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Registered Member #3900
Joined: Thu May 19 2011, 08:28PM
Location:
Posts: 600
Hey guys, when working with a few different adhesives, I can never find the perfect one. Sometimes too little strength, sometimes too brittle. It goes on. So what are your favorite and least favorite adhesives and the reason why? I will start:
Favorite: epoxy -really, really strong! Easily holds a mot laminations together at 6hz hum.
Not so much: epoxy again -too strong! The epoxy they use to hold ferrite EE's together was so strong I had to crack it another place, then glue it back together with more epoxy
My favorite is rice. When no other adhesive is around, which in my house, all the glue seems to dissapear whenever I need it, I like to use rice for simple craftwork. Rice is a staple in my diet, so there is always rice around to use if I need its sticky applications.
My least favorite is probably superglue or that Billy Mays oxy something. One makes your hands stick together and feel like plastic, the other just sticks to every imaginable surface and is impossible to remove. I guess that would be an advantage if you are a really, really, really neat person... I guess the pitchman was right... it was meant for heavy duty stuff, not trying to get a screw to stick to a piece of PVC that you intended to use for an adjustable spark gap. 1% of the stuff got on the desired areas. The rest got on my hands, clothes, little work area paper, and the areas outside of that, and some of my face. Not fun.
Registered Member #2628
Joined: Fri Jan 15 2010, 12:23AM
Location:
Posts: 627
HighVoltageChick wrote ...
My favorite is rice. When no other adhesive is around, which in my house, all the glue seems to dissapear whenever I need it, I like to use rice for simple craftwork. Rice is a staple in my diet, so there is always rice around to use if I need its sticky applications.
Glues designed for 3 year olds are hardly practical or usefull for anything.
Some usefull glues I've been using:
1:1 part JB weld: strong epoxy for rigging together plastics and light metals, easy to machine and work with, with a 1:1 mixing ratio its hard to get wrong even if youre in a hurry.
Clear silicone gasket sealant (Any brand): while an excellent low temperture gasket sealant, it is flexible to work with, moderate strenth and yields a fairly high dialectric simular to hot glue. I've been using it for HV mostly.
Cyanoacrylates (Any brand): Not durable as epoxy, but excellent when you need something to harden and stay in place within a few seconds, where other glues will take at least 15-30 minutes to harden and much longer to cure.
UScomposites 635 thin epoxy risin / 3:1 part epoxy hardner: Strong low viscosity epoxy, great for laminating iron cores, fiberglass, and holding together aluminum parts.
There are some others that I use, but those are the most frequent ones. I use those mostly for electrical and automotive purposes.
Registered Member #3888
Joined: Sun May 15 2011, 09:50PM
Location: Erie, PA
Posts: 649
liquid superglue. loctite or krazy brand. very nice to have around. pisses me off about halfway through the container though, when the nozzle starts getting clogged up and you have to unclog it all the time.
5 minute epoxy and epoxy putty. If these can't hold it together then you need to switch to a design that utilizes bolts.
toluene/polystyrene mix works surprisingly well for coil windings. Haven't tested it extensively though.
least favorites: gel superglue. never works on anything. hot glue. always looks like crap. epoxies with weird ratios (had to use something like 10:128 optical grade in the lab before. Always turned out great, but required pipettes and a digital scale every time I had to glue glass together)
Registered Member #72
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:29AM
Location: UK St. Albans
Posts: 1659
My favourite is hot melt glue.
It holds real fast. It can gap-fill (if you are delicate and have a few minutes). It will stick to heat-shrink tube, for sealing leaded components and splices. It has high dielectric strength. It is repositionable with a hot-air gun or soldering iron, and you can do interesting things with it held under spring pressure in an oven at 100C. There are many different grades. There are some very agressive ones which make a better fist than the standard cheap EVA of sticking the more difficult plastics. There's even a heat-proof type which air cures after application.
I don't have a least favourite glue. To paraphrase a (possibly originally Scandewegian) saying "There's no such thing as a bad glue, just trying to use it in the wrong circumstances".
A few years ago I thought PVA was an advance over hide glue, as the latter is weak and brittle. I then learnt that string instruments are built with hide glue precisely because the glue line can be fractured to allow access to the inside of the instrument for servicing, without damage to the wood.
Registered Member #538
Joined: Sun Feb 18 2007, 08:33PM
Location: Finland
Posts: 181
Dr. Slack wrote ...
My favourite is hot melt glue.
It holds real fast. It can gap-fill (if you are delicate and have a few minutes). It will stick to heat-shrink tube, for sealing leaded components and splices. It has high dielectric strength. It is repositionable with a hot-air gun or soldering iron, and you can do interesting things with it held under spring pressure in an oven at 100C. There are many different grades. There are some very agressive ones which make a better fist than the standard cheap EVA of sticking the more difficult plastics. There's even a heat-proof type which air cures after application.
I don't have a least favourite glue. To paraphrase a (possibly originally Scandewegian) saying "There's no such thing as a bad glue, just trying to use it in the wrong circumstances".
A few years ago I thought PVA was an advance over hide glue, as the latter is weak and brittle. I then learnt that string instruments are built with hide glue precisely because the glue line can be fractured to allow access to the inside of the instrument for servicing, without damage to the wood.
I have never managed to get hot melt glue hold in ANYTHING, is there some trick or what? No matter where and how you use it it just basically seems to fall off.
Registered Member #72
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:29AM
Location: UK St. Albans
Posts: 1659
Dago wrote ...
Dr. Slack wrote ...
My favourite is hot melt glue.
...
I have never managed to get hot melt glue hold in ANYTHING, is there some trick or what? No matter where and how you use it it just basically seems to fall off.
Most plastics will not bond well with the standard EVA formulation (the only type you'll find on the high street), you get a tack at best on PVC, especially the plasticised type as the plasticiser leaches into the bond interface. However, if you glue-cover a splice on PVC cable, then heat-shrink a sleeve down onto it, the mechanical support and reflow action make a permanent and AFAIK waterproof and corona-proof bond.
You need to get the glue/material interface up to fusion temperature for long enough to bond, so bonding to metals usually requires you to reflow it with hot air or in the oven. Cardboard or wood, or PCB material, tends to have a low enough thermal capacity so it will work straight from the gun.
I must confess that I invested in a light industrial, rather than domestic, glue gun, and several different formulations of stick. It's only when you go online to a specialist supplier that you find the different types and what they are designed for. Again, it's choose the right glue for the job, and the readily available stuff is not great for soft plastics.
One job where it's absolutely the right stuff is attaching a steel-mesh plaster corner to a brick wall before plastering. I've seen the professionals do it, slap a few dobs of plaster on the wall, expertly press the corner into exactly the right place, and of course the plaster is by now just the right consistency to hold it there without moving. Can I do it? Can I heck. So I attach it with a few tacks of hot-melt glue which holds in seconds. Then I measure it, see how far from true it is, then spend the next 30 minutes with a hot-air gun re-melting each tack and nudging the corner around until it's in the right place.
BTW. don't use it to hold or insulate components in a power application. They tend to get hot, and what happens when the glue gets hot?
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