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Registered Member #9252
Joined: Fri Jan 04 2013, 06:27AM
Location: Andromeda
Posts: 253
1n4007 work. The idiot at the shop tells me 1n4007 are uf4007. He tells me that these 1n4007 i have are more powerful than normal ones. and again please answer and give me the best flyback you had., the numbers. That gave best arc results and lived longest
Registered Member #3114
Joined: Sat Aug 14 2010, 08:33AM
Location:
Posts: 608
Arcingnoob wrote ...
and again please answer
Sigh :/
Arcingnoob wrote ... and give me the best flyback you had., the numbers. That gave best arc results and lived longest
I dont think a lot of people order them and have certain types, A good flyback is very robust and usally comes from an old tv the bigger the tv the better the fbt IMO.
Registered Member #9252
Joined: Fri Jan 04 2013, 06:27AM
Location: Andromeda
Posts: 253
Booth of my flybacks that are dead. are from 29 inch a tv. a Panasonic and a Toshiba btw what if a flyback does not have focus or screen? XD that weird flyback i asked the dude in the shop he said it has a external focus and screen Also if i short out the hv ground pin to one of the pins. there is a large electrostatic field That makes all the cat hair on the clothes and my hair literally stand up straight and there is lots of wind. and a tickly feeling tho the flyback is dc...... so the question is for zvs. is focus and screen a must?
Registered Member #3414
Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245
The best DC flybacks I've had came from early Hitachi colour TV's, from the '60's or early '70's. I think they were 26 or 27 inch screens.
My Grandad bought a dozen of them, had one himself, and rented the others to his tenants. He gave me three faulty ones to 'play' with in the mid to late '70's. The flyback from one is in my HF TIG welder, I think.
Next best were from early computer monitors, I'm not sure if they were CGA, EGA or VGA (Thay may even have been earlier than CGA). This is based on my experience using the single transistor driver, with feedback coil, before I had a 'scope, so I don't know what the frequency was, but they are designed to be run at different frequencies, CGA is 15.7kHz, EGA is 35kHz and VGA is 31.5kHz, so maybe I just 'got lucky' and hit the right frequency.
Generally, the bigger the core, the bigger the sparks.
Registered Member #9252
Joined: Fri Jan 04 2013, 06:27AM
Location: Andromeda
Posts: 253
With bigger you mean . larger in size. in the airgap etc. or in thickness.. cause this weird flyback has a thin core. or a nice thick core. the flyback that gave me some hot arcs had really thick cores. about a 1.5 cm thick.
THIS! everything is just the same. The wire. the body. even the piece of rubber that is about to fall on top of the core. THere was also a piece of metal that held the core togeather.. and was held with 2 screws by another piece of metal. but mine does not have those pins near the core. Neither such a large core. same grey piece the wire comes out from. same black wire. it had the part number code but while i was cleaning it from it's long journey the paper faded into thin air.
But that flyback gives me thin purple arcs that ain't long. btw that thing will be heavily abused XD.and what are those core spacers? that thing should tolerate. some... 500 to 600 watts muahahahahahah :)
but for the testing am running some 300 to 200 watts. till stuff works properly and i unleash my secret weapon. 5 atx power supplies :D! tho some of them does not spit 12 volts. So i am expecting some 55 volts.
The questions are. Why am i getting the thin arcs. Why is the film foil capacitor heating. Why are the wires starting for some reason to melt. The primary. they never did before. And the whole circuit is made with them.. Even the input wires. and they stay nice n cool. but on the fbt. they melt the hot glue that holds them -_- am gonna try enamel wire tho. also are shorter wires better? the entire circuit is made with coily wires. Normal long wires that are coiled. With that i do not mean the diodes. resistors. zenners. etc like the diodes when they are connected to the middle pin of the mosfets :3 . etc one 490 40 watts resistors to its position using another wire. etc.
Tho this is still a prototype. Once i perfect this circuit . Imma re make it with 4 mosfets, 4 irfp250. connected like maxii and high1voltage1rules does. with thier dual and triple mosfet zvs. with no resistors. but if i must use a resistor for stability. btw they are going in parallel. Tell me the value and wattage of that resistor. tho thier cause am out of moneys. and i will get a nice amount of money next week. and will use nice port connectors. and once it s done i will add 2 cooling fans. and the 4 mosfets. each on his own heat sink. and i will stop using those black heat sinks. i will use some really gigantic heat sinks i found in a power supply anyway and you have the specs of the driver. i will run it on some 55 volts. and if the flyback must be in oil Then fine i guess. But the negative pin is grounded..
