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Registered Member #3114
Joined: Sat Aug 14 2010, 08:33AM
Location:
Posts: 608
I have built a SGTC powered by a flyback transformer driven by a ZVS flyback driver and got ok results. The streamers where about 3 inches!(best) and arcs were 4 inches. I was on YouTube and I looked up nst arcs thinking about comparing them to my flyback arcs and i found this
With that people make Tesla coils like this
How?I read that flybacks only putout a couple milliamps and I know the ZVS flyback driver can push that but I don’t think a flyback puts out 30 milliamps or anywhere close to a neon sign transformer. In the first video the nst doesn’t even melt the wires, my flyback transformer melts nails. So how can someone get way better results with an nst then a flyback? Thank you
Registered Member #1225
Joined: Sat Jan 12 2008, 01:24AM
Location: Beaumont, Texas, USA
Posts: 2253
Don't even worry about voltage or current, just think about wattage. That is what mostly determines the performance of a sgtc (unless the voltage is too low or too high, then performance drops off due to spark gap problems).
You could get the same spark length from a flyback as a 15kv 30ma NST, it all has to do with the tuning and quality of parts. Flybacks are plenty capable of 30ma, i have pushed a flyback to 50ma and 30000v, though it did not last too long with a fullbridge. That is 1400w, which is equal to 2 12kv 60ma NSTs in parallel! That could probably get a good 6 foot spark easily.
Registered Member #1408
Joined: Fri Mar 21 2008, 03:49PM
Location: Oracle, AZ
Posts: 679
Voltage would be: V= A * O if you knew the resistance V= W / A if you knew the wattage
The wattage really ARE the deciding factor if the coil is tuned and running well. I could have saved a weekend's worth of experimentation if I simply followed that advice.
Registered Member #1408
Joined: Fri Mar 21 2008, 03:49PM
Location: Oracle, AZ
Posts: 679
Realistically getting a CHEAP DIMM (volt/ohm meter) and making a HV probe would be an answer for a low amperage device. There are MANY links to making your own but basically you need some HIGH level resistors (example: 10 magaohm 2+ watts) and connecting them to your probes. There you could simply multiply for your true voltage, etc. Here is a fairly good link for you. It's quite easy & if you are working with something like a LOPT where you are at a safe level of current, you should be fine. I wouldn't use that on things that have an element of real danger (like a MOT) but then you would have a damn good idea of what you have there to begin with anyway.
The reason why I would get a cheapy meter is that there is always a chance of popping a good one; but a $6 meter has worked fine for many folks. You'll end up with a read-out in the low voltage area due to your high resistance attachments and do some simple arithmetic. I think this will solve many of your questions there. Read the link completely and insulate well. You may find that what you end up with works quite well indeed.
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