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Tesla coil - DR/SSTC

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LAN_403

quicksilver

Sun Jun 27 2010, 07:54PM

Registered Member #1408 Joined: Fri Mar 21 2008, 03:49PM
Location: Oracle, AZ
Posts: 679

You were right to ditch the wood. It will look great IF you have excellent hardwood to work with and put a lot of time into it - but plain-Jane wall board never does a project justice.
And this is going to be a fine piece. The thing that was lucky was that everything fit in the metal unit.

dmg

Sun Jun 27 2010, 10:52PM

Registered Member #2628 Joined: Fri Jan 15 2010, 12:23AM
Location:
Posts: 627

Im still working on this system, and really making it up just as a I go along, so we will see where it will take us over the next few months or so...

(Also, probably gonna switch to brick power at some point instead of those whimpy SOT-227's.. however at the moment I am mostly focusing on my interrupter/modulator and getting it working nicely)

Can't wait till the very first run of this system.

dmg

Fri Jul 09 2010, 09:52PM

Registered Member #2628 Joined: Fri Jan 15 2010, 12:23AM
Location:
Posts: 627

Started to finally give everything its paint job, and so far, I desided to go for a hammered finish for both controller and variac case.

it is finally time to start assembling the controller together, I just need to cut out a plexiglass cover and then I can attach all the controls and my modulator housing on top.

Edit: a bit more information about the controller, the thing has an SMPS and a power DC to DC converter, so the outputs are 5V+ 12V+ and 24V+ 24V-, all have a common ground which are bonded to the frame itself (note the little brass nut on the side of the case, that is the mains ground connection) there is a power solid state relay (black thing on the side with "CE" on it) which controls the master feed to the coil.
the two big ass capactors are filtration capacitors for the 5V and 12V line, (2200uF would be fine, but noooooo... I have to put 100,000uF)
once I finish assembling my modulator, and put it all in its pretty metal box, I can cut out a plexiglass interface for the top of the thing, so I can start mounting the modulator (which also has most of the controls for the coil) and then I have a bunch of spare plexi to put other controls, meters, etc.

so at the moment, it is still a pretty universal controller, mostly since I desided now to have the variac external from the unit.

Killa-X

Sat Jul 10 2010, 02:17AM

Registered Member #1643 Joined: Mon Aug 18 2008, 06:10PM
Location:
Posts: 1039

Looks good! Too bad you cant still decide what type of coil your making...You keep changing ideas!

dmg

Sun Jul 11 2010, 07:38PM

Registered Member #2628 Joined: Fri Jan 15 2010, 12:23AM
Location:
Posts: 627

well... umm.. killa.... Im not touching that one.

ive made a few different secondaries, some from 24AWG and some from 30AWG and ill swap em in the system when I get around to testing it, so I can see what will work best.

also, started to make a few new bussbars for the bridge's connections (its a bit trickier now with the extra isotops for the diodes, but works well so far)
ive desided to use 1/8th thick by 5/8th copper busses for my bridge connections.

also, an interesting method of cutting heatsinks shown to me by my dad, and I like it far better then using a chopsaw,
the method involved clamping down the sink very well to the saw's base, and then puting some oil along the cutting line, then after that you slowly make passes across it with a miter saw (serated teeth blade) and after a bit the thing cuts very neatly through the sink, then it can be easly smoothed with a sander.
however, if you choose to do this method, better have a sawblade that you dont care about, and put on some earplugs, this machine makes a deafening screech that sounds as if you put your ear next to a high powered spark gap.

will post some more pics later.

dmg

Tue Jul 13 2010, 01:03AM

Registered Member #2628 Joined: Fri Jan 15 2010, 12:23AM
Location:
Posts: 627

for the first test runs, I want to use a bare-bones modulator, just for the ease of making it, (later on Ill move to move fancy stuff)
this is effectivly steve's DRSSTC-1 modulator, with a few minor changed,
the timing capacitor is changed for lower BPS (thanks matt (arcstarter) for pointing that out for me) and Im also using a different timer for this rather then the 555.... dont ask...

Ill give more details on the on/off time later.

the audio bieng CTC-labs design, It has worked in the past, lets hope it stacks up for a drsstc.

the more completed interrupted (not done yet)

Drupt

dmg

Sun Jul 18 2010, 10:24PM

Registered Member #2628 Joined: Fri Jan 15 2010, 12:23AM
Location:
Posts: 627

I will be starting a new thread, lets let this one sink to oblivion...

Bjørn

Mon Jul 19 2010, 12:48PM

Registered Member #27 Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 02:20AM
Location: Hyperborea
Posts: 2058

Locked by request.

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