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4hv.org :: Forums :: General Science and Electronics
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Yeeeeha! Microprocessor controlled induction heater

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IamSmooth
Mon Mar 15 2010, 01:57AM Print
IamSmooth Registered Member #190 Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 12:00AM
Location:
Posts: 1567
I have successfully made a microprocessor controlled induction heater. My goal was to have a unit that will locate, lock and track resonance without any user input, and with any coil or workpiece.

The video shows how accurately and cleanly the circuit holds onto the resonant frequency. The range is 50 khz - 100 khz, but I can set it to anything. However, I have finer resolution if I keep the range tighter. Right now I can move in 12 Hz increments.

Link2

My next step is to connect it to 220v mains and see how hot I can get things. Then, I want to try and levitate a solid piece of steel and copper.
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Bjørn
Mon Mar 15 2010, 04:01AM
Bjørn Registered Member #27 Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 02:20AM
Location: Hyperborea
Posts: 2058
That is excellent, it seems to work perfectly. Don't forget to explain how you did it.
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IamSmooth
Mon Mar 15 2010, 04:04AM
IamSmooth Registered Member #190 Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 12:00AM
Location:
Posts: 1567
I plan to post schematics and have an updated video when I get it set up.
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Conundrum
Mon Mar 15 2010, 08:21AM
Conundrum Registered Member #96 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:37PM
Location: CI, Earth
Posts: 4061
nice! :)

something like this would be handy for a reprap liquid metal dispensing nozzle...

-A
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uzzors2k
Mon Mar 15 2010, 01:01PM
uzzors2k Registered Member #95 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 04:57PM
Location: Norway
Posts: 1308
Neat! Was this more enjoyable to design than the analog induction heater? I've never given digital control loops much thought, but there's so much more you can do with them that they must really excel in applications like this. What kind of microprocessor are you using?
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IamSmooth
Mon Mar 15 2010, 01:21PM
IamSmooth Registered Member #190 Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 12:00AM
Location:
Posts: 1567
ATMega328
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GeordieBoy
Mon Mar 15 2010, 02:39PM
GeordieBoy Registered Member #1232 Joined: Wed Jan 16 2008, 10:53PM
Location: Doon tha Toon!
Posts: 881
Cool. What did you use for the RF source driving the inverter? Direct PWM out of the micro at the IH frequency, an analogue VCO controlled by the micro, or a digital DDS chip?

Have you implemented current/voltage limiting in your software controller also? You don't always want the inverter to pump full power into the tank circuit at it's resonant frequency. A typical example of this situation would be if the workpiece is removed.

-Richie,
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IamSmooth
Mon Mar 15 2010, 05:49PM
IamSmooth Registered Member #190 Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 12:00AM
Location:
Posts: 1567
Well. I have a small setback. It seems that as I increase the input voltage at resonance the chip gets reset. It just stops. The only way I can recover is if I take the microprocessor out and reprogram it.

Any thoughts? Do I need to tie all inputs that aren't being used to ground? Do I need an optocoupler to isolate my pwm output to the opamp? More decoupling capacitors somewhere?
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Nicko
Mon Mar 15 2010, 06:06PM
Nicko Registered Member #1334 Joined: Tue Feb 19 2008, 04:37PM
Location: Nr. London, UK
Posts: 615
IamSmooth wrote ...

Well. I have a small setback. It seems that as I increase the input voltage at resonance the chip gets reset. It just stops. The only way I can recover is if I take the microprocessor out and reprogram it.

Any thoughts? Do I need to tie all inputs that aren't being used to ground? Do I need an optocoupler to isolate my pwm output to the opamp? More decoupling capacitors somewhere?

More than decoupling I would have thought - have you scoped the power lines for the uP? also, with all that RFI, tie everything down to GND that's unused (nothing floating) anywhere, and screen & filter like crazy. One thing I learnt early was to use a completely separate regulator & filtering for the uP - don't share it with anything else! You can make nice boxes with FR4 board soldered up - a common radio amateur trick - e.g. see Link2 and Link2 etc.

I use the ATmega168PA at lot (will be using the 328 as they are essentially the same chip) with a TC for something I'm, working on, and I'm probably going to optically isolate all my I/O so that the uP can live safely in what is an extremely non-uP-friendly environment...

Another thought: Check your ground path and make sure nothing else is returning current anywhere near your uP - use a "star ground" configuration.
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cjk2
Mon Mar 15 2010, 09:54PM
cjk2 Registered Member #51 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 04:17AM
Location:
Posts: 263
Could it be something as simple as a signal coupling back to the reset pin on the Atmega? Use a pullup resistor on the reset pin and see if the problem goes away.
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