Welcome
Username or Email:

Password:


Missing Code




[ ]
[ ]
Online
  • Guests: 91
  • Members: 0
  • Newest Member: omjtest
  • Most ever online: 396
    Guests: 396, Members: 0 on 12 Jan : 12:51
Members Birthdays:
All today's birthdays', congrats!
Capper (60)
cereus (73)
Mcanderson (43)


Next birthdays
11/06 dan (37)
11/06 rchydro (64)
11/06 CapRack (30)
Contact
If you need assistance, please send an email to forum at 4hv dot org. To ensure your email is not marked as spam, please include the phrase "4hv help" in the subject line. You can also find assistance via IRC, at irc.shadowworld.net, room #hvcomm.
Support 4hv.org!
Donate:
4hv.org is hosted on a dedicated server. Unfortunately, this server costs and we rely on the help of site members to keep 4hv.org running. Please consider donating. We will place your name on the thanks list and you'll be helping to keep 4hv.org alive and free for everyone. Members whose names appear in red bold have donated recently. Green bold denotes those who have recently donated to keep the server carbon neutral.


Special Thanks To:
  • Aaron Holmes
  • Aaron Wheeler
  • Adam Horden
  • Alan Scrimgeour
  • Andre
  • Andrew Haynes
  • Anonymous000
  • asabase
  • Austin Weil
  • barney
  • Barry
  • Bert Hickman
  • Bill Kukowski
  • Blitzorn
  • Brandon Paradelas
  • Bruce Bowling
  • BubeeMike
  • Byong Park
  • Cesiumsponge
  • Chris F.
  • Chris Hooper
  • Corey Worthington
  • Derek Woodroffe
  • Dalus
  • Dan Strother
  • Daniel Davis
  • Daniel Uhrenholt
  • datasheetarchive
  • Dave Billington
  • Dave Marshall
  • David F.
  • Dennis Rogers
  • drelectrix
  • Dr. John Gudenas
  • Dr. Spark
  • E.TexasTesla
  • eastvoltresearch
  • Eirik Taylor
  • Erik Dyakov
  • Erlend^SE
  • Finn Hammer
  • Firebug24k
  • GalliumMan
  • Gary Peterson
  • George Slade
  • GhostNull
  • Gordon Mcknight
  • Graham Armitage
  • Grant
  • GreySoul
  • Henry H
  • IamSmooth
  • In memory of Leo Powning
  • Jacob Cash
  • James Howells
  • James Pawson
  • Jeff Greenfield
  • Jeff Thomas
  • Jesse Frost
  • Jim Mitchell
  • jlr134
  • Joe Mastroianni
  • John Forcina
  • John Oberg
  • John Willcutt
  • Jon Newcomb
  • klugesmith
  • Leslie Wright
  • Lutz Hoffman
  • Mads Barnkob
  • Martin King
  • Mats Karlsson
  • Matt Gibson
  • Matthew Guidry
  • mbd
  • Michael D'Angelo
  • Mikkel
  • mileswaldron
  • mister_rf
  • Neil Foster
  • Nick de Smith
  • Nick Soroka
  • nicklenorp
  • Nik
  • Norman Stanley
  • Patrick Coleman
  • Paul Brodie
  • Paul Jordan
  • Paul Montgomery
  • Ped
  • Peter Krogen
  • Peter Terren
  • PhilGood
  • Richard Feldman
  • Robert Bush
  • Royce Bailey
  • Scott Fusare
  • Scott Newman
  • smiffy
  • Stella
  • Steven Busic
  • Steve Conner
  • Steve Jones
  • Steve Ward
  • Sulaiman
  • Thomas Coyle
  • Thomas A. Wallace
  • Thomas W
  • Timo
  • Torch
  • Ulf Jonsson
  • vasil
  • Vaxian
  • vladi mazzilli
  • wastehl
  • Weston
  • William Kim
  • William N.
  • William Stehl
  • Wesley Venis
The aforementioned have contributed financially to the continuing triumph of 4hv.org. They are deserving of my most heartfelt thanks.
Forums
4hv.org :: Forums :: General Science and Electronics
« Previous topic | Next topic »   

Wireless Power (Magnetic Induction)

 1 2 3 
Move Thread LAN_403
Marko
Sat Feb 04 2012, 06:19PM
Marko Registered Member #89 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145
Hi thomas,

Do you still get a simply shorted power supply? It's very hard to guess what else could be wrong this way.

What capacitance, voltage and other markings are on your capacitors? They should be MKP/FKP.

Also make sure you don't have a faulty feedback diode or something! If mosfets and diodes are OK and the circuit is properly wired I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't work, even if the caps aren't the best.

Make sure to measure the mosfets and diodes before installing them in order to avoid installing dead parts!

Apart from that, you should at least replace the steel bolts you screwed the copper pipe onto your board with brass, or best just solder the pipe directly if possible. Having steel in HF current path is intolerable as it introduces lots of resistance.

