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Registered Member #15
Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
[quote] Thanks, Stupid question session I just got another beautiful set of boards for the 2nd coil. They came in one piece, how do you normally separate them? (snap, shears, dremel, bandsaw? the set I got 2nd hand were already separated) [/quote]
Just cut them out with tin shears and then put each board in a vise separately and file down the via breakaway areas. Very simple and very fast.
wrote ...
How should the Minibrute respond.
PW stronger popping PRF higher rate Variac small to long sparks up to ~30-35% then stops
Not sure what you mean by this.
wrote ...
I can up the pw then the OC light comes on, can get it to turn off by upping the prf, to a point then it comes back on. If I up the PRF 80-95% is when the coil really starts to kick but then the 6.3a fuse evaporates. Should the OC light come on? I have been trying to set it so it just barely flickers. (U21 pin 2 @ 2.588v) I shouldn't have to turn it up that high, should I?
Assuming everything is tuned and you have a good tuning point (as described in my tuning method article), the areas where OC will activate most often:
1. Very low PRF 2. Higher variac voltage
With low PRF, you have much more time between bursts, so your DC bus voltage charges up to a higher voltage which leads to more current being driven into the primary. With higher variac voltage, you directly increase the DC bus voltage.
If you are running low PRFs, it should come on quite a bit.
I usually run my coils at about 75% variac voltage (on a 0-140VAC variac) and never more than this. I get 4 ft+ arcs. My OC is set to activate if i go over 75% voltage setting.
Also, you will blow a 6.3A fuse with higher PRF. Higher PRF means higher duty cycle. 200Hz will draw about 2x the power as 100Hz, etc... Use a 10-20A fuse.
wrote ...
I checked the advanced modulator I think it's correct (if I read the scope right it tops out around 275 and 100ms in the correct area on the dial)
I believe that I am messing up or have a messed up IC's when checking them.(u2 is suspect) I went through several U1's (my variable voltage source is a little too variable I accidently sent 20V through the isense twice setting the display(very touchy dial at that load.)
If things don't work right this time around I am going to try replacing all the chips at once.
This weekend I have the right fuses and spare parts.
Take your time. You shouldn't be blowing up any ICs.
Registered Member #1828
Joined: Sat Nov 29 2008, 03:00PM
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Posts: 55
Am I reading this correctly, R124-126 should connect to the +DCSupply term on the Half Bridge board and go to the + (right side as viewed from the printed side) HVSample on the control board. A plain wire should go from the -DCSupply term on the Half Bridge board and go to the left HVSample on the control board. I never did get things working correctly on the other minibrute hv charge led. (the Right side of CR5 got hot and burned through the board twice)
I think I know what is happening when testing the HV charge led on the latest board. I am hooking up 15V to the HVsample term. (jumper from U62 and GND) When I turn on the main power the led blinked on for a second. I see 15V @ pin 1 U42 and nothing @ pin 2. Am I blowing the led in U42 by not having a resistor in the 15V? (If I jumper pin 4-5 U42 the hv charge led lights.)
Registered Member #1828
Joined: Sat Nov 29 2008, 03:00PM
Location:
Posts: 55
Ok, back to basics. (referencing my issues from the Xenosonic thread with the IGBT's blowing)
Went back and started rechecking everything in the safety circuits.
Set the current limit back to 300A, shuts down properly. but the led didn't light.(never did) reversed the led, and reset the current limit to pin 2 5V(~475A?) Went back to checking the LEDs in the display board. (resoldered several times.)
Both boards ended up the same way to get the LED's to light
I hope this makes sense, the column on the left is what the silkscreen shows, the column on the right is the way the led's ended up working (assuming D63-64 as being in correctly)
Why would the D81,21,121 be reversed to work?
Is this correct, or do I have something else crossed up somewhere? Where should I be looking?
also, I have the same problem with both setups. If I mount the temp sensor on the heatsink, once I start turning up the Variac, the overtemp led will light (on the red coil it would shut it down, I haven't taken the green one up much yet with the new igbts.) It doesn't do this if the sensor isn't touching the heatsink
(Note, I am using arctic silver heatsink compound which may be conductive to electricity)
nothing else besides the IGBT's are connected to the heatsink, I tried routing the wires on both sides of the control board/heatsink and putting braided sleeve on the wires for the sensor, same result.
Registered Member #15
Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
Just some advice. Take the time to learn each subcircuit and how everything is connected. ie. For the LEDS, take some time and trace the circuits, understand them, and look at how they're installed on the board. They're very rudimentary LED circuits.
IMHO, unless you understand each and every component in the entire design, you should stop what your doing, spend a week learning it, and then go back to your building / testing.
wrote ...
Is this correct, or do I have something else crossed up somewhere? Where should I be looking?
Learn the circuit. Thats the best advice i can give. If you don't understand how something works, just post some questions and we'll do our best to help you out.
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Help needed with MiniBrute
