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Light LED with 4 nanoamps

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Newton Brawn

Thu Apr 30 2015, 04:02AM

Registered Member #3343 Joined: Thu Oct 21 2010, 04:06PM
Location: Toronto
Posts: 311

Paul,,

very good.

If you spend 60 seconds to charged the a 3.3nF cap, you will spend 20seconds to charge charge a 1nF cap.

Now you have to work in the circuit that will discharge the cap into LED.

I may sugest you follow the Antonio experiments.
The schematic was posted Wed Apr 22 2015, 12:39AM
the spark gap will not drain all voltage from battery

Zamboni

Fri May 01 2015, 01:16AM

Registered Member #2836 Joined: Fri Apr 30 2010, 01:24PM
Location:
Posts: 41

Newton Brawn wrote ...

Paul,,

very good.

If you spend 60 seconds to charged the a 3.3nF cap, you will spend 20seconds to charge charge a 1nF cap.

Now you have to work in the circuit that will discharge the cap into LED.

I may sugest you follow the Antonio experiments.
The schematic was posted Wed Apr 22 2015, 12:39AM
the spark gap will not drain all voltage from battery

If you think it will work, I was going to try a 10PF cap, and a 100PF cap. Do those values sound good? If not, what would you suggest?
What resistor value would be a good start?

Antonio's design, though very inventive, will not work with my Device. There is no way to place a wire on the needle of the swinger. Any friction (from the wire) will stop the device.

Paul

Newton Brawn

Fri May 01 2015, 02:16AM

Registered Member #3343 Joined: Thu Oct 21 2010, 04:06PM
Location: Toronto
Posts: 311

Paul,

All you need is in the schema posted by Tony on
Wed Apr 22 2015, 12:39AM.

" 430 uH requires 53 turns of #32AWG wire wound on a section of PVC tube with 8.8 cm of diameter."

This schematic is the summary of all work done by Antonio.

Later, after you have adjusted the gap, insert a 100Meghom between the battery and C1

4 diodes 1n4007 in series will be fine

Ash Small

Fri May 01 2015, 10:14AM

Registered Member #3414 Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245

Won't the buck converter design place extra strain on the pile, as far as current draw in concerned?

By boosting the voltage, it leaves a voltage deficit behind, which places an even greater current draw on the pile?

Newton Brawn

Fri May 01 2015, 10:06PM

Registered Member #3343 Joined: Thu Oct 21 2010, 04:06PM
Location: Toronto
Posts: 311

Ash,

Yes, you are right.
It will place some strain in the pile, BUT just the time for Paul to adjust the spark gap. THEM he will place a 100 megohm between the battery and C1.
The gap will disrupt the voltage before the complete battery drain.

The converter is supposed to buck the voltage.

Zamboni

Sun May 03 2015, 07:02PM

Registered Member #2836 Joined: Fri Apr 30 2010, 01:24PM
Location:
Posts: 41

Newton Brawn wrote ...

Paul,

All you need is in the schema posted by Tony on
Wed Apr 22 2015, 12:39AM.

" 430 uH requires 53 turns of #32AWG wire wound on a section of PVC tube with 8.8 cm of diameter."

This schematic is the summary of all work done by Antonio.

Later, after you have adjusted the gap, insert a 100Meghom between the battery and C1

4 diodes 1n4007 in series will be fine

I will order a 100 Mohm resistor and give it a try.

Paul

Ash Small

Sun May 03 2015, 07:26PM

Registered Member #3414 Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245

As you're aware, there are different quality resistors on the market.

Not sure what the best type would be here. Maybe a film type?

Zamboni

Sun May 03 2015, 11:16PM

Registered Member #2836 Joined: Fri Apr 30 2010, 01:24PM
Location:
Posts: 41

Ash Small wrote ...

As you're aware, there are different quality resistors on the market.

Not sure what the best type would be here. Maybe a film type?

I was going to get this one. Do you think it would be OK?

Ash Small

Mon May 04 2015, 10:10AM

Registered Member #3414 Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245

I imagine it will be ok for testing purposes. Apparently some lose accuracy over time. Maybe a 'name brand' with a datasheet, etc. would be better for 'production models'. Others here probably know more than me about this.

Zamboni

Sat May 09 2015, 12:41AM

Registered Member #2836 Joined: Fri Apr 30 2010, 01:24PM
Location:
Posts: 41

Ash Small wrote ...

I imagine it will be ok for testing purposes. Apparently some lose accuracy over time. Maybe a 'name brand' with a datasheet, etc. would be better for 'production models'. Others here probably know more than me about this.

I saw this from Mouser. Does it look OK to you? Even has a data sheet. If it's good, I will order tomorrow.

588-MOX-750231006JE

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