Marko

Back to top
Legit_bacon
Sat Feb 04 2012, 07:07PM
Legit_bacon Registered Member #4034 Joined: Thu Jul 28 2011, 10:41PM
Location: somewhere in the Southern hemisphere
Posts: 138
Why are your MOSFETS not bolted onto your heatsinks?
They'll blow very quickly not being properly attached to there heatsinks.
Back to top
THOMAS18
Sun Feb 05 2012, 07:41PM
THOMAS18 Registered Member #4267 Joined: Fri Dec 16 2011, 09:17AM
Location:
Posts: 16
I had just put the board together and took the picture before screwing them down and soldering to the board. Its just as the mosfets osscillate I assumed they work working, iv added my circuit above as a Jpeg but cannot upload the eagle files. It must be something small I'm overlooking but I really can't figure it out. Thanks for the help. Marko could you list the parts you used? As I'm fairly sure I ordered all exact components, incase my first attempt was due to tollerances of components. Kind regards
Back to top
THOMAS18
Wed Feb 08 2012, 11:30AM
THOMAS18 Registered Member #4267 Joined: Fri Dec 16 2011, 09:17AM
Location:
Posts: 16
Iv, now soldered straight to board as suggested still no joy.
My 12v 4a supply drops from 12v dc to around 6v dc when board is connected and i enable switch.
The mosfets Oscillate but no power to a LED, with 15 wraps of wire around.
Or an exactly the same size 15cm diamater copper pipe atatched to an 24v bulb with a 6.8nf capacitor.
Iv drawn a simple version of my receiver to check its correct, basically just a bulb, capacitor and copper attatched?
Back to top
THOMAS18
Wed Feb 08 2012, 11:31AM
THOMAS18 Registered Member #4267 Joined: Fri Dec 16 2011, 09:17AM
Location:
Posts: 16
Recicver rough pic
1328700718 4267 FT133231 Receiver
Back to top
Conundrum
Wed Feb 08 2012, 07:52PM
Conundrum Registered Member #96 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:37PM
Location: CI, Earth
Posts: 4061
Interesting re. steel versus brass.

Also plating silver onto the copper then spraying it with varnish would substantially decrease resistance at RF due to the skin effect. (see Radcom magazine)

Putting the capacitors inside the coil is not likely to cause a problem, they don't contain ferrous metal.

That coil looks like it would work in the high tens of MHz, IIRC the frequency used is 13.56 MHz (ISM band) but this does mean that the resonance of the receiver has to be spot on.

A good way to test these is to use a 'scope and connect its input to the baseband output of a TV tuner with a ramp generator on the sweep input and the tuner's 33V rail so that it can be used as a primitive spectrum analyser.

This allows even a cheap 'scope to show a large chunk of the RF spectrum on its small display.

See Link2

Obviously what you will pick up is the 2nd or 3rd harmonic of the baseband 13.56 MHz but you can easily calibrate your analyser using a 4 pin can oscillator.

Pickup coil can be a simple short wire antenna...

-A
Back to top
THOMAS18
Mon Mar 05 2012, 12:15PM
THOMAS18 Registered Member #4267 Joined: Fri Dec 16 2011, 09:17AM
Location:
Posts: 16
I really am at a loss with this circuit at the minute. Iv tried different coild, and mosfets. I even tried to simply replicate marko s design, yet i still couldnt get a functioning circuit.
Does any one have a working board they could send at a price?
This could really help my troubleshooting.

Kind regards

Nathan
Back to top
THOMAS18
Tue Mar 27 2012, 02:06PM
THOMAS18 Registered Member #4267 Joined: Fri Dec 16 2011, 09:17AM
Location:
Posts: 16
Iv finally done this now!!
Could anyone help me with some cool suggested receiver circuits.

KInd Regards
1332857160 4267 FT133231 Imag0504
Back to top
Conundrum
Wed Mar 28 2012, 06:52AM
Conundrum Registered Member #96 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:37PM
Location: CI, Earth
Posts: 4061
Hi, btw double post..
Suggested receiver I'd like to try, use my and other's "reverse biased LED" tuner circuit.
the plan here is that you have an array of blue LEDs which are encapsulated in resin to keep out the light, in inverse parallel.
The centre point of each LED/capacitor string is connected via a blocking inductor to a variable DC source, this then allows tuning of the resonant point with varying distance etc.

Not sure if this approach has even been attempted but logic suggests it should work.
I would add some protection on the LEDs though as they don't like excess forward or reverse voltage.
5V max it seems would be a sensible limit.


-A
Back to top
THOMAS18
Wed Mar 28 2012, 12:49PM
THOMAS18 Registered Member #4267 Joined: Fri Dec 16 2011, 09:17AM
Location:
Posts: 16
Is this similar to a varactor diode?
Would you have time to sketch up a simple diagram on paint or something similar?
As I don't quite get the circuit ?
Kind regards
Back to top
 1 2 3 

Moderator(s): Chris Russell, Noelle, Alex, Tesladownunder, Dave Marshall, Dave Billington, Bjørn, Steve Conner, Wolfram, Kizmo, Mads Barnkob

Go to:

Powered by e107 Forum System
 
Legal Information
This site is powered by e107, which is released under the GNU GPL License. All work on this site, except where otherwise noted, is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.5 License. By submitting any information to this site, you agree that anything submitted will be so licensed. Please read our Disclaimer and Policies page for information on your rights and responsibilities regarding this site.