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4hv.org :: Forums :: Tesla Coils
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copper clad thickness for full bridge

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StevenCaton
Tue Jan 06 2009, 07:32PM
StevenCaton Registered Member #1845 Joined: Fri Dec 05 2008, 05:38AM
Location: California
Posts: 211
Of course, you have to make sure you route and layout everything correctly to take advantage of the layer to layer coupling.
Well, there won't be any layer to layer coupling because the board I have only has one side coated with 1/64 inch of Cu. So everything will be on the surface. There seems to be a general consensus that 1/64 will work fine (as far as the thickness goes), so I'll stick with it. I'm going to mark the bridge traces out with one of those etchant pens, then dip the thing in the etchant chemical. I've never done this before so hopefully I get it right.

What's all the talk about "double sided" pcb's. Wouldn't it be better and simpler to have just a single sided pcb that has adequate thickness. Also, one wouldn't have to worry about connecting the layers on top and bottom.

Are double sided pcb's preferable for cost? For example, is it usually cheaper to get a board with 1/64 inch of Cu on each side, than a board that has 1/32 on the top?


EDIT: I just realized that double sided pcb's would most likely be preferable when using IGBT's because the IGBT's are usually mounted UNDER the board, and the other components are mounted on top (like the lytics, TVS's etc.) This would facilitate construction.
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Tom540
Tue Jan 06 2009, 07:40PM
Tom540 Banned on 3/17/2009.
Registered Member #487 Joined: Sun Jul 09 2006, 01:22AM
Location:
Posts: 617
SteveC wrote ...

Of course, you have to make sure you route and layout everything correctly to take advantage of the layer to layer coupling.
Well, there won't be any layer to layer coupling because the board I have only has one side coated with 1/64 inch of Cu. So everything will be on the surface. There seems to be a general consensus that 1/64 will work fine (as far as the thickness goes), so I'll stick with it. I'm going to mark the bridge traces out with one of those etchant pens, then dip the thing in the etchant chemical. I've never done this before so hopefully I get it right.

What's all the talk about "double sided" pcb's. Wouldn't it be better and simpler to have just a single sided pcb that has adequate thickness. Also, one wouldn't have to worry about connecting the layers on top and bottom.

Are double sided pcb's preferable for cost? For example, is it usually cheaper to get a board with 1/64 inch of Cu on each side, than a board that has 1/32 on the top?


I'm pretty sure that if your board is actually 11oz of copper then you will have an insanely hard time etching it properly. IN fact a single sided board at 1oz would even be sufficeint. that reminds me. My second SSTC which used a full bridge of mini brick 48 amp fets with voltage doubler used a single sided PCB 1oz copper. It was an interrupted SSTC. All connections were floods and it was more than sufficient. Hope that helps.

-Tom
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StevenCaton
Tue Jan 06 2009, 07:44PM
StevenCaton Registered Member #1845 Joined: Fri Dec 05 2008, 05:38AM
Location: California
Posts: 211
Maybe I should just mark the paths I want with a pen and cut the Cu that I don't want with a razor blade?

I'm not sure If 1/64 is too thick for my etchant. Im sure the etchant's container probably says the max thickness it could be used for.
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ConKbot of Doom
Tue Jan 06 2009, 08:24PM
ConKbot of Doom Registered Member #509 Joined: Sat Feb 10 2007, 07:02AM
Location:
Posts: 329
Do you have a link to the source of the heavy copperclad?
11oz sounds awfully heavy, and I would expect you to have severe problems with undercutting as it etches.

CNC milling would probably be the prefered way to make the board. If youre doing the power section only on that heavy PCB(not anything too fine), I'd give it a shot using toner transfer to give yourself a guide, and use a penknife to cut out the traces, and then peel off the undesired ones.

If its giving you any difficulty, you can always use a beefy soldering iron to overheat the glue on the copper to be removed and then peel from there.

I use my soldering iron set to 800F to heat and then lift unused holes on pad per hole designs where I need the extra clearance.
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Mathias
Tue Jan 06 2009, 08:45PM
Mathias Registered Member #1381 Joined: Fri Mar 07 2008, 05:24PM
Location: Hungary
Posts: 74
Now really

You can get away with point to point wiring even at higher frequencies (normaly tesla coils don't run in the Ghz range)
The rule of thumb is if the wire lenght is shorter then the 1/10 of the amplied wavelengths then this can't really cause any problems.
"low" Inductance is crucial at high currents (by "high" i mean kiloAmpers), but a few more hunded nH wont really matter normaly ...

With the thickness of the conductors all you really do is to lover the series resistance of the circuit (on the order of milli or micro ohms) when large current flows the wires will dissipate R*I^2 watts , that results in heat. That can damge the pcb or the wire's insulation. But again a few watts wont melt the pcb nor the wire.


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