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Registered Member #65
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:43AM
Location:
Posts: 1155
Tried it a few years back with 5mm clear super-bright RED LEDs. Sometimes if you fry the inside chip in a certain way it will create a rather stable little spark gap sealed inside the plastic (kind of neat for a miniature electrical noise source.)
For RF indicators simply add a LED across a few turns of a coil antenna. (For old cell phones it is about 2 to 3 turns of the GSM antenna IIRC)
I have burnt out LEDs doing this in the past but they "still light"!! In fact, a "burnt out" LED lights fine under high voltage. So it may seem like the LEDs work but if you go to power them up normally they might look dead. However, if the LED still "works" who cares The fancy high brightness and "modern" LEDs often tend to be far more fragile.
I did look at the LM3914 circuit today but the LM3914 starts to pull off at 20kHz and is totally gone at 50kHz. If one wants to do a linear bar graph, it would probably have to be made out of discrete comparators and such. I might still look into that since it would be so cool
Registered Member #10
Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 09:45AM
Location: Bunbury, Australia
Posts: 1424
I am in the process of planning a 10 stage bipolar current meter with the bells and whistles. In this process I tested a red LED and a Blue LED for reverse breakdown. Red forward voltage was 1.5V at 20mA.
So it seems that the red LED acts as a zener with a soft turn on. The blue seemed to blow before any significant current was taken. Hence as determined experimentally, the red LEDs are the best to take HV abuse.
Green LED's went to about 22V before blowing. Old style red LED's were OK with Zener action at about 23V.
Photo 1 Old style red LED unprotected. Photo 2 Red LED 3W Lumiled. Reverse protected with standard red LED.
Registered Member #10
Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 09:45AM
Location: Bunbury, Australia
Posts: 1424
All this is hard on LED's which don't last long. LED's can die by degrees as below. I seem to have blown a lot lately trying to get a current meter going. It goes but eventually the LED's die.
Photo 1 shows a normal red LED driven by 6 VAC via a 1 k resistor plus antiparallel green and blue LEDs which is my wired test setup (very handy). Note the LED die (light emitting square in the centre of the LED. Only the blue LED lights as current only passes in one direction. Photo 2 shows a partially dead LED where the square die has a non functioning area. In addition the LED is not bright and it conducts in both directions as both green and blue LED's light up. Photo 3 shows a partially dead LED where the square die is still normal but the LED is not bright and it also conducts in both directions as both green and blue LED's light up.
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