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Registered Member #4302
Joined: Mon Jan 02 2012, 12:05PM
Location:
Posts: 8
Edit: I build it and it works great! Thank you all very much for your help!
Hello and thank you for reading this!
I am new to this forum so please excuse me if I'm doing something wrong :)
At the moment I am trying to build a ZVS driver for my flyback transformer:
I found this very easy to understand scheme:
But now, I am not sure where to solder the connections. So, I've added some red circles in the scheme where I think I should not solder. Can you tell me if that is right what I have done?
Another question: In that scheme you also see a blue wire with teh text: '0V'. I think this is the negative wire for the power source, right? And, how many amps min/max should I pump into it?
Registered Member #3943
Joined: Sun Jun 12 2011, 05:24PM
Location: The Shire, UK
Posts: 552
You don't solder those parts circled in red, to save space in the diagram the author had to cross the wires. The wires that should be connected are colour coded.
The 0v refers to the negative connection of your power supply/batteries. This is also sometimes referred to as "ground" in electronics (I found this confusing when I first started out).
The current (amps) that this circuit will draw depends on what voltage you are inputting, for example on 12v input mine only draws around 4.5 amps but on 36v input it can draw around 10-13 amps easily. Just make sure your supply can source 8 amps minimum or else the arcs will not be as big. If possible start with a low voltage like 12v first to test it and check things are not heating up. The arcs will be small but it will let you get used of the safety aspects too as on 36v mine can produce some pretty big arcs.
Also the most important thing is to use a PVC pipe of some sort to draw arcs with. NEVER touch the flyback HV wire with your bare hands.
Registered Member #4302
Joined: Mon Jan 02 2012, 12:05PM
Location:
Posts: 8
Sulaiman wrote ...
Correct, do not solder at the points you circled.
Connect the resonant capacitor (0.68uF MKP) to the transistors Drain (centre pin or mounting base) with as short leads/wires as practical.
Alex1M6 wrote ...
You don't solder those parts circled in red, to save space in the diagram the author had to cross the wires. The wires that should be connected are colour coded.
The 0v refers to the negative connection of your power supply/batteries. This is also sometimes referred to as "ground" in electronics (I found this confusing when I first started out).
The current (amps) that this circuit will draw depends on what voltage you are inputting, for example on 12v input mine only draws around 4.5 amps but on 36v input it can draw around 10-13 amps easily. Just make sure your supply can source 8 amps minimum or else the arcs will not be as big. If possible start with a low voltage like 12v first to test it and check things are not heating up. The arcs will be small but it will let you get used of the safety aspects too as on 36v mine can produce some pretty big arcs.
Also the most important thing is to use a PVC pipe of some sort to draw arcs with. NEVER touch the flyback HV wire with your bare hands.
Registered Member #3943
Joined: Sun Jun 12 2011, 05:24PM
Location: The Shire, UK
Posts: 552
Jantjuh wrote ...
Sulaiman wrote ...
Correct, do not solder at the points you circled.
Connect the resonant capacitor (0.68uF MKP) to the transistors Drain (centre pin or mounting base) with as short leads/wires as practical.
Alex1M6 wrote ...
You don't solder those parts circled in red, to save space in the diagram the author had to cross the wires. The wires that should be connected are colour coded.
The 0v refers to the negative connection of your power supply/batteries. This is also sometimes referred to as "ground" in electronics (I found this confusing when I first started out).
The current (amps) that this circuit will draw depends on what voltage you are inputting, for example on 12v input mine only draws around 4.5 amps but on 36v input it can draw around 10-13 amps easily. Just make sure your supply can source 8 amps minimum or else the arcs will not be as big. If possible start with a low voltage like 12v first to test it and check things are not heating up. The arcs will be small but it will let you get used of the safety aspects too as on 36v mine can produce some pretty big arcs.
Also the most important thing is to use a PVC pipe of some sort to draw arcs with. NEVER touch the flyback HV wire with your bare hands.
Hope this helps.
Thank you both VERY much! Great information.
Regards,
E.P.
No problem ( :
When you get it working upload a video of it to youtube and post that in this thread if you can.
Registered Member #4302
Joined: Mon Jan 02 2012, 12:05PM
Location:
Posts: 8
Alex1M6 wrote ...
Jantjuh wrote ...
Sulaiman wrote ...
Correct, do not solder at the points you circled.
Connect the resonant capacitor (0.68uF MKP) to the transistors Drain (centre pin or mounting base) with as short leads/wires as practical.
Alex1M6 wrote ...
You don't solder those parts circled in red, to save space in the diagram the author had to cross the wires. The wires that should be connected are colour coded.
The 0v refers to the negative connection of your power supply/batteries. This is also sometimes referred to as "ground" in electronics (I found this confusing when I first started out).
The current (amps) that this circuit will draw depends on what voltage you are inputting, for example on 12v input mine only draws around 4.5 amps but on 36v input it can draw around 10-13 amps easily. Just make sure your supply can source 8 amps minimum or else the arcs will not be as big. If possible start with a low voltage like 12v first to test it and check things are not heating up. The arcs will be small but it will let you get used of the safety aspects too as on 36v mine can produce some pretty big arcs.
