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2KW Bearing Heater

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klugesmith
Mon Aug 31 2009, 06:22PM
klugesmith Registered Member #2099 Joined: Wed Apr 29 2009, 12:22AM
Location: Los Altos, California
Posts: 1716
Hi.
Not sure -adding- turns will help. It will reduce the volts per turn (so -less- flux density everywhere), and doubly reduce the no-load magnetizing current.

Suggestion: if you add 100 turns, keep both ends of the new winding accessible, and not permanently connected to the original 600 turns. Then by changing the external series connection, you can switch between 500, 600, and 700 effective turns.
When new winding is connected "backwards" there will be a place with much more than usual voltage between layers. So you might want to cover old winding with heat-resistant tape or paper before starting the new winding.

The heating watts depend on 2 things: the induced voltage in 1 turn around the crossbar, and the electrical resistance in that direction of the part being heated. If you want to try a load that would draw more mains current and heat faster than the bearing, how about a thick brass/bronze pipe fitting, or thick aluminum part with a hole, or a short-circuited bearing-sized winding of any gauge copper wire or tubing? (Metals that conduct electricity many times better than steel).

[edit] oops, forgot about skin effect. In strongly magnetic materials like carbon steel, the induced AC current only flows near the surface of the bearing race. That increases the effective resistance and reduces the heating power. Now your observed heating rate is not far out of line with the model. To get 2 kW, I bet the commercial heater must be tested with a much bigger bearing and/or one made of highly conductive, not-very-magnetic metal.
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Raka
Wed Sept 02 2009, 06:53PM
Raka Registered Member #1838 Joined: Tue Dec 02 2008, 06:01PM
Location:
Posts: 38
I added the extra wire yesterday, to make the total turns 724, it did reduce the no-load current by about 30%, but the time to heat the bearing increased by approximately one minute. I dropped 64 turns (3 turns/volt), but once again the only significant change was the no-load current. Heating time was about the same. So I decided to stick with the original 600 turns, because it gave me the best heating time and then I don’t need to change the enclosure to fit the coil.
Today I added a secondary of 40+40 turns for the display and finalized the project.

Concerning the heating time. I never managed to heat that bearing in 2min again, all my runs ended up 2m40s. Now with the enclosure it takes 3m40s from 24-100C (I did make the part that encloses the uprights from non conducting material, fibreglass) but it seems just the presense of the metal box is enough to have that big an effect.

Thanks to all who help with the project, special thanks to Rich

1251917440 1838 FT74994 Bh4
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GeordieBoy
Thu Sept 03 2009, 12:01AM
GeordieBoy Registered Member #1232 Joined: Wed Jan 16 2008, 10:53PM
Location: Doon tha Toon!
Posts: 881
Don't enclose the thing in a metal box! Anything conductive that completely surrounds the core limbs will be heated by induction and ruin overall efficiency, ...and anything magnetic that goes across between the core limbs will shunt magnetic flux away from the crossbar where you want it to heat your workpiece.

-Richie,
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Raka
Thu Sept 17 2009, 05:17PM
Raka Registered Member #1838 Joined: Tue Dec 02 2008, 06:01PM
Location:
Posts: 38
The transformer is rather heavy for a plastic box and Im willing toe sacrifice a bit of performance for a neat enclosure. As I mentioned the top part of the enclosure is almost completely of 2mm thick fibreglass, so there can’t be significant circulating currant, the nearby metal will act as a shunt to some extent, but that I recon is not necessarily a bad ting. At this stage I must add that I discovered that the ambient temperature, have a huge influence on the heating times, I thought the influence would be neglect able. Heating times (24-100C) seems to be lower in recent days, closer to 2m40s. The nearest metal parts of the enclosure heat less than 5C during that time. Of course that again depends on the ambient temperature. I did not record the ambient temperatures when it did previous experiments, so its impossible to make a really scientific analysis of the performance change during the development. At this stage Im satisfied with the results.
A project that I thought would be straightforward ended up teaching me quite a bit. A mechanic friend of mine assures me that this is a really handy tool to have. I would love to see other people build some bearing heaters also, maybe then we can compare results.
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