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Registered Member #135
Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 12:06AM
Location: Anywhere is fine
Posts: 1735
Okay, so I have a little mill because I have a little garage, and we have to put our cars in at night so space is limited, otherwise I would have an enormous Bridgeport or a Tree.
That being said, I am on a path that I hope is productive and proves to be a good idea.
So this is a small machine and it can do small jobs, but it has some real limitations, and the power feed is a big one. The power feed on this machine is too fast, and I want to preserve horizontal operation because it powers the table power feed, and i hope to hob gears in the future. The idea here is to increase the power to the head unit and preserve the machine as much as possible.
I got the machine with the motor I am re-using, so that was a freebie, and I purchased the vertical head from the machine shop website, but I was still getting some slip from the belt system that normally drives the Atlas, and the bearings tend to get a bit hot after prolonged use, and there are a host of other issues as well.
My goal is to reduce the complexity of the drive train, preserve the machine, and I think this works out fairly well. I was looking at DC motors, but I already had this one like I said, and this was a cost effective use of what I had on hand.
I fabricated the brackets with the mill, did the boring operation to get the large holes (scary as hell to boot!), milled the linear bearings, everything. Now the project is wrapping-up with the wiring of the oil pump, and a wiring overhaul with oil resistant wire and it's really shaping up. Still needs a proper paint job, but that will have to be another day, just getting to this point was a huge hurdle.
In a few days I will have some Buna tubing for the oil circulation path, and hopefully I can get the flood coolant setup finished out to make this a really neat capable machine.
is it just me or that thing cool ? I saw a site ages ago , a guy was regrinding te fork neck bearing races and milling parts . this is vintage bicycles . theres also another guy who built a complete Excelsior motorcycle , mind blowing the level of talent
Registered Member #135
Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 12:06AM
Location: Anywhere is fine
Posts: 1735
Okay so I am completely losing my mind.
I thought it would be nice to have a second speed on the mill right? Only one problem, they don't make 2.5" pulleys with a 1" bore, SO I MADE ONE! HAHAHAHHAHAHHAH! I must have "metal fever" or something now.
The trouble is I ran out of spindle length to bolt this dude on, I was planning on boring the bottom portion of the pulley to give me more room on the spindle, and I decoratively recessed the smaller pulley for the nut, but I am only going to have ~2 threads clamping the spindle together and that is not sufficient.
So I spent all day yesterday turning a lovely piece of trash. It should make a nice paper weight.
Parting-off is a horrendous process, the parting tools are very finicky and tend to cause all kinds of problems.
If I am going to attempt this again, I will have to either make a single 2.5" pulley, or a cone out of steel which is not going to be fun. Turning steel on a lathe means you get to receive a lot of burns as the chips fall right into your left hand on the apron travel hand wheel.
If I go for steel, and what I have in mind, I'm going to have to buy a lot of carbide tooling, and I'm not sure I'm ready for that challenge just yet.
would it work if you had one of those split pulleys with the spacer plates in the middle ? old fan belt design . NZ , about a month ago there was a 741 indian gear box for sale that had been used on a drill press = 3 speed hand change , funny but obviously worked , now its going back on a bike
Registered Member #135
Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 12:06AM
Location: Anywhere is fine
Posts: 1735
I was looking at an adjustable pulley, but they only go down to like 2.9" with a 1" bore. It's that large spindle bore that is the main problem here.
I'm going to attempt to make a threaded sheave to go on the spindle as an intermediate step, and then machine a cone pulley to mate to the sheave. Not sure if that will work here, but it might be better then scrapping a one piece part that has to have lots of machining.
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