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Registered Member #1334
Joined: Tue Feb 19 2008, 04:37PM
Location: Nr. London, UK
Posts: 615
Mads Barnkob wrote ...
nixie
I did not find this entirely worthy of its own project thread as it was a little project I puzzled with during the Christmas holidays :)
Its pretty simple with dividers using the 50Hz wall socket frequency to drive 6 counters for each their tube. What took the longest was to drill the holes and solder all the components in and make the enclosure..
Couple of points - ZM1020s strike at about 160VDC, not the 200-300V you state in the article - Genrally, 180VDC is deemed about right. They maintain at about 140VDC with a max of 2mA anode current.
So, with your 200V secondary you'll need a minimum of 30K anode resistors so your 38Ks will be fine.
Second point is that the way you regenerate the mains timebase is ok for clean power, but is noise prone and will drift (run fast over a extended period). A little more sophistication to filter spikes and insert missed pulses makes the clock far more accurate (assuming your overall mains is accurate in Denmark - In the UK, its not corrected any more). The neonixie-l group has some circuits for this...
Registered Member #1403
Joined: Tue Mar 18 2008, 06:05PM
Location: Denmark, Odense C
Posts: 1968
Nicko wrote ...
Couple of points - ZM1020s strike at about 160VDC, not the 200-300V you state in the article - Genrally, 180VDC is deemed about right. They maintain at about 140VDC with a max of 2mA anode current.
So, with your 200V secondary you'll need a minimum of 30K anode resistors so your 38Ks will be fine.
Second point is that the way you regenerate the mains timebase is ok for clean power, but is noise prone and will drift (run fast over a extended period). A little more sophistication to filter spikes and insert missed pulses makes the clock far more accurate (assuming your overall mains is accurate in Denmark - In the UK, its not corrected any more). The neonixie-l group has some circuits for this...
Cheers
You are right, they strike ignite at 170V, but the datasheet uses a example with 300V supply, so having a 200V transformer it was just to find the proper resistor from the datasheet. I chose a value a little higher to dim the tubes a bit, they run colder and the Mullard tubes are dyed red whereas the Phillips are dyed orange, so the colour difference also shines less through now.
I have had no problems with the time so far, longest run was 24 hours and it was still on the second, will have to leave it on for months without a power outage to get a real figure...
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Another nixie tube clock :)
