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Forums
4hv.org :: Forums :: High Voltage
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Light LED with 4 nanoamps

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johnf
Sat May 09 2015, 07:40AM
johnf Registered Member #230 Joined: Tue Feb 21 2006, 08:01PM
Location: Gracefield lower Hutt
Posts: 284
Try VR68 range resistors they are very cheap max value 68 meg ohms
element 14 RS etc carry them
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Tony Matt
Sun May 10 2015, 12:45AM
Tony Matt Registered Member #3700 Joined: Sat Feb 19 2011, 12:59PM
Location:
Posts: 107
Why not try first without the resistor ?

If it not work without resistor, you do not need order the resistor ...
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Zamboni
Wed May 20 2015, 11:52PM
Zamboni Registered Member #2836 Joined: Fri Apr 30 2010, 01:24PM
Location:
Posts: 41
Tony Matt wrote ...

Here the schema more readable...
1429677581 3700 FT163929 Zamboni 2


I got the parts from Mouser and hooked it up. It does not really work. There is a tiny flash, but it is even dimmer than hooking up a regular 10MM LED between the negative terminal and the battery.

As I looked at the setup, another problem became more pronounced. The battery really does not like being hooked up to the capacitor. I noticed that the direct short of the battery and the capacitor is not for a moment or two, but for nearly the entire time. The battery is charging the cap until the spark gap fires, then charging again. That is the same as having a dead short the entire time.
That won't work.

So far, the only thing that can be hooked up "dead short" fashion is an electrostatic volt meter. The Tera-ohm resistance prevents the battery from "feeling" bad. smile

The other suggestion that uses a capacitor suffers from the same problem.

I really appreciate all the assistance that the forum members have provided, but it looks like it can't be done without harming the battery.

I did notice one very interesting thing. I will probably start another thread that describes a small, but interesting thing that happens when I have a 10MM LED hooked up after the negative terminal and before the negative terminal of the battery. The swinger delivers the 4 nanoamp charge to the negative terminel, the charge lights the LED (very dimly), then the swinger returns to the positive terminal to gather more charge. What is interesting is that when the, now depleted, swinger touches the positive terminal, the LED blinks again. That surprised me. It seems very interesting.

Again,
Thank you for all your assistance,
Paul
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Ash Small
Thu May 21 2015, 01:57PM
Ash Small Registered Member #3414 Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245
You could still try limiting the current to a few nano-amps with resistors, but you'd need a very low leakage capacitor.

If I had suitable resistors I'd try this with a Leyden jar, for example.

EDIT: Some form of 'water resistor', or even 'salt water resistor' might be worth looking into wink
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Antonio
Thu May 21 2015, 10:14PM
Antonio Registered Member #834 Joined: Tue Jun 12 2007, 10:57PM
Location: Brazil
Posts: 644
The capacitor is there to accumulate energy to flash the LED more brightly. There is no way to light a LED without consuming energy, of course. Resistors would not help. They would consume energy and reduce the energy delivered to the LED. Please provide a drawing of the system where the LED blinks when the swinger touches both terminals. Try a neon lamp instead of the LED.
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Zamboni
Wed May 27 2015, 12:53AM
Zamboni Registered Member #2836 Joined: Fri Apr 30 2010, 01:24PM
Location:
Posts: 41
Antonio wrote ...

The capacitor is there to accumulate energy to flash the LED more brightly. There is no way to light a LED without consuming energy, of course. Resistors would not help. They would consume energy and reduce the energy delivered to the LED. Please provide a drawing of the system where the LED blinks when the swinger touches both terminals. Try a neon lamp instead of the LED.

Antonio,
The setup where the light flashes each time the swinger touches one side or the other is the older setup. It is the one where the LED's are attached between the negative swinger terminal, and the negative battery terminal. I have enclosed the original sketch, The only difference is that there is no capacitor or spark gap.

To be very clear, the flash occurs as the swinger touches either the negative terminal, which would be expected, or the positive terminal, which seems very strange to me.

I have tried a neon. It works OK, but just like the LED, too faint to be of any use...except in the dark, where you can barely see it.

Paul
1432688032 2836 FT163929 Paul
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Tony Matt
Fri Jun 05 2015, 11:21PM
Tony Matt Registered Member #3700 Joined: Sat Feb 19 2011, 12:59PM
Location:
Posts: 107
Zamboni,
Tell us the polarity of the hi voltage diode and polarity of the leds.
Regards


Antonio :
How about using similar arrangement of Bennet Doubler ? Nicholson Doubler ?
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Antonio
Sat Jun 06 2015, 01:45AM
Antonio Registered Member #834 Joined: Tue Jun 12 2007, 10:57PM
Location: Brazil
Posts: 644
With this schematic, the LED may really light up when the pendulum touches both plates. When it touches the negative plate, the charge that comes from the pendulum goes through the LED. When it touches the positive plate, the charge that goes to it comes in part from the negative plate, passing through the LED again. The effect is possibly more interesting with two LEDs, one at each side of the battery.
I could try to make the same using an electrostatic machine, as the rotating doubler of a previous video.
1433555033 834 FT163929 Pendulum
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Zamboni
Sat Jun 06 2015, 02:06PM
Zamboni Registered Member #2836 Joined: Fri Apr 30 2010, 01:24PM
Location:
Posts: 41
Antonio wrote ...

With this schematic, the LED may really light up when the pendulum touches both plates. When it touches the negative plate, the charge that comes from the pendulum goes through the LED. When it touches the positive plate, the charge that goes to it comes in part from the negative plate, passing through the LED again. The effect is possibly more interesting with two LEDs, one at each side of the battery.
I could try to make the same using an electrostatic machine, as the rotating doubler of a previous video.
1433555033 834 FT163929 Pendulum


Antonio,
Your explanation makes perfect sense. No big mystery after all...just lack of knowledge on my part. wink

Thank You,
Paul
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Antonio
Mon Jun 08 2015, 01:16AM
Antonio Registered Member #834 Joined: Tue Jun 12 2007, 10:57PM
Location: Brazil
Posts: 644
I tried a similar setup using that machine of the video as power supply. The pendulum works without problems, but I didn't see any light with LEDs or neon lamps at the pendulum touches. My pendulum was small and with a different geometry, however. It's also difficult to keep well regulated the voltage produced by the machine, and the neon lamps had a tendency to light dimly following the ripple in the voltage. The voltage was higher too, probably around 2 kV.
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