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Registered Member #1157
Joined: Thu Dec 06 2007, 12:11PM
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 307
Brass balls don't break out too easily because of their shape. Sharp things give the arc a chance to jump better.
The safety gap starts out being really close so you get an arc, then you slowly back the shafts off till it just barely doesn't break out. Remember, you don't really want it to arc unless it is needed.
You shouldn't have to get them too close to arc, but with round things, it is closer than with something like a bare wire.
How close do you have to get the balls before they arc?
Registered Member #1772
Joined: Tue Oct 21 2008, 05:23AM
Location: Athens, OH
Posts: 71
To get it to arc reliably and without getting it started with the nail, they have to be about a half centimeter. If I trigger it with the stick, i can spread them a couple of centimeters.
Maybe I'm having trouble because these brass balls are brand new and have such a smooth surface. The old ones weren't quite as polished.
Registered Member #1157
Joined: Thu Dec 06 2007, 12:11PM
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 307
oucivileng wrote ...
To get it to arc reliably and without getting it started with the nail, they have to be about a half centimeter. If I trigger it with the stick, i can spread them a couple of centimeters.
Maybe I'm having trouble because these brass balls are brand new and have such a smooth surface. The old ones weren't quite as polished.
Man, it's been a long week, I really meant millimeters when I wrote centimeters up there. It sounds as if your gap might be working okay. From what I know, 1 mm = 1kv as far as arc jump I'm kinda crummy at the metric system , so I fed you the wrong info up there.
Registered Member #1772
Joined: Tue Oct 21 2008, 05:23AM
Location: Athens, OH
Posts: 71
no worries. I knew what you meant. So should i set my safety gap to just beyond where it will arc reliably, where it only will arc sometimes if i turn it on and off, or where i can trigger it with the nail?
Registered Member #1157
Joined: Thu Dec 06 2007, 12:11PM
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 307
To where it just barely arcs, then just a little bit farther away. That way any back feed goes into the safety gap and to ground, not back into your NST.
Registered Member #480
Joined: Thu Jul 06 2006, 07:08PM
Location: North America
Posts: 644
oucivileng -
Two questions:
1. What is the diameter of your brass balls? The breakdown voltage of a spherical electrode spark gap is directly dependent on the radius of curvature of the electrodes. The larger the radius, the higher the breakdown voltage.
2. Are you sure that the balls are bare metal, and not protected by a thin layer of varnish as an anti-tarnish treatment? If there is any question, thoroughly clean the balls with steel wool or #400 wet-or-dry sandpaper.
Registered Member #1886
Joined: Sun Dec 28 2008, 02:55AM
Location:
Posts: 73
Herr Zapp wrote ...
oucivileng -
Two questions:
1. What is the diameter of your brass balls? The breakdown voltage of a spherical electrode spark gap is directly dependent on the radius of curvature of the electrodes. The larger the radius, the higher the breakdown voltage.
2. Are you sure that the balls are bare metal, and not protected by a thin layer of varnish as an anti-tarnish treatment? If there is any question, thoroughly clean the balls with steel wool or #400 wet-or-dry sandpaper.
Regards, Herr Zapp
If they had any varnish on them it would have already burned off in the first arc and you would have noticed it.
Registered Member #102
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:15PM
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 169
Did you ever test the resistance of the secondary sections? I didn't see a reply for that. if not, that should be your first test... I'm not too sure about the resistance you should have but I do know it will be lower then a few MegOhm. If either or both secondaries has a really high resistance then it's a safe bet that you have burned the winding out.
On another note, the balls will infact have to be very close in comparison to a sharp object to get "breakdown"
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