If you need assistance, please send an email to forum at 4hv dot org. To ensure your email is not marked as spam, please include the phrase "4hv help" in the subject line. You can also find assistance via IRC, at irc.shadowworld.net, room #hvcomm.
Support 4hv.org!
Donate:
4hv.org is hosted on a dedicated server. Unfortunately, this server costs and we rely on the help of site members to keep 4hv.org running. Please consider donating. We will place your name on the thanks list and you'll be helping to keep 4hv.org alive and free for everyone. Members whose names appear in red bold have donated recently. Green bold denotes those who have recently donated to keep the server carbon neutral.
Special Thanks To:
Aaron Holmes
Aaron Wheeler
Adam Horden
Alan Scrimgeour
Andre
Andrew Haynes
Anonymous000
asabase
Austin Weil
barney
Barry
Bert Hickman
Bill Kukowski
Blitzorn
Brandon Paradelas
Bruce Bowling
BubeeMike
Byong Park
Cesiumsponge
Chris F.
Chris Hooper
Corey Worthington
Derek Woodroffe
Dalus
Dan Strother
Daniel Davis
Daniel Uhrenholt
datasheetarchive
Dave Billington
Dave Marshall
David F.
Dennis Rogers
drelectrix
Dr. John Gudenas
Dr. Spark
E.TexasTesla
eastvoltresearch
Eirik Taylor
Erik Dyakov
Erlend^SE
Finn Hammer
Firebug24k
GalliumMan
Gary Peterson
George Slade
GhostNull
Gordon Mcknight
Graham Armitage
Grant
GreySoul
Henry H
IamSmooth
In memory of Leo Powning
Jacob Cash
James Howells
James Pawson
Jeff Greenfield
Jeff Thomas
Jesse Frost
Jim Mitchell
jlr134
Joe Mastroianni
John Forcina
John Oberg
John Willcutt
Jon Newcomb
klugesmith
Leslie Wright
Lutz Hoffman
Mads Barnkob
Martin King
Mats Karlsson
Matt Gibson
Matthew Guidry
mbd
Michael D'Angelo
Mikkel
mileswaldron
mister_rf
Neil Foster
Nick de Smith
Nick Soroka
nicklenorp
Nik
Norman Stanley
Patrick Coleman
Paul Brodie
Paul Jordan
Paul Montgomery
Ped
Peter Krogen
Peter Terren
PhilGood
Richard Feldman
Robert Bush
Royce Bailey
Scott Fusare
Scott Newman
smiffy
Stella
Steven Busic
Steve Conner
Steve Jones
Steve Ward
Sulaiman
Thomas Coyle
Thomas A. Wallace
Thomas W
Timo
Torch
Ulf Jonsson
vasil
Vaxian
vladi mazzilli
wastehl
Weston
William Kim
William N.
William Stehl
Wesley Venis
The aforementioned have contributed financially to the continuing triumph of 4hv.org. They are deserving of my most heartfelt thanks.
Registered Member #89
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145
As I said, I have too much trouble even finding the same paper over again, and all glossy papers I've used left the coating of gloss on the board.
I like the magazine paper method the most of this, does any of you have pics of the work with it? The only problem I can think of it is that being colored it might be difficult to adjust for double sided boards.
Registered Member #1643
Joined: Mon Aug 18 2008, 06:10PM
Location:
Posts: 1039
I use high gloss photopaper. I just print it 'heavy'and iron it to the copper clad. White paper does stick, but if you soak it in water for a few, it will easily rub off by hand. I've been using this method with ferric chloride for over 20 boards. Even double sided. Love it!
Registered Member #3610
Joined: Thu Jan 13 2011, 03:29AM
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 506
Marko wrote ...
As I said, I have too much trouble even finding the same paper over again, and all glossy papers I've used left the coating of gloss on the board.
I like the magazine paper method the most of this, does any of you have pics of the work with it? The only problem I can think of it is that being colored it might be difficult to adjust for double sided boards.
Marko
Usually there are large areas of lightly colored printing so this hasn't been a problem so far. I use a bright flashlight pointed up through the paper to align it and tape together a little sandwich.
