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4hv.org :: Forums :: Tesla Coils
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Best Way To Drive A Brick?

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Daniel Kramnik
Sat Sept 03 2011, 09:25PM Print
Daniel Kramnik Registered Member #3885 Joined: Sun May 15 2011, 12:47AM
Location: Newton, Massachusetts, United States
Posts: 94
Hello 4hv!

I'm currently building a small-sized (~110kHz) IGBT brick coil using 2 phases of a CM200TU-12F 3 phase brick to form a full bridge. My driver is Steve Ward's DRSSTC-1 driver with primary feedback and OCD. I was supposed to have first light yesterday, but unfortunately that didn't happen because my brick driver didn't work. I am using a PN bridge almost identical to the one Steve uses on the output of his universal driver between the UCCs and the GDT, except with IRFZ24/IRF9Z24 MOSFETs and a 20uF 250V Aerovox blocking cap with no parallel resistor.

I know that my controller works because I get the correct output on the UCCs when I apply feedback and interrupter signals using a signal generator. However, when I added the PN driver, its outputs were just constant voltages and eventually, something caused my UCCs to die.

Can anyone help me troubleshoot my brick driver, and is there a better way I could be doing this?

I've attached my board file, the left side is N-channel and the right side is P-channel FETs. The top left header is for input from the UCCs, the bottommost header is for power, and the rightmost header is the output. I was originally planning to use two paralleled 10uF ceramic capacitors and a damping resistor like Steve Ward did, but I soon discovered that I didn't have those components, so I shorted those areas on the board with jumpers and mounted the blocking cap on the side of the driver.

I can post the schematic if it would help.

1315085141 3885 FT0 Pn Driver 4hv
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Dr. ISOTOP
Sat Sept 03 2011, 09:57PM
Dr. ISOTOP Registered Member #2919 Joined: Fri Jun 11 2010, 06:30PM
Location: Cambridge, MA
Posts: 652
Post error
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dude_500
Sat Sept 03 2011, 09:58PM
dude_500 Registered Member #2288 Joined: Wed Aug 12 2009, 10:42PM
Location: Cambridge, MA
Posts: 179
The pinout on your P-Fet is still wrong in this board picture, you need to swap pins 2 and 3. The output should be the connection of both pin-2's (which thus means you need no sil-pad on the heatsinks, assuming each half-bridge has its own heatsink.
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Daniel Kramnik
Sat Sept 03 2011, 10:43PM
Daniel Kramnik Registered Member #3885 Joined: Sun May 15 2011, 12:47AM
Location: Newton, Massachusetts, United States
Posts: 94
Oops! Here's the right brd file:
 2
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