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Forums
4hv.org :: Forums :: Tesla Coils
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Odd SRSG behavior

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coillah
Sat Nov 15 2008, 06:53AM
coillah Registered Member #1517 Joined: Wed Jun 04 2008, 06:55AM
Location: Chico CA
Posts: 304
OK,

my setup:
15kv 30ma NST 450W
7.5nF CDE 40kv DC rating

1800 RPM Terry Blake spark gap at 120 bps with a starting cap attached.

A little update, I decided to turn the coil on with the variac already set to the appropriate voltage, so the motor and the power turn on at the same time. It seems to have fixed the problem.

Also my MMC cable was slowly slipping out of the crimp sleeve cheesey Anyways I managed to get a more consistent firing and put an CFL on top and got to see it light up!

I displayed it to my physics club buddies and they think its so cool they're gonna have me do a talk on it in a week!

all right guys, if you have anymore suggestions let me know! thanks!
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Hazmatt_(The Underdog)
Sun Nov 16 2008, 01:23AM
Hazmatt_(The Underdog) Registered Member #135 Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 12:06AM
Location: Anywhere is fine
Posts: 1735
cap value looks good.

Might want to go back and solder your crimps for more reliability.

But sounds good.
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coillah
Mon Nov 17 2008, 07:58PM
coillah Registered Member #1517 Joined: Wed Jun 04 2008, 06:55AM
Location: Chico CA
Posts: 304
I am recoating the secondary for more insulation, hopefully it will prevent the racing sparks and arcing, I am going per every 5 coats...

I wanted to double check on setting the safety gap, I just hook it up to the transformer alone, then test to see where it breaks, set it a hair wider, and then call it?
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Anon01
Mon Nov 17 2008, 10:50PM
Anon01 Registered Member #1589 Joined: Sun Jul 13 2008, 06:40PM
Location:
Posts: 70
I am also using Terry's design of gap, using a 14" dia rotor, 1800 RPM 1/25HP 480BPS (Identical motor to yours). Rotor material is 3/16" brass, and the rotor terminals are 3/16" tungsten, while the stationary terminals are 1/8" tungsten. The block I use to mount the rotor to the motor is two 1/2" HDPE blocks milled to fit the shaft of the motor and a groove to fit the rod in perpendicularly to the shaft. Link2

In my setup, I have a 10/3 cable going to my power relays, I attach the motor to the line(One side of 120V to ground) before it goes into the relay, so as long as 240 is on from the breaker, the motor could have power, depending if the motor switch is on via controller. The power to the relays are controlled by a key switch and a normally on momentary switch in series. That being said, I flip the motor switch on, wait for it to rev up to 1800RPM, I put the key in and close the switch to turn the power to coil on.

Thanks,
Sam.
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