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Registered Member #2148
Joined: Tue Jun 02 2009, 02:22AM
Location:
Posts: 62
Hazmatt_(The Underdog) wrote ...
No part of the secondary should be inside your former because you will have a racing arc down the inside of the tube. You can't see it when it happens, which makes things difficult. You may hear a cracking sound inside the tube, but that's about it.
Metal should be avoided because it can act as a breakout point, or HV stress point. A large potential can build up and cause a burn on the plastic, which causes carbon tracking and eventually a large spreading conductive burn. That's worst case, but should still be avoided.
For the top try a T type plug or an end cap. Many people use this so they don't need fasteners.
Hi Okay then, i will remove all metals in the former for the better and make remedies to attach what i have to attach! Thank you, my laziness gone! Btw what is a t~type?end cap?sorry for my innocence but Can you provide pictures?
Registered Member #480
Joined: Thu Jul 06 2006, 07:08PM
Location: North America
Posts: 644
eniyuki -
A "baffle" is just a sealed partition (a wall) inside the secondary that provides an insulating barrier between the top end and the bottom end of the secondary so arcs cannot occur inside.
Like this:
Your "sucker-gap" should work well if you remove the sharp edges at the ends of the metal fittings that you are using as electrodes. My question is, how will you attach your primary wiring to these fittings to obtain a good, low-resistance electrical connection?
At this point, I would just add an internal baffle to your secondary, and not make any other changes until you get the coil running. Other changes may not be necessary.
If you have not already done this, you may also want to determine your primary-secondary coupling coefficient (K-factor) using one of the Tesla coil design programs (JAVATC, MAND-K, etc) BEFORE you first run your coil. It's better to start with a lower K-factor, and gradually increase it, than to start with an excessively high coupling factor. If the K-factor is too high, it can cause arcing on the surface of the secondary ("racing arcs") that can seriously damage or even destroy it. Typical K values for medium-sized spark-gap Tesla coil are between 0.1 and 0.18. Coupling can be adjusted by changing the height of the primary coil, relative to the secondary coil (or vice-versa).
Regarding spark gap electrode materials, there won't be any significant difference in performance between 3/8" dia copper tube, and 10mm brass tube. If these are your only choices, i'd use the copper. I think if you keep looking you can find 15mm or 20mm or 25mm copper tubing or copper pipe. It is very commonly used in industrial applications all over the world.
Examples of typical PVC "slip caps" can be seen at: However, seeing as your secondary is essentially completed, I'd just test it as-is, after installing a baffle.
Registered Member #2148
Joined: Tue Jun 02 2009, 02:22AM
Location:
Posts: 62
i see, i used javatc to determine the coupling coefficient of my coil based on what i've measured, its 0.13 to 0.14 but i will do it again with fine measurements.
My big problem now is i dont know how to attach the primary lead to the electrodes. Maybe i will wrap the hexagon shape with fabricated copper and make it really tight then i attach wires to it, What do you think?. and actually it is not really that sharp, about 1.5 mm. thick but maybe i will make it to 3-4mm
Registered Member #30
Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
Last chance to resize those images before I delete them, also please stop double and triple posting (read the forum rules again: 48 hours since last post AND you have new information)
Edit: thanks for removing the oversized pics. hint: if you upload them using the forum's own attachment facility, you can upload any size pics and it will thumbnail them for you. You can only do this when creating a post though, not when you come back to edit it.
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