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Registered Member #1643
Joined: Mon Aug 18 2008, 06:10PM
Location:
Posts: 1039
So... I never exactly wound a 36awg tesla coil at this length... I've wound 30awg in the past, 4.5" x 28" and that was easy. flawless construction. Well, now im trying to wind a 4.5" x 24" with 36awg and its not going well at all.
it was flawless, but as it sat it just loosen on its own i guess. I cant tension the wire anymore or it'll break because its so thin. I usually wind a coil with one hand on the wire feeding it with tension, and the other hand holding a credit card to push the wire to the rest of the coil. this lets me wind a 24awg awg coils in like .. 10 minutes... but 36awg, its just hell.
Looking for tips... on how to do this. My only last option is double sided sticky tape and wind it ever so damn slowly turn by turn, by hand...
Registered Member #1643
Joined: Mon Aug 18 2008, 06:10PM
Location:
Posts: 1039
Because i need low resonance frequency to run CM300's. my 12 x 48" coil is too large for 120V system. So thats going to a 480V 3 phase system, and the 120V setup is plugging into this coil
Registered Member #15
Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
You shouldn't need 36 AWG. I use 30 AWG with my CM300 coils on a 4.5" phenlic coilform. I think the winding length is about 20" and the topload an 18" toroid.
Registered Member #7267
Joined: Tue Oct 16 2012, 12:16AM
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 407
Yeah I don't think there is any 'easy' way to wind 36awg without frustration. My advice would be to just wind slowly, use your fingernail instead of credit card which might be too thick, and tape your winding down every inch and a half or so (length-wise, not turn-wise) to keep it in place.
Registered Member #1643
Joined: Mon Aug 18 2008, 06:10PM
Location:
Posts: 1039
Gotcha..so best way is slowly turn by turn..spreading it out over the course of a week or so.. Hmm. doable. probably aim for 1-2 inches a day and brush on poly using a rag. then i can go over it at the end with epoxy resin.
Well, I didnt redo the hole thing. the first 1/3 of the screen is what i did yesterday. the 2/3 is what I did today. What i wound today has not 1 flaw in it, I found the issue was pushing the windings to the side was causing a winding to force the one next to it, up. so, used my nails, lightly pushing over, as the other hand spun it. Spool was kept tension using 2 clamps on both sides pushed against it. 2.25 inches done today, not a single issue. :)
Registered Member #7267
Joined: Tue Oct 16 2012, 12:16AM
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 407
Looks pretty good!
But using a rag to apply poly? Are you sure that's a good idea? I've never tried it so I can't say one way or another but that sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Why not use a foam brush or All natural fine bristle brush meant for poly?
Registered Member #152
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 03:36PM
Location: Czech Rep.
Posts: 3384
I think the problem could be in bad material of the coil form or temperature changes during the winding process. For me, hard PVC always worked best for the coil forms (it can be bought in the form of orange drainage pipes here).
Registered Member #1643
Joined: Mon Aug 18 2008, 06:10PM
Location:
Posts: 1039
The rag isnt bad, This poly is designed for as it says "Whip On Polyurethane" just dip and lightly touch the windings. just a very very very thin layer of poly thats enough to hold the windings on, but if i really needed to for whatever reason, is enough to unwind still.
So the first 1.5" of the coil has a few sections where its lifted just because that was the old area, not worried about those, as long as the rest is flawless, I'll be happy. specially up at the higher voltage ends.
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Needing some winding help...