If you find your boards are getting pitted, try shaking the toner cartridge or fiddle with the printer settings to get it to lay down more toner. The printer/toner is the greatest variable.
Registered Member #1643
Joined: Mon Aug 18 2008, 06:10PM
Location:
Posts: 1039
Also you can touch up any spots that didn't transfer ith nail polish. Works great, only con is it takes a little more steel wool scrubbing to get the nail polish off, compared to the toner.
Registered Member #89
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145
Killa-X wrote ...
I use high gloss photopaper. I just print it 'heavy'and iron it to the copper clad. White paper does stick, but if you soak it in water for a few, it will easily rub off by hand. I've been using this method with ferric chloride for over 20 boards. Even double sided. Love it!
Hi,
So you don't even bother removing the gloss after soaking (when dried your exposed surfaces are still white?)
I did this at first but my boards would end up terrible. I found scraping all the gloss instrumental for a good pcb etch. But one thing I suspect now is that it might be due to acid damage to the toner/gloss. If the pcb is left in muriatic acid for half an hour heavy damage will start to appear, and after a few hours entire print will come cleanly off it.
Should I perhaps try ferric chloride for this reason? It might be a slower and messier etch but worth it if I don't have to scrub the gloss. It might still such, though. Anybody tried comparing different etchants with the technique?
Also you can touch up any spots that didn't transfer ith nail polish.
I do that too. The fact that I keep nail polish in my room puzzles people nevertheless.
Registered Member #3610
Joined: Thu Jan 13 2011, 03:29AM
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 506
Marko wrote ...
Killa-X wrote ...
I use high gloss photopaper. I just print it 'heavy'and iron it to the copper clad. White paper does stick, but if you soak it in water for a few, it will easily rub off by hand. I've been using this method with ferric chloride for over 20 boards. Even double sided. Love it!
Hi,
So you don't even bother removing the gloss after soaking (when dried your exposed surfaces are still white?)
I did this at first but my boards would end up terrible. I found scraping all the gloss instrumental for a good pcb etch. But one thing I suspect now is that it might be due to acid damage to the toner/gloss. If the pcb is left in muriatic acid for half an hour heavy damage will start to appear, and after a few hours entire print will come cleanly off it.
Should I perhaps try ferric chloride for this reason? It might be a slower and messier etch but worth it if I don't have to scrub the gloss. It might still such, though. Anybody tried comparing different etchants with the technique?
Also you can touch up any spots that didn't transfer ith nail polish.
I do that too. The fact that I keep nail polish in my room puzzles people nevertheless.
Marko
Try the magazine paper, it works well. I tried the sticker backing last night after someone mentioned it and it does indeed work well, the paper just fell off coming out of the laminator and left the toner on the board. The magazine paper is almost as good and a lot cheaper though.
Registered Member #1643
Joined: Mon Aug 18 2008, 06:10PM
Location:
Posts: 1039
Marko, when i use gloss paper the only stuff left behind is white paper. All i do is soak it and rub it off with my hand. NOTHING is left on the board except black traces..comes off very easy in my case.
Registered Member #3610
Joined: Thu Jan 13 2011, 03:29AM
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 506
Perhaps he's overheating it and melting the plastic? A clothes iron is too hot, I used one in the past but got widely inconsistent results. A $30 laminator with a simple modification worked FAR better.
Registered Member #1643
Joined: Mon Aug 18 2008, 06:10PM
Location:
Posts: 1039
James wrote ...
Perhaps he's overheating it and melting the plastic? A clothes iron is too hot, I used one in the past but got widely inconsistent results. A $30 laminator with a simple modification worked FAR better.
I iron using the highest settings. Linen or whatever. I usually press the iron down on the clad for 15 seconds straight, nose rube the board, 15 seconds again, nose rub, 15 again, done.
This site is powered by e107, which is released under the GNU GPL License. All work on this site, except where otherwise noted, is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.5 License. By submitting any information to this site, you agree that anything submitted will be so licensed. Please read our Disclaimer and Policies page for information on your rights and responsibilities regarding this site.
The toner transfer method.