So the questions are..
Answer the question about the core at the beginning
why are the wires heating. why wont the flyback that is similar to the one in the picture give good results will the driver by capable of 55 volts? the capacitor is 1 uf. will buying a new flyback be better. The resistance and wattage of the resistors for paralleling mosfets.
Thanks. i hope this to be the final question. Before i make the real circuit in meh mind. And impress you guys :D,.
Registered Member #3414
Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245
Arcingnoob wrote ...
With bigger you mean . larger in size. in the airgap etc. or in thickness.. cause this weird flyback has a thin core. or a nice thick core. the flyback that gave me some hot arcs had really thick cores. about a 1.5 cm thick.
I mean thicker, more 'cross sectional area'.
As far as the heating in the wire is concerned, two things could be causing it, first, if the core is getting hot it will presumably be heating the wires, second, if the wires aren't thick enough they will be heating. You could try twisting three or four pieces of the wire you have together, and then using them to wind the primary, and see if that helps. You could also try using a coil former that leaves some space between the core and the primary, so that oil can circulate easier for better cooling.
Registered Member #4074
Joined: Mon Aug 29 2011, 06:58AM
Location: Australia
Posts: 335
Arcingnoob wrote ...
With bigger you mean . larger in size. in the airgap etc. or in thickness.. cause this weird flyback has a thin core. or a nice thick core. the flyback that gave me some hot arcs had really thick cores. about a 1.5 cm thick.
THIS! everything is just the same. The wire. the body. even the piece of rubber that is about to fall on top of the core. THere was also a piece of metal that held the core togeather.. and was held with 2 screws by another piece of metal. but mine does not have those pins near the core. Neither such a large core. same grey piece the wire comes out from. same black wire. it had the part number code but while i was cleaning it from it's long journey the paper faded into thin air.
But that flyback gives me thin purple arcs that ain't long. btw that thing will be heavily abused XD.and what are those core spacers? that thing should tolerate. some... 500 to 600 watts muahahahahahah :)
but for the testing am running some 300 to 200 watts. till stuff works properly and i unleash my secret weapon. 5 atx power supplies :D! tho some of them does not spit 12 volts. So i am expecting some 55 volts.
The questions are. Why am i getting the thin arcs. Why is the film foil capacitor heating. Why are the wires starting for some reason to melt. The primary. they never did before. And the whole circuit is made with them.. Even the input wires. and they stay nice n cool. but on the fbt. they melt the hot glue that holds them -_- am gonna try enamel wire tho. also are shorter wires better? the entire circuit is made with coily wires. Normal long wires that are coiled. With that i do not mean the diodes. resistors. zenners. etc like the diodes when they are connected to the middle pin of the mosfets :3 . etc one 490 40 watts resistors to its position using another wire. etc.
Tho this is still a prototype. Once i perfect this circuit . Imma re make it with 4 mosfets, 4 irfp250. connected like maxii and high1voltage1rules does. with thier dual and triple mosfet zvs. with no resistors. but if i must use a resistor for stability. btw they are going in parallel. Tell me the value and wattage of that resistor. tho thier cause am out of moneys. and i will get a nice amount of money next week. and will use nice port connectors. and once it s done i will add 2 cooling fans. and the 4 mosfets. each on his own heat sink. and i will stop using those black heat sinks. i will use some really gigantic heat sinks i found in a power supply anyway and you have the specs of the driver. i will run it on some 55 volts. and if the flyback must be in oil Then fine i guess. But the negative pin is grounded..
So the questions are..
Answer the question about the core at the beginning
why are the wires heating. why wont the flyback that is similar to the one in the picture give good results will the driver by capable of 55 volts? the capacitor is 1 uf. will buying a new flyback be better. The resistance and wattage of the resistors for paralleling mosfets.
Thanks. i hope this to be the final question. Before i make the real circuit in meh mind. And impress you guys :D,.
