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Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
Having been told for countless years like many of you, that you cant bond PE or PP (the poly sisters).
going out and around making purchases for the usual glues, adhesives and epoxies we HV'ers need, i noticed the Plastix-Bonding system for special plastics. intriuged i recently decided to see if they're any good.
mostly i need mylar bonded to, so there have been the occasions when i thought " Dam it'd be nice if i had some glue that would work on mylar/PE/PP ..." but continued to muddle around with a soldering iron melting crap together.
Now lets see if PP/PE/Mylar can be glued without heat!
i have aquired the following:
Product card...
Instructions, though no time for set or cure?
Yellow tube appears by sight and smell to be normal CA, the "Activator" is actually a marker which is used to cover the mating surfaces.
On glossy Mylar it seems to not work at all, it just peels off. I will next try to scuff and de-gloss the joining surfaces. (Mylar to Mylar)
On the instruction side, it says to use the "activator" on both surfaces to be joined, then wait one minute, after that one minute apply the CA tube stuff. having done this 5 times offer the last hour, i see that if one were to wait less than 40 seconds, the CA turns foggy white and gooey within 1-3 seconds. So that activator must be doing something, even after its no longer visible. (The activator disapears in 5-10 seconds.)
Ok well the polyethylene samples are definatley bonded (PE to PE), took quite a bit of force to get them apart, they deformed before seperating leaving tears and stretch marks on both halves, so it will definatly bond PE.
EDIT: more mylar test strips...
Initial sample. ( Scuffed mylar to mylar bond. )
sample after pull test. note the torn edge near right top, this picece was still attached to the other half strip.
Results and lessons learned from above pics: First, in the pull test it took 100+ lbs without any detectable creeping or peeling, turns out to be very strong.... Second, it took very little force to peel them apart, seems very weak in this mode.
Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
2Spoons wrote ...
Usual method of bonding PP or PE involves surface oxidation, using an oxidising flame or sulphuric acid
Ive heard of the flame+chemistry method, never done it though, because once your using a flame, you might as well just thermal weld the PE like a hot glue gun deal.
The problem with solvent, is that PP and PE are pretty much chemical resistant, (which is both a blessing and a curse.) However, acrylic and polycarbonate can easily be solvent bonded with water-thin solvent stuff (i use the Tap Plastics stuff.)
Registered Member #3215
Joined: Sun Sept 19 2010, 08:42PM
Location:
Posts: 780
RF welding is a nice technique for such plastics
a RF field of say 40~ish Mhz at a few watts between two flat electrodes will solder such plastics, but I only saw that for acrylics
maybe it would work nicely with such plastics, but you would have to find the right frequency (you may have to tune your osc)
a device quite useful for that would be an acousto-optic modulator RF module, which you can have for cheap (approx 50$ sometimes) but the best is to use an RF mosfet with a well defined passband
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A Simple Experiment: Bonding PE and PP.