Also the most important thing is to use a PVC pipe of some sort to draw arcs with. NEVER touch the flyback HV wire with your bare hands.
Hope this helps.
Thank you both VERY much! Great information.
Regards,
E.P.
No problem ( :
When you get it working upload a video of it to youtube and post that in this thread if you can.
Sure, I will!
Tonight I'm going to buy the parts for it and try to build it. I'll edit this post with a YouTube video.
Oh, by the way, I've got this heatsink (with some thermal paste)(x2): I'm pretty sure that will do the job right, won't it?
Registered Member #3943
Joined: Sun Jun 12 2011, 05:24PM
Location: The Shire, UK
Posts: 552
Jantjuh wrote ...
Alex1M6 wrote ...
Jantjuh wrote ...
Sulaiman wrote ...
Correct, do not solder at the points you circled.
Connect the resonant capacitor (0.68uF MKP) to the transistors Drain (centre pin or mounting base) with as short leads/wires as practical.
Alex1M6 wrote ...
You don't solder those parts circled in red, to save space in the diagram the author had to cross the wires. The wires that should be connected are colour coded.
The 0v refers to the negative connection of your power supply/batteries. This is also sometimes referred to as "ground" in electronics (I found this confusing when I first started out).
The current (amps) that this circuit will draw depends on what voltage you are inputting, for example on 12v input mine only draws around 4.5 amps but on 36v input it can draw around 10-13 amps easily. Just make sure your supply can source 8 amps minimum or else the arcs will not be as big. If possible start with a low voltage like 12v first to test it and check things are not heating up. The arcs will be small but it will let you get used of the safety aspects too as on 36v mine can produce some pretty big arcs.
Also the most important thing is to use a PVC pipe of some sort to draw arcs with. NEVER touch the flyback HV wire with your bare hands.
Hope this helps.
Thank you both VERY much! Great information.
Regards,
E.P.
No problem ( :
When you get it working upload a video of it to youtube and post that in this thread if you can.
Sure, I will!
Tonight I'm going to buy the parts for it and try to build it. I'll edit this post with a YouTube video.
Oh, by the way, I've got this heatsink (with some thermal paste)(x2): I'm pretty sure that will do the job right, won't it?
You will need two separate heatsinks as to not connect the MOSFET drains together. The MOSFET's metal back is electrically connected to the middle pin and two sharing a heatsink will short them out, plus that heatsink only has enough room and mounting holes for one anyway.
When you buy your components just ask for the cheapest heatsink they sell as they do not get hot in this circuit. Then you can use this heatsink with one MOSFET and the one you bought with the other.
Registered Member #4302
Joined: Mon Jan 02 2012, 12:05PM
Location:
Posts: 8
Alex1M6 wrote ...
Jantjuh wrote ...
Alex1M6 wrote ...
Jantjuh wrote ...
Sulaiman wrote ...
Correct, do not solder at the points you circled.
Connect the resonant capacitor (0.68uF MKP) to the transistors Drain (centre pin or mounting base) with as short leads/wires as practical.
Alex1M6 wrote ...
You don't solder those parts circled in red, to save space in the diagram the author had to cross the wires. The wires that should be connected are colour coded.
The 0v refers to the negative connection of your power supply/batteries. This is also sometimes referred to as "ground" in electronics (I found this confusing when I first started out).
The current (amps) that this circuit will draw depends on what voltage you are inputting, for example on 12v input mine only draws around 4.5 amps but on 36v input it can draw around 10-13 amps easily. Just make sure your supply can source 8 amps minimum or else the arcs will not be as big. If possible start with a low voltage like 12v first to test it and check things are not heating up. The arcs will be small but it will let you get used of the safety aspects too as on 36v mine can produce some pretty big arcs.
Also the most important thing is to use a PVC pipe of some sort to draw arcs with. NEVER touch the flyback HV wire with your bare hands.
Hope this helps.
Thank you both VERY much! Great information.
Regards,
E.P.
No problem ( :
When you get it working upload a video of it to youtube and post that in this thread if you can.
Sure, I will!
Tonight I'm going to buy the parts for it and try to build it. I'll edit this post with a YouTube video.
Oh, by the way, I've got this heatsink (with some thermal paste)(x2): I'm pretty sure that will do the job right, won't it?
You will need two separate heatsinks as to not connect the MOSFET drains together. The MOSFET's metal back is electrically connected to the middle pin and two sharing a heatsink will short them out, plus that heatsink only has enough room and mounting holes for one anyway.
When you buy your components just ask for the cheapest heatsink they sell as they do not get hot in this circuit. Then you can use this heatsink with one MOSFET and the one you bought with the other.
Ty! I haven't thought about that :o I didn't know the drain pin was connected to the metal back side :p
I'll just ask for a heatsink (two of them (separate)) which will fit on those MOSFET's and throw these old things away :)
Registered Member #3943
Joined: Sun Jun 12 2011, 05:24PM
Location: The Shire, UK
Posts: 552
Jantjuh wrote ...
