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4hv.org :: Forums :: General Science and Electronics
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Driving a led with mains.

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Ash Small
Tue Oct 15 2013, 06:34PM
Ash Small Registered Member #3414 Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245
New information:

So it looks like the most efficient way to drive LED's from a 240V mains supply is something like this:


1381862042 3414 FT157237 Simulation


The inductors are 1000uH, and are 79 turns on T-225A-26 (2 1/4" OD yellow/white), resistance should be around 200 milli-ohms each, maybe less. I've used 3x330uF 100V in series to simulate ~100uF, 300V. The other capacitor is 10uF. Diodes are MUR320, although I think MUR340 may be a better option. LED's are AOT-2015. The circuit draws ~23mA from the mains. That's around five watts for 80 LED's, which is ~60mW per LED.

EDIT:
The following screenshots are a comparison of using two 1000uH inductors, compared to using one 10 Ohm resistor.

This is the steady state for both cases, showing current through D1 and the LED's:

1381868709 3414 FT1630 Simulation2


This is just current through the LED's. Current is a couple of milliamps higher with inductors. Does this mean 10% more light?

1381868756 3414 FT1630 Simulation3


This is the transient state, where it is switched on mid-cycle. The inductor solution also performs a bit better here, although the resistor probably performs adequately, and could possibly be replaced with a lesser value one, depending on what peak current you find acceptable:

1381868803 3414 FT1630 Simulation4


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Ash Small
Sat Oct 19 2013, 03:17PM
Ash Small Registered Member #3414 Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245
Well, I've ordered 1000 LED's from China for £10 including postage from here: Link2

I expect to blow some up, so I'm not going to use expensive, high efficiency LED's for initial testing.

They'll take at least a week to get here, so in the meantime I'll wind and test the inductors.

Maybe I should start another thread?

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Dr. Slack
Tue Jan 19 2016, 03:18PM
Dr. Slack Registered Member #72 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:29AM
Location: UK St. Albans
Posts: 1659
So did the light ever get built?

My 50 LED string is still going strong at 20mA, having now clocked up 2.7 million device hours without failure.
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Ash Small
Wed Jan 20 2016, 09:18AM
Ash Small Registered Member #3414 Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245
Not yet all hell broke loose here after that then two years of total chaos. I'm only just picking up the pieces now. All the components including the inductors I wound are around here somewhere, but the 'scope was put away and hasn't come out since.

I'm catching up with paperwork at the moment, and as soon as we get some better weather I need to drop the front subframe out of the Saab, my priorities, as far as electronics goes, at the moment are getting the control box for my lathe finished,which is also waiting for warmer weather. I also have a valve amp coming together slowly. I have most of the parts, but want to use interstage transformers to reverse the phase. Looks like if I want 1:1 ratio I'll have to wind my own, which is another job I need to get in the shed to do.
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BigBad
Wed Jan 20 2016, 05:20PM
BigBad Registered Member #2529 Joined: Thu Dec 10 2009, 02:43AM
Location:
Posts: 600
Actually, many commercially available LEDs use a circuit like this.

Poundland LED light teardown:



Circuit diagram at 13:26
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Dr. Slack
Thu Jan 21 2016, 09:55PM
Dr. Slack Registered Member #72 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:29AM
Location: UK St. Albans
Posts: 1659
Nice teardown video. It's good to see my drive circuit being used in commercial products, give or take a resistor. Interesting to see they've picked practically the same voltages as well.
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kimbomba
Fri Feb 05 2016, 02:55PM
kimbomba Registered Member #3854 Joined: Fri Apr 29 2011, 03:45AM
Location: Mexico
Posts: 95
My simple circuit with rectifier bridge, capacitor and resistor to limit the initial inrush current worked pretty well. However, in order to drive a high power led, the capacitor needs to be big (and expensive). I was thinking of using an electrolytic (of appropriate voltage) after the bridge rectifier. Do you think is going to work?
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Dr. Slack
Sun Feb 07 2016, 10:42AM
Dr. Slack Registered Member #72 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:29AM
Location: UK St. Albans
Posts: 1659
kimbomba wrote ...

... in order to drive a high power led, the capacitor needs to be big (and expensive). I was thinking of using an electrolytic (of appropriate voltage) after the bridge rectifier. Do you think is going to work?

No. Think about what happens once the cap is charged with DC.

This dropper technique only works well when the LED voltage is in the 50% to 75% of the supply voltage range. Only low current high voltage LEDs make sense for this configuration.
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