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Registered Member #3093
Joined: Mon Aug 09 2010, 11:40PM
Location:
Posts: 68
I've finished the groundwork on building my class e coil, and it's working, but not well enough. My coil is based off a modified version of steve's class E sstc. I used a sign wave function generator to match the primary and secondary separate, and i think it's around 600Khz. (I still need to calibrate it) I am currently able to get 4 cm streamers with only 15 volts ac input, but i don't think i have it optimized. Now, i would be able to tune it if i could see what was going on on my scope, but there is too much noise appearing. Here is what i get when connecting two common ground points to my scope: And the coil so far: thanks. ~will
Registered Member #2390
Joined: Sat Sept 26 2009, 02:04PM
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Posts: 381
Tune the coil when everything is off. Set up your signal generator with the hot lead on the ground wire from the secondary and the other lead not connected. Take a six inch piece of the wire you wound the coil with, strip about 1/4 inch of the varnish off and put it in the clamp on one of your oscilloscope probes. Place that probe about 8 to 10 inches away from your secondary (wire standing straight up like an antenna) and power up the signal generator. Nothing related to the coil will be connected to ground. You should be able to see the freq displayed on the signal generator on your scope. Then all you need to do is sweep the frequencies until you see the amplitude on the scope spike. You will see a dramatic increase on the scope. You can change the coupling as well and watch the scope. This should get you in tune. After, if you want to scope while its running. Some use a metal sheet under the coil with the probe attached. 4cm arcs sounds pretty close to where you will be with that coil, especially at the 15 volts.
Registered Member #3093
Joined: Mon Aug 09 2010, 11:40PM
Location:
Posts: 68
Tune the coil when everything is off. Set up your signal generator with the hot lead on the ground wire from the secondary and the other lead not connected. Take a six inch piece of the wire you wound the coil with, strip about 1/4 inch of the varnish off and put it in the clamp on one of your oscilloscope probes. Place that probe about 8 to 10 inches away from your secondary (wire standing straight up like an antenna) and power up the signal generator. Nothing related to the coil will be connected to ground. You should be able to see the freq displayed on the signal generator on your scope. Then all you need to do is sweep the frequencies until you see the amplitude on the scope spike. You will see a dramatic increase on the scope. You can change the coupling as well and watch the scope. This should get you in tune. After, if you want to scope while its running. Some use a metal sheet under the coil with the probe attached. 4cm arcs sounds pretty close to where you will be with that coil, especially at the 15 volts.
Thanks. Cool, i'll try tuning it like that. What i was originally doing was using the dual LED technique, looking for the peak brightness with an open ended connection to the coil, and then leaving the function generator on that setting, then connecting it to the primary and resonant cap, (which i had already approximated) and found where i could get the LED's darkest. See, on the page,it shows some optimized waveforms for operation, and i just wanted to know if i was getting the most out of my work. On another part of my quest for longer arcs, does anyone know what kind of household equipment would have a good 24 - 30 volt ac transformer? I'm operating on like a $20 budget, using only leftover parts if possible. And would the type of capacitor i'm using make any difference in performance? Currently, i'm relying on a little brown dipped Metal-Poly (I think) computer monitor cap rated for 250 volts.
Registered Member #2390
Joined: Sat Sept 26 2009, 02:04PM
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Posts: 381
Caps shouldn't be an issue unless they can not handle the pulse you are sending it. You have probably heard the term "pulse rated". If it can't, it will surely let you know! The easiest thing for you to do would probably be getting the proper tune. I can't say for sure, but... I think most guys will whip up a secondary and match up a primary to the secondary's fres. One thing to take into consideration for that transformer you're looking for will be the current it can produce on the secondary side. Do a little math and see what you need for current capability then i would search for something that can do a little more. For example (say i need 2 amps, i would get a xmfr that can put out 3 to 4 amps.) That way you can cut out a little of the heat problem. MOST OF ALL, make sure everything is safe. Never exceed the voltage rating on your oscilloscope, and remember, them little clips are connected to earth!! Also! When you have proper tune, changing the coupling may tweak the class-e waveform a bit and throw you off track. Just scope it when everything is running like you want it to. Mine only took a few minor adjustments and class-e is right on!
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Help on tuning my class e solid state tesla coil.
