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Registered Member #3414
Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245
Patrick wrote ...
the chemistry for aircraft and spacecraft, is always poisonous it seems.
I was going to suggest Phosphoric in my first reply above, but thought maybe others would suggest alternatives.
While you need to be wary of phosphoric fumes (it polymerizes at ~210 C, but I think all fumes attack the respiratory tract), it's actually safe to drink at concentrations up to ~10%W/W. It's also an 'ingredient' in Coca Cola (other phosphoric bearing cola's are available).
I've not tried using Coke as a flux yet, but regularly use it for removing oxides from copper and plated terminals (especially on old meters).
I usually use the sugar free ones, as they are less sticky once you boil the water off, and concentrate the phosphoric, etc.
Registered Member #135
Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 12:06AM
Location: Anywhere is fine
Posts: 1735
Yea it does fume quite a bit when soldering, so do your best to do it in a well ventilated area. Don't solder with this stuff in your room.
Also, it really attacks concrete, but you could use a syringe to apply the acid without much trouble.
When I was soldering, it was on a big moisture trap, so I was spritzing the stainless here and there, it got all over the concrete, and etched, spotting the concrete and made a large mess!
So big stuff... do it in a pan of some sort.
Small stuff shouldn't be too much of a problem, but definately solder outside, it is smelly stuff when hot.
Registered Member #509
Joined: Sat Feb 10 2007, 07:02AM
Location:
Posts: 329
Hazmatt_(The Underdog) wrote ...
Yea it does fume quite a bit when soldering, so do your best to do it in a well ventilated area. Don't solder with this stuff in your room.
Also, it really attacks concrete, but you could use a syringe to apply the acid without much trouble.
When I was soldering, it was on a big moisture trap, so I was spritzing the stainless here and there, it got all over the concrete, and etched, spotting the concrete and made a large mess!
So big stuff... do it in a pan of some sort.
Small stuff shouldn't be too much of a problem, but definately solder outside, it is smelly stuff when hot.
Jeeze, sounds like a whole barrel of fun.
Maybe a small capacitive discharge welder to weld the nickel wires to the pads may be a solution. Or surplus ultrasonic wirebonder from ebay maybe?
Registered Member #162
Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 10:25AM
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 3140
Soldering nickel is a lot easier than soldering stainless steel ... using the common liquid flux for pcb soldering that we use at work, mild physical abrasion (I use a glass-fibre pen because I use it a lot during pcb repair) wet with flux and separately tin each side with lead-free solder (lead/tin solder will work but why add another metal?) (e.g. lead-tin solder can 'dissolve' pads off ceramic substrates - don't ask !) with more liquid flux solder the two parts together. (I always use fluxcleaner and detergent to wash pcbs after soldering etc but it's not required with 'modern' fluxes which do not leave an acid residue.)
The bulk ingredient of the liquid flux is IPA and I suspect that the flux in the core of the solder is enough, using alcohol or any other liquid to exclude air / prevent surface oxidation ... only a guess.
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Soldering of Nickel?
