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Registered Member #89
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145
Dont say sorry for nothing It is true that lego's gears arent really fine enough to make precise movements, so head moves in small irregular 'steps'. Wire stacks turn to turn and stack must grow mm or two before it finally overlaps. So if head makes steps of each 1mm it can actually do the job. I would need sometihng far better than lego to really make one step 0.1mm or less, but this is not needed to actually wind a decent secondary.
Registered Member #64
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:25AM
Location: Southampton, UK
Posts: 68
I get some pretty fine resolution on the gearing for my Lego diamagnetic levitation jig using worm gears. It works out that 3 revolutions of a wheel lifts a bismuth block by 1mm. The movement is smooth, unless the wheel needs to be turned the opposite direction when some slack has to be taken up first.
The worm gears are part no. 4716 and can be ordered from lego.com for about £0.22 each + delivery.
Registered Member #49
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 04:05AM
Location: Bigass Pile of Penguins
Posts: 362
Also you can use a spring to load the travel part against the gears in a one direction. So long as you dont apply fore torque than the spring can resist, you'll nearly eliminate any play in the system.
Registered Member #27
Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 02:20AM
Location: Hyperborea
Posts: 2058
Sometime during the previous century I made a LEGO drum scanner that used a winch to drag the photodiode along the drum. By using the method Andrew mentions I was able to make it perfectly smooth.
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