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Registered Member #146
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 04:21AM
Location: Austin Tx
Posts: 1055
Hey nice performance! Seems like its all working nicely now, as usual there's the one crappy spike at the beginning (where the current is really low) and then its perfect from then on out. There really isnt much you can do about it without getting needlessly complicated.
Do you have any good estimate of the peak primary current? My similar project needed all 600 peak amps to get in the 60" range.
I dont think the CM300 is overkill... its just conservative. Thanks for taking pictures of the CM300 mods, i did this years ago and lost my pictures, so normally i just had to describe it to people and hope they got it right :P. Its really pretty obvious if you have any clue about whats going on inside there.
Registered Member #2292
Joined: Fri Aug 14 2009, 05:33PM
Location: The Wild West AKA Arizona
Posts: 795
Steve Ward wrote ...
Hey nice performance! Seems like its all working nicely now, as usual there's the one crappy spike at the beginning (where the current is really low) and then its perfect from then on out. There really isnt much you can do about it without getting needlessly complicated.
Do you have any good estimate of the peak primary current? My similar project needed all 600 peak amps to get in the 60" range.
I dont think the CM300 is overkill... its just conservative. Thanks for taking pictures of the CM300 mods, i did this years ago and lost my pictures, so normally i just had to describe it to people and hope they got it right :P. Its really pretty obvious if you have any clue about whats going on inside there.
Ya thanks again for help Steve!
Also thanks for all the complements so far.
And Steve to answer your question my DIY scope probe said about 550A to 600A once I got it running. I did have the limiter set for for 700A but it never tripped it so all is good .
That 1/4 primary is starting to get a little hot on some of those 30s to 40s runs may have to swap it out for 3/8.
Registered Member #93
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 04:11PM
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 64
Nice looking coil and arcs!
I do have a question though. When you say you used Steve Ward's UD2.0 driver for the coil, is that different than the 1.3 version that's on his website? If so, would you mind detailing the differences?
Registered Member #2292
Joined: Fri Aug 14 2009, 05:33PM
Location: The Wild West AKA Arizona
Posts: 795
RickR wrote ...
Nice looking coil and arcs!
I do have a question though. When you say you used Steve Ward's UD2.0 driver for the coil, is that different than the 1.3 version that's on his website? If so, would you mind detailing the differences?
Thanks,
Rick
Yes it is his newest driver it uses phase lead to switch large IGBT bricks in advance of the zero crossing. This enables me to run CM300DU-24F (normal would run no higher that 60KHz) at close to 100Khz and with almost perfect ZCS.
Registered Member #639
Joined: Wed Apr 11 2007, 09:09PM
Location: The Netherlands, Herkenbosch
Posts: 512
Wow, quite a showpiece. How long did you work on this coil? The finishing is just awesome. Love the spun toroid Would be nice if you can add the CM300DU-24F mod to the 4hv wiki. This will be usefull for other people.
Are you planning to push the coil further? Maybe going for a H-bridge with doubler??
One thing I find strange to see is that your coil manages the same spark length as my coil which is twice the size but has the approximately the same MMC and primary current. Think those factors make up the largest part of spark length.
Registered Member #2292
Joined: Fri Aug 14 2009, 05:33PM
Location: The Wild West AKA Arizona
Posts: 795
Dalus wrote ...
Wow, quite a showpiece. How long did you work on this coil? The finishing is just awesome. Love the spun toroid Would be nice if you can add the CM300DU-24F mod to the 4hv wiki. This will be usefull for other people.
Are you planning to push the coil further? Maybe going for a H-bridge with doubler??
One thing I find strange to see is that your coil manages the same spark length as my coil which is twice the size but has the approximately the same MMC and primary current. Think those factors make up the largest part of spark length.
This coil took me about 1 month to get it to the point were it is now.
And I do plan to push this coil farther, the thing is there is no need to upgrade the bridge as I can push this system without having to do that. The only 2 things I should upgrade are 1: the primary to 3/8 (that 1/4 primary gets hot after some longer runs), and 2: a higher voltage tank cap.
Registered Member #2292
Joined: Fri Aug 14 2009, 05:33PM
Location: The Wild West AKA Arizona
Posts: 795
Sorry I hate to double post, but I have an important update I have tested my DR2 and DR1 with music! this is also a test of my new tesla coil PSU, that will soon replace my variac.
Hi, very nice coil, i've got one CM300DY-24NF brick, whats the difference between 'DY' and yours 'DU'. Can i get same output with DY as you have, what do u think? PS: where i can find: Steve Ward's UD2.0 scheme, board,... ? thx -Martin
Registered Member #2292
Joined: Fri Aug 14 2009, 05:33PM
Location: The Wild West AKA Arizona
Posts: 795
mmt wrote ...
Hi, very nice coil, i've got one CM300DY-24NF brick, whats the difference between 'DY' and yours 'DU'. Can i get same output with DY as you have, what do u think? PS: where i can find: Steve Ward's UD2.0 scheme, board,... ? thx -Martin
Well the DY and DU tell you what case style the IGBT uses. The DY has the main connectors in the middle of the IGBT, while the DU has them over to the side. Also the NF bricks are faster than the F bricks and don't have the lame limiter circuit (RTC).
UD2.0 is not an open project you will have to talk to Steve about getting any info on it.
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My DRSSTC 2
. 
Would be nice if you can add the CM300DU-24F mod to the 4hv wiki. This will be usefull for other people.
