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Waterproof Case for Camera

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LAN_403

Chip Fixes

Fri Jun 17 2011, 02:34AM

Registered Member #3781 Joined: Sat Mar 26 2011, 02:25AM
Location:
Posts: 701

I'm making a waterproof camera case for a friend so he can film underwater, the camera is 6" x 5" x 4" So I think I will just enclose it in a clear plastic box. The part I need help with is that there has to be a way to remove the camera from the box, IE a lid. However, I have no idea how to make the lid watertight when it's closed. Any suggestions would be great!

Adam Munich

Fri Jun 17 2011, 03:18AM

Registered Member #2893 Joined: Tue Jun 01 2010, 09:25PM
Location: Cali-forn. i. a.
Posts: 2242

Use a neoprene rubber seal and a tight clasp.

But just so you know, as you bring that box deeper and deeper underwater the pressure builds on it quite dramatically. The last thing you want is to have it pop!

Nicko

Fri Jun 17 2011, 04:48AM

Registered Member #1334 Joined: Tue Feb 19 2008, 04:37PM
Location: Nr. London, UK
Posts: 615

Camp Badger wrote ...

I'm making a waterproof camera case for a friend so he can film underwater, the camera is 6" x 5" x 4" So I think I will just enclose it in a clear plastic box. The part I need help with is that there has to be a way to remove the camera from the box, IE a lid. However, I have no idea how to make the lid watertight when it's closed. Any suggestions would be great!

How deep do you need to go? Approx every 10 meters/33 feet is 1 atm.

I made one a couple of years ago to be good to 15 meters (built it to survive 30mtrs, used it to 15) - few points - acrylic is brittle so I used polycarbonate (lexan), be careful you don't knock it about. Every 10mtrs is 14 psi, so reasonably decent material strength is needed - I used 5mm polycarbonate welded (not glued) with "PolyWeld". Make sure weld surfaces are completely flat and when you flood the joint that there are no air bubbles (joint should look completely clear) - 3mm would probably have been enough but is not wide enough to accept the seals I had available on its edge.

Use proper seals - note that avoiding holes in the case is a very very good start - I ended up using reed switches on the inside and sliding magnets on the outside.

Pressure test it before using it in anger (obviously) - note that seals need to be replace regularly. Also, I added weights to make it just positively buoyant with the camera in it - you want to to float to the surface if you let go, but not be a pain to keep still underwater.

Chip Fixes

Fri Jun 17 2011, 01:17PM

Registered Member #3781 Joined: Sat Mar 26 2011, 02:25AM
Location:
Posts: 701

7 meters max on the depth, thanks for the tips. The magnet idea is a good one, I was just going to cut out a hole and cover is with a few square pieces of rubber glove so the buttons are easily reachable. As for the weights I was thinking of adding some handles so you could just tie a small bag of rocks to the camera. Thus it's not heavy on land and you can customize how heavy you want the case in water. If I use a neoprene seal, how often should it be replaced?

Ash Small

Fri Jun 17 2011, 01:49PM

Registered Member #3414 Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245

I'd suggest using silicon sealant (or, preferably, a polyurathane sealant like Sikaflex 221) on one face of the seal, and smear some grease on the other face.

This does make replacing the seal a bit more complicated (especially if you use Sikaflex), but it should provide a better seal.

(Sikaflex 221 isn't cheap, though)

Sulaiman

Fri Jun 17 2011, 05:40PM

Registered Member #162 Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 10:25AM
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 3140

An underwater digital still camera is about Â£50 ($80)
and an underwater hd video camera is Â£120 ($200)
or less.

Probably better to buy a purpose-made underwater (typ. 10m) camera.

How about hd video camera built into goggles , Â£39
Or a really well thought out kit for Â£100 (USD 160)

For home-made you could consider 'disposable' underwater cases,
Pre-made glued-together boxes with one end open, a matching end, and glue.
Peel off the plastic film that protects the face that the camera 'looks' through,
Get the camera in 'filming' mode,
put it in the box,
glue the end on,
film,
smash the box (or pry it open) to retrieve the camera.

a few boxes would probably be cheaper than a ruined camera.
(and they may be re-usable after cleaning etc.)

could build a multi-LED illuminator & battery in while at it.
(at 7m, illumination - quite red - will be very useful)

P.S. can't use 'superglue' due to the fumes 'condensing'
careful what glue/solvent/grease you use - vapours etc.

IamSmooth

Sun Jun 19 2011, 02:21AM

Registered Member #190 Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 12:00AM
Location:
Posts: 1567

why not just buy one? I have one for my Canon Elph and it is great.

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