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Registered Member #2893
Joined: Tue Jun 01 2010, 09:25PM
Location: Cali-forn. i. a.
Posts: 2242
So here's the blue one. Now this one can be put in // for more current without a problem. I didn't tear up the transformer because I only have 2 blue boards, so no turns count.
Registered Member #2648
Joined: Sun Jan 24 2010, 12:45PM
Location: Australia
Posts: 291
Hey All
I've had trouble getting disposable cameras since no one here uses them anymore. But impulse bought 10 dispoable flash circuits from ebay for $20.50 (inc. Postage) >.< I got a variety of photoflash circuits, i.e. not all Kodaks. I only got 1 Kodak and another board looks kinda like a Red Kodak but probably isn't. All the ones I've tested charge their caps and flash. On one of the boards, the indicator light wasn't working, so I thought it didn't charge up the cap but it did. So I got zapped and it hurt like a *****
I cut up my Kodak board (Yellow) and wired it as Grenadier did. It outputs ~400v OC but it won't seem to charge the cap =/ It goes to 3.3v and no more. I got a 453 Tektronix O'Scope (donated to me by the ANU =D) , its got 600v max input so I hooked I up with a 10:1 Probe with ground floating, It did some funny stuff when I grounded 0v
Registered Member #2893
Joined: Tue Jun 01 2010, 09:25PM
Location: Cali-forn. i. a.
Posts: 2242
Hmm that's odd... Maybe the cap's bad? When I hooked up a whole bunch of photo flash caps in // they wouldn't charge, and it turned out to be the fault of a bad capacitor in the bunch. Those caps aren't the most reliable things.
Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
yeah cheap caps meant for high current short impulse, can burn there little plates, and paper insulation, or boil off there electrolyte. especically the china cheap ones with no datasheets or type numbers. i even have one with no markings at all, no polarity, no voltage, just that black sleeve. scary.
Registered Member #618
Joined: Sat Mar 31 2007, 04:15AM
Location: Us-Great Lakes
Posts: 628
Grenadier i think i figured out your problem with the current issue, if you look at teh yellow boards the 3.9M resistor and neon are ACROSS the + and - of the output and the blue one only has the resistor and light in series with the out put and ground in the scematic, and if I'm correct the more blue boards you put in parallel the lower the resistance will bon on the lower leg of the output ( I could be wrong), meaning you would get more current and possibly voltage.
Where as the yellow boards would also have a lower resistance considering the neon gas has a resistance and of course teh 3.9M resistor, but because the boards are paralleled the total resistance is lower, causing more current to be used.
I could be wrong on this theory especially since you said you took the neon out, I presume you took the resistor out as well.
The only other thing i can think of is that the yellow boards don't get much of a current increase since the - of the output goes into the base of 1 transistor then into another before connecting to ground.
If I'm miss understanding something I'm sorry the firewall here at owrk blocks just about all types of media, with a few exceptions.
Registered Member #2893
Joined: Tue Jun 01 2010, 09:25PM
Location: Cali-forn. i. a.
Posts: 2242
I see what you're saying. And yeah when the neons were taken out, the resistors were left with nothing on one lead, so they were in essence not there. All I got was a voltage increase of about ~70V, but the same amount of current.
The second thing might actually be the problem. When I'm not being lazy I'll put a 1 to 10k resistor on the bottom end of the transformer, and use that as the HV ground. Maybe that will do something other than fry the transistors.
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Disposable camera circuits.
