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I bought Bullet Proof Glass... and I am testing it

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Hon1nbo
Sat Sept 12 2009, 04:37AM
Hon1nbo Registered Member #902 Joined: Sun Jul 15 2007, 08:17PM
Location: North Texas
Posts: 1040
here are some photos of the pane shot with a Remington .223 from an AR-15 Rifle - bullet did damage, but did not penetrate

I do not have the other pieces of glass photographed yet, lighting is an issue in making them look right, then they have to be touched up to maintain their 3D visual... then it still is not like real life!


1252730077 902 FT73551 Cimg3513 Alpha Copy

1252730077 902 FT73551 Cimg3516 Alpha Copy

1252730077 902 FT73551 Cimg3526 Alpha Copy

1252730077 902 FT73551 Bp Glass 223 Hdr Beta Copy
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Dr. Slack
Sat Sept 12 2009, 07:32AM
Dr. Slack Registered Member #72 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:29AM
Location: UK St. Albans
Posts: 1659
Can you prepare some stereo pairs of photos for real 3D?

I did this while ago when I was selling a "dinged" bike frame on the net. No matter how I lit and photographed the damage, it never got the effect over, and I was worried the guy was going to get the frame and say "hey, this dent is worse than you told me". Finally I took two photos from slightly different angles, and and displayed them side by side, common features 50-60mm apart. You get close to the screen and view one with each eye (oldies like me with no accomodation will need very strong reading glasses at this point, a few £$Eur from your library), and relax your eyes until the two images snap into one. The effect is quite dramatic when it happens. It can take a while to get there though, as you are asking your lenses to focus at 150mm or so, and your eyes to converge at infinity.

Once you get the hang of the technique, you can manipulate the 3D effect by taking pairs of photos at different angular separations. It can be easier to use a tripod for the camera, and rotate the object a little between shots. You can even get a false but interesting effect by keeping object and camera still, and moving the lighting direction between shots. With objects with optical depth like your bullet damage, that could be worth trying.
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Chris Russell
Sat Sept 12 2009, 02:20PM
Chris Russell ... not Russel!
Registered Member #1 Joined: Thu Jan 26 2006, 12:18AM
Location: Tempe, Arizona
Posts: 1052
Dr. Slack wrote ...
It can take a while to get there though, as you are asking your lenses to focus at 150mm or so, and your eyes to converge at infinity.

That's wall-eyed viewing. I am one of those people who simply cannot do it. My eyes will not focus that way. Thankfully, you can use the same technique cross-eyed, and it is trivial to convert a wall-eyed stereo image into a cross-eyed pair. Simply cross your eyes until the two images overlap, then allow them to come into focus. The effect really is quite striking. I'm sure it would bring out some of the missing detail in these photographs.
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Steve Conner
Sun Sept 13 2009, 07:42PM
Steve Conner Registered Member #30 Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
I can't do the wall-eyed thing either. I spent most of the 1990s wondering what the deal was with those magic-eye stereograms.

I eventually figured out that I could see them if I wore my reading glasses and crossed my eyes in the way that Chris describes, but the 3-D effect was probably the opposite of what "normal" people saw.

Tron Legacy in Imax 3D anyone? cheesey
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Hon1nbo
Thu Dec 17 2009, 07:48PM
Hon1nbo Registered Member #902 Joined: Sun Jul 15 2007, 08:17PM
Location: North Texas
Posts: 1040
well, being as that Aaron Brothers owed me a lot of free work (put it this way, problems have still prevented them from finishing a piece I gave them in February, it is now December) - so I got the panels framed for free! - here is the first one, while I wait to mount the others
Also, I am putting these into our school's art festival, along with the video footage from the gun range on a digital frame with them - I also thought about putting some Edge lighting in the frames, which I told the framer to leave room for


1261079289 902 FT73551 Cimg6373

1261079289 902 FT73551 Cimg6381
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Download
Fri Dec 18 2009, 12:28AM
Download Registered Member #561 Joined: Sat Mar 03 2007, 02:46AM
Location: Adelaide Australia
Posts: 230
You really should've started with the 9mm as it has the least energy.
9mm then .44 then shotgun then .308
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rp181
Fri Dec 18 2009, 12:49AM
rp181 Registered Member #1062 Joined: Tue Oct 16 2007, 02:01AM
Location:
Posts: 1529
what gun/projectile was used for that? Energy of impact?
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Hon1nbo
Fri Dec 18 2009, 01:26AM
Hon1nbo Registered Member #902 Joined: Sun Jul 15 2007, 08:17PM
Location: North Texas
Posts: 1040
Download wrote ...

You really should've started with the 9mm as it has the least energy.
9mm then .44 then shotgun then .308

this was only a single shot - 9mm, and none of the panels except for one took more than one bullet, that one we started with a .357 and after three shots with literally no effect, we upgraded

the panel broke but the bullet did NOT penetrate - these panels are supposed to fail before the bullet goes through (e.g. they'll fall apart but take the bullet with them)

also we hit it a little too close to the edge, and the material was also unframed when shot on top of being weakened from horrendous cutting (we were kinda lazy with it all I must admit when we made the one foot square pieces)

also the panels were not restricted from moving very well, and the saw-horse mounts in particular broke after a few shots and the handgun panels fell to the ground right after being hit, causing a little more damage

@rp181

as for the energy, I do not know what specific load was used - I'll check the shells that I kept for mounting, but I do not have them right now
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