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Registered Member #55205
Joined: Mon Jun 08 2015, 06:06AM
Location:
Posts: 15
So I am fairly familiar with the circuit, though still a newb. Lots of sacrificed parts, and a couple gems.
Currently I have 2 setups, One using a pair of 30a 1250v (HF)IGBT's : STGWT28IH125DF 2nd using 2 pairs of 30a 200v MFet's from a cheap 12->120v inverter
INDUCTOR: I'd like to be able to run up to 350 - 500khz, Should I use a ferrite over the powdered iron? I have a 300uh inductor wound on a (size 44) EE core from the pfc section on a plasma tv psu. Would this inductor work ok not knowing if it has a gap or not? or should I wind one on a small flyback core that I can gap? Or stick to P.Iron??
VOLTAGE: So I have ran up to 40v with LIPO batteries via flyback, and up to 18v when used in HeaterMode.
I was wondering If I could use a separate 12v drive voltage for the gate portion, and run higher voltages through the inductor (not exceeding the FETMaxV / 4 rule) with a common ground? In this example I'd like to drive one of my small TC's via the 2 choke single primary with my IGBT setup possibly using 170v+/- through the coils.
If separate drive voltage is OK, are there any modifications that should be done?
Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
jdub1581 wrote ...
Guess I'll keep my thumb in my bum a bit longer...
HaHa I know the feeling, but I'm greatful to those who can help me, thers no better place than 4HV.org for help.
My experimental stuff coming up next with involve LIPO's, its just a nice way to get power with out a wall socket. And you can do your dangerous experiments outside, on cement, in case it goes off like a hand grenade.
Registered Member #55205
Joined: Mon Jun 08 2015, 06:06AM
Location:
Posts: 15
Patrick wrote ...
jdub1581 wrote ...
Guess I'll keep my thumb in my bum a bit longer...
HaHa I know the feeling, but I'm greatful to those who can help me, thers no better place than 4HV.org for help.
My experimental stuff coming up next with involve LIPO's, its just a nice way to get power with out a wall socket. And you can do your dangerous experiments outside, on cement, in case it goes off like a hand grenade.
Fully agree with the 1st point! I love this site!
I've been pretty happy with using the LIPO's with the M(azzilli).ZVS. I use my 18v drill packs (really 20v), Single batt when using as Ind. Heater, 2 in series for my flybacks for 40V. The Flybacks at 40v give me some nice 3/4" thick, 8" long, white arcs.
I just would like to know if using separate gate and drain voltages will work, I'd just test it, but I have my circuit pretty well dialed in, so why break it on a guess?!
Registered Member #54655
Joined: Thu Mar 19 2015, 05:56PM
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 82
Separate gate and drain voltages will work very well. I built one like that and it runs on two 18 volt drill batteries too! It eliminates the need for the zeners as well. I used a 12 volt regulator to supply the gate voltage but the only problem with that is that the regulator is only designed for 30v max input so it gets really hot. You could also use a 9 volt battery. The only reason that I did it that way is because I didn't have any zeners when I built it, they just lower the gate voltage to reasonable levels.
Registered Member #55205
Joined: Mon Jun 08 2015, 06:06AM
Location:
Posts: 15
Thanks Benjamin! I'll have to try it out now, starting low.. I'm trusting you... ;)
So I have a small 12v 1a smps supply, If I use that for the gates, Then I'd just have to make sure that I'm sharing a common ground with the higher V supply correct? Also have a 15v 1.5a wallwort I could use as well.
Registered Member #4074
Joined: Mon Aug 29 2011, 06:58AM
Location: Australia
Posts: 335
For the inductor: in a ZVS oscillator with a center-tapped primary and a single DC link inductor, it only needs to survive the full DC current without saturating, so powdered iron or gapped ferrite is ideal (my 2 year old ZVS driver uses a big ferrite rod from an AM radio wound with thick wire).
In this case, I believe you'll need something that vaguely matches the primary of the SSTC (and can cope with the high frequency), since the capacitor, inductor and SSTC primary will need to be tuned to oscillate at the secondary's resonant frequency. Is there a particular reason why you've avoided the center-tapped coil?
Registered Member #55219
Joined: Tue Jun 09 2015, 11:21PM
Location:
Posts: 80
GrantX wrote ...
For the inductor: in a ZVS oscillator with a center-tapped primary and a single DC link inductor, it only needs to survive the full DC current without saturating, so powdered iron or gaped ferrite is ideal (my 2 year old ZVS driver uses a big ferrite rod from an AM radio wound with thick wire).
In this case, I believe you'll need something that vaguely matches the primary of the SSTC (and can cope with the high frequency), since the capacitor, inductor and SSTC primary will need to be tuned to oscillate at the secondary's resonant frequency. Is there a particular reason why you've avoided the center-tapped coil?
Sweet Grant thanks for the extra info on the inductor.. I can now get the lil BPTC going..
My niece was throwing away a 2'ft plastic 'Yard Glass' (think beer if confused) and all I saw was a former with flared ends waiting to be spooled and capped... Had 4 mini aluminum Bundt pans that fit the ends perfect, so made 2 tiny tori .. Figured the M.ZVS would be great for it being a 'push pull' as is..
Once I order my 1st batch of parts for my half bridge, I'll work on getting some pics posted
There is no particular reason for avoiding the center tap primary, although it does become a pain with conical / spiral coils to get each side balanced right without a scope and an arduino for my L meter (fairly accurate at lower values). I have noticed that it does like a tight primary. I tried with 1" gap and nada, tight wound (without tuning) on a small 2k turn #40awg coil gave me the ZVS flyback type arcs.. Is this due to the 'density' of the voltage applied, where there isn't enough flux to transfer
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