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Registered Member #1361
Joined: Thu Feb 28 2008, 10:57AM
Location: Cairns, Australia
Posts: 305
I had 2 NST's that worked fine for about 10 seconds, then just only arc'ed a little bit. I even unpotted one, and found no GFI at all. Maybe I just had dud NST's :/
Registered Member #1630
Joined: Sat Aug 09 2008, 11:36AM
Location: Seoul Korea
Posts: 115
coillah wrote ...
According to the auction the transformer has no GFI:
And it worked at one point... So I don't know what gives...
hmm, weird... Does it have anything else in the transformer box? What is the xmfr's VA rating?... it could be a cap problem? Please take a picture of it and post it...
Registered Member #1630
Joined: Sat Aug 09 2008, 11:36AM
Location: Seoul Korea
Posts: 115
coillah wrote ...
yeah. Oh well, my franceformer is on the way.
Sorry to hear that it was used.. ah well maybe that's why. I hope your Franceformer is higher current and performs better, (actually works)
I guess I have been lucky to get my XMFRs for free as they are now NO LONGER allowed to use ones without GFis on commerical property due to new regulations. So, the companies are only to happy to be rid of them as they get stock piled and cost money to dispose of or add the GFI to.
Registered Member #1630
Joined: Sat Aug 09 2008, 11:36AM
Location: Seoul Korea
Posts: 115
Well I don't know if this GFI rule is in the US or not, but sure is in Canada! It makes for cheaper TCing :) ... Actually I think 2 HPF xmfrs were $20, because they were purchased recently, but the NPFCs are free as they are almost 5 years old.
Banned on 3/17/2009. Registered Member #487
Joined: Sun Jul 09 2006, 01:22AM
Location:
Posts: 617
Seoul_lasers wrote ...
Tom540 wrote ...
MOT_man wrote ...
Solvent base clear coat ONLY. Urethane --- NEVER water based products! + it dries faster!
Ive tried water based varnish before and the only problem i had with it is it wasn't as durable. Other that that it works fine.
You are very very lucky, often moisture get caught under the sec winding and can cause a flashover/shorted winding. Actually i use either Urathane varnish (crystal clear coat) (get it at a paint store) and or 2 part epoxy compound. I usually spray XMFR enamel on the windings to hold them then epoxy the secondary as I did on my last coil. I do about 3 layers on my coil. The dielectric strength is great.
I dont know about lucky but as long as its completely dry it should be fine if there's water still in it or under it than it wouldn't be considered totally dry. The water based stuff actually is easier to get a nice looking finish but it can be peeled off and after a few years it starts to crack. I wouldn't recommend it anyway. The furniture epoxy cant be beat.
Registered Member #1517
Joined: Wed Jun 04 2008, 06:55AM
Location: Chico CA
Posts: 304
This thread shall be known as the UBER thread on SGTC's. Why? Because I am going to probably cover all that stuff that really bugs noobs, because I am one.
OK new questions guys. I am forming the primary today, I cut small strips of lexan and drilled holes for the 1/4" tubing. I started winding yesterday and I broke two of the lexan strips on the third turn.
I ran a search for help with winding the primary and found one thread that described a few tips to help me along. But for the most part I gathered that winding the primary is a pain and I just have to get through it. Do you have any tips for me?
Also, what should I use to clean the copper once its wound? Simple green?
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