Alex1M6 wrote ...
Jantjuh wrote ...
Alex1M6 wrote ...
Jantjuh wrote ...
Sulaiman wrote ...
Correct, do not solder at the points you circled.
Connect the resonant capacitor (0.68uF MKP) to the transistors Drain (centre pin or mounting base) with as short leads/wires as practical.
Alex1M6 wrote ...
You don't solder those parts circled in red, to save space in the diagram the author had to cross the wires. The wires that should be connected are colour coded.
The 0v refers to the negative connection of your power supply/batteries. This is also sometimes referred to as "ground" in electronics (I found this confusing when I first started out).
The current (amps) that this circuit will draw depends on what voltage you are inputting, for example on 12v input mine only draws around 4.5 amps but on 36v input it can draw around 10-13 amps easily. Just make sure your supply can source 8 amps minimum or else the arcs will not be as big. If possible start with a low voltage like 12v first to test it and check things are not heating up. The arcs will be small but it will let you get used of the safety aspects too as on 36v mine can produce some pretty big arcs.
Also the most important thing is to use a PVC pipe of some sort to draw arcs with. NEVER touch the flyback HV wire with your bare hands.
Hope this helps.
Thank you both VERY much! Great information.
Regards,
E.P.
No problem ( :
When you get it working upload a video of it to youtube and post that in this thread if you can.
Sure, I will!
Tonight I'm going to buy the parts for it and try to build it. I'll edit this post with a YouTube video.
Oh, by the way, I've got this heatsink (with some thermal paste)(x2): I'm pretty sure that will do the job right, won't it?
You will need two separate heatsinks as to not connect the MOSFET drains together. The MOSFET's metal back is electrically connected to the middle pin and two sharing a heatsink will short them out, plus that heatsink only has enough room and mounting holes for one anyway.
When you buy your components just ask for the cheapest heatsink they sell as they do not get hot in this circuit. Then you can use this heatsink with one MOSFET and the one you bought with the other.
Ty!
I'll just ask for a heatsink which will fit on those MOSFET's and throw these old things away :)
Remember they will need separate heatsinks unless you can buy some thermal pads (if you do use your multimeter to make sure they are not electrically conductive on the drains, which is the middle pin).
Registered Member #4302
Joined: Mon Jan 02 2012, 12:05PM
Location:
Posts: 8
Alex1M6 wrote ...
Jantjuh wrote ...
Alex1M6 wrote ...
Jantjuh wrote ...
Alex1M6 wrote ...
Jantjuh wrote ...
Sulaiman wrote ...
Correct, do not solder at the points you circled.
Connect the resonant capacitor (0.68uF MKP) to the transistors Drain (centre pin or mounting base) with as short leads/wires as practical.
Alex1M6 wrote ...
You don't solder those parts circled in red, to save space in the diagram the author had to cross the wires. The wires that should be connected are colour coded.
The 0v refers to the negative connection of your power supply/batteries. This is also sometimes referred to as "ground" in electronics (I found this confusing when I first started out).
The current (amps) that this circuit will draw depends on what voltage you are inputting, for example on 12v input mine only draws around 4.5 amps but on 36v input it can draw around 10-13 amps easily. Just make sure your supply can source 8 amps minimum or else the arcs will not be as big. If possible start with a low voltage like 12v first to test it and check things are not heating up. The arcs will be small but it will let you get used of the safety aspects too as on 36v mine can produce some pretty big arcs.
Also the most important thing is to use a PVC pipe of some sort to draw arcs with. NEVER touch the flyback HV wire with your bare hands.
Hope this helps.
Thank you both VERY much! Great information.
Regards,
E.P.
No problem ( :
When you get it working upload a video of it to youtube and post that in this thread if you can.
Sure, I will!
Tonight I'm going to buy the parts for it and try to build it. I'll edit this post with a YouTube video.
Oh, by the way, I've got this heatsink (with some thermal paste)(x2): I'm pretty sure that will do the job right, won't it?
You will need two separate heatsinks as to not connect the MOSFET drains together. The MOSFET's metal back is electrically connected to the middle pin and two sharing a heatsink will short them out, plus that heatsink only has enough room and mounting holes for one anyway.
When you buy your components just ask for the cheapest heatsink they sell as they do not get hot in this circuit. Then you can use this heatsink with one MOSFET and the one you bought with the other.
Ty!
I'll just ask for a heatsink which will fit on those MOSFET's and throw these old things away :)
Remember they will need separate heatsinks unless you can buy some thermal pads (if you do use your multimeter to make sure they are not electrically conductive on the drains, which is the middle pin).
I still have some thermal pads but I think I'll just buy 2 seperate heatsinks because this will also keep the heat down. (Right?)
Now we're on the subject, my multi-meter is giving a constant beep when I switch it on. Does this mean there is a fuse dead? If so, I'm going to buy some fuses tonight too :p
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ZVS driver for a flyback
