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Registered Member #30
Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
The power budget for plastic fibre, as Father Jack would say, is "Arse!"
Glass fibre has losses measured in dB per kilometre, with the plastic stuff it's dB per metre. It is really only useful for links shorter than 10 meters.
I gave up messing with it. I now buy ready terminated ST patch cords, which are cheap and easy to get because they're used in computer networking, and use them with TX/RX modules like the HFBR1412/2412.
I think if you glue a plastic fibre to an LED, or stick it into a hole, the performance will be crap. The light sprays from the LED chip in all directions, and it needs the lens on the end of the package to direct it. Gluing and drilling will wreck this. I'd get a 3mm LED with a clear package and narrow beam angle and just hold it against the end of the fibre.
Registered Member #1376
Joined: Wed Mar 05 2008, 08:31AM
Location:
Posts: 49
Thanks for you informative replies!
For my purposes there will need to be a length of about 0.5m of fiber optic cable down which the light needs to travel.
Here is a link to one method that does not use a drill to connect the LED's:
This link is also about drilling, although it is about lighting for models, but the idea could still apply: ,1495041
If I could, I would invest in a ready terminated cable, but unfortunately they will not provide the correct LED nm. By doing it my self it will be cheaper too, hopefully.
I have tried drilling an LED and connecting up the optic cable without the glue yet, and there was an output, frosted plastic and all.
I suppose, for maximum light transfer, the LED's would ideally be pulsed. I have found this link helpful:
The circuit designs for the infrared LED's with low voltage drops implement common components in a simple circuit.
Many thanks for you suggestions and tip, they are very helpful!
Registered Member #311
Joined: Sun Mar 12 2006, 08:28PM
Location:
Posts: 253
Ash Small wrote ...
Plasma wrote ...
This link is also about drilling, although it is about lighting for models, but the idea could still apply: ,1495041
This link suggests using CA to glue the fibres to the LED.
CA presumably means Cyano-Acrylate, or superglue.
Conundrum posted above that superglue is not suitable, and he found out the hard way.
Cyanoacrylates are not all created equal.. cheap stuff is a waste of time. As it is possible to get clear joints between acrylic sheets using CA, it would seem possible to get a clear joint between fibre and LED, however it may not be the best choice.
Registered Member #2261
Joined: Mon Aug 03 2009, 01:19AM
Location: London, UK
Posts: 581
To maximise the amount of light coupled to a fibre I once sanded the front of an LED away until I could see with a powerful eye loupe that I was as close as I could get to the LED chip without breaking its bonding wire. This required using rough sand paper to remove the plastic quickly and fine grades and polish to (several times) make the front of the led optically clear enough to follow the approach to the bonding wire. I finished with careful polishing and held a plastic optical fibre coaxially to it with some heat shrink tubing. With the led chip close to the fibre entrance it coupled significantly more light than usual. With a laser you can get even more light in though.
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