Ok then, I'll see if I can give some useful answers:
With core sizes, the bigger it is the more power you can squeeze through it. By bigger, I mean more material. Thicker cross section, and physically larger in size. The air gap is related to performance in flyback mode operation. The ZVS is a push-pull driver, so an airgap is not required.
The film/foil capactior is probably heating up because you are operating it beyond it's RMS current rating. Use a bank of caps to distribute the current evenly across multiple strings.
The primary of the transformer is heating up because there is a large high frequency AC current flowing. Due to the skin effect not all of the conductors' cross section is carrying current evenly - there is a much higher current density on the surface. This is not an issue with the DC bus wiring. The solution is to use slightly thicker wire.
Also: It is very important to use very short connections in order to minimise unwanted inductance, which can cause havoc in oscillators like the ZVS. Every component should be as close as possible, with as little excess wiring as possible - no coily wires! Coiling the excess cable increases parasitic inductance considerably!
In order to run more reliably you really should consider swapping the diodes for something with an Ultra Fast recovery speed.
When you are paralleling MOSFETs, I believe it is best to have an individual gate resistor for each transistor. For example, if you have 3 MOSFETs is parallel, then you should have 3 470 Ohm gate resistors - one for each FET. However, I'm not entirely sure what is the best practice in this case. Also, I'm not sure of the wattage, for 55V I'd imagine 10W should be more than sufficient (my own ZVS uses 5W gate resistors on 28VDC and runs cold).
It is impossible to tell why the flyback isn't performing well - it could have suffered some minor internal damage, the driver could be operating at a frequency that this particular flyback isn't liking, or the ZVS tank circuit simply isn't pushing enough power.
I honestly have no idea if your circuit will survive 55VDC.
Registered Member #9252
Joined: Fri Jan 04 2013, 06:27AM
Location: Andromeda
Posts: 253
Hello. Thank you for your answers :o Very clear and informative :P. Also in the zvs circuit there are already 470 ohm resistors connected to the mosfets gates.. Also am paralleling 2 irfp250. so i have to have considering these 2 mosfets. to have 2 470 ohm resistors and it is like. mosfet gate. 470 ohm resistor. mosfet gate. zenner 10 kohm resistor. and 470 ohm resistor. uh and all the 470 ohms he has are 40 watt. should be better tho :D also i plan to use port connectors. to reduce the wires. and each of the 4 total mosfets on its own large heat sink. with 2 fans cooling the system. but i am worried about the half watt zenner. it is only half a watt. :P also if anyone is able to judge the voltage capability of my setup.. And the person in the shop says. uf4007 and 1n4007 are the same and my 1n4007 has 1n4007 MIC written on it. thats how i knew it was a 1n4007. also what are the dangers of not using a resistor per gate. will the mosfets just boom. or fry. or burn. also is it best to use those mosfets i am using now. or buy new ones anyway. i suspect new ones :P
so now to do list. lots of port connectors. 4 irfp250s. 470 ohm resistors. if needed. also guess it is best to buy 3 more mmc caps. and series 2. and then make 2 stacks which have double the voltage and half capacity. then parallel them for the old capacity with double voltage. and ofcourse a flyback :P. i will get the core of this thing tho. it has one hell of a airgap. one could fit 5000 turns in there. and will a resistor on the output of the fbt help make the diodes live longer.. And if i cannot make them live longer. i found out that when a flyback diodes goes bad the performance drops alot. and if i place some 30 1n4007 in series on the output of the flyback. then will the diodes in the flyback live longer? and also i discovered that when i wind the 5+5 or 4+4. i cover them with lots of hot glue. so much tat he winding is white. you cannot see anything under it. so anyways once i removed it cause of the heating. i found that the wires were arcing.. to the core. and that was happening for some. half a hour of operation. So like thousands of volts going BACK through the circuit and it is intact. amazing XD
So the questions. will the 30 1n4007 on the output of the flyback help the internal diodes not to die. and the parts i mentioned above.. the questions about the resistors. and if anyone thinks that i am able to operate the circuit at 55 volts. And just try to give me something like the color of the flyback to buy. i seen green , red , white, black . white and black. Etc. i also heared that white flybacks are better than normal ones. and if it is white with some green spot that is better. also if it white and black it has a internal multiplier. uhh Just give me advices on flybacks. not just buy the biggest. Those biggest die in a few days.and i am not capable of getting a old tv.. :/
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The zvs is working
