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Registered Member #162
Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 10:25AM
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 3140
First ensure that the wire is 'solderable', 'tin' the wire where you intend to make the joint first then do any mechanical adjustments, then solder. Plastic film capacitors don't like to be overheated, so a heat-clip, or in my case a pair of long-nose pliers, between the cap and the soldering is best. If not just be quick. For a temperature controlled soldering iron - more watts = better ... always.
Registered Member #1403
Joined: Tue Mar 18 2008, 06:05PM
Location: Denmark, Odense C
Posts: 1968
As people mentioned, I usually sand leads if they aren't clean and hold components together with those "robots" with 2 arms and a magnifying glass that is always in the way :D
Registered Member #15
Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
Mattski wrote ...
Another useful tip is to make a good mechanical connection before you solder. This ensures that it is stable while soldering, there's lots of surface area for solder to adhere to, and it will end up being a stronger joint. A simple way is to bend the lead of each part back into a "V" shape, interlock the two V's, then twist the ends around so that can't slip apart (if that makes sense). Of course, the better that you do this the harder desoldering will be without resorting to the wire cutters.
Yep, what he said. Simply soldering two leads together (side by side for example) is not a good technique. You need to have a mechanical connector before soldering such as twisting the leads together, or wrapping them around each other etc...
Solder is meant for an ELECTRICAL connection only and shouldn't be used for the actual mechanical support / connection.
Not to say it can't be done, but it will be easier if you make your mechanical connections first.
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Question on soldering
