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Registered Member #477
Joined: Tue Jun 20 2006, 11:51PM
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 546
DaJJHman wrote ...
I use copper tubing (not pipe) for my primary needs, which are zero now since the EM spikes keep frying things, and the cage I made must of had a leak... [hint] - I set off all the surge protectors in the house, fried two cellphones
The probable "leak" (which is actually about the only thing you really need to get right in most cases) is your filtering and grounding (or, rather, the lack thereof) on the AC line feeding your Tesla coil. A cage will keep the streamers from directly striking things you care about, but unless you're building a truly monstrous coil, I expect actual radiation will be a very minor component of your total RF challenge.
Registered Member #902
Joined: Sun Jul 15 2007, 08:17PM
Location: North Texas
Posts: 1040
after the event, one of the cellphones that still worked was able to get a signal... not a good sign, but my guess is that since I did not use an inverter for this coil, the AC line might have been where the leak was, or the "door"... but it is long gone, so I can't go back and check... now I use a Husky Power pack to feed my coils, it has voltage spike protection, an AC out, and a 12V DC out so it works for most of my needs, and if it fries it isn't hard to replace, unlike the HDTV that luckily had a power conditioner installed a week before that apparently absorbed the spike...
however, I think you are right and it went back up the line due to faulty grounding (and our house has two lines, and only one half had surge stuff go off... but I know EM was leaking b/c one of the cellphones that fried was mine which was in my pocket when it fried...
Registered Member #1523
Joined: Sat Jun 07 2008, 02:05PM
Location:
Posts: 97
alright.....
secondary+toroid -built
primary -built
capacitors -built
spark gap -built
Now I just need to get my NST + fitler. (still havn't ordered them. WIll soon)
But, I still have questions.
how do I know when my coil is tuned?
what should I set my spark gaps too? (both main spark gaps, and two filter gaps)
what keeps the secondary from hitting the primary? I'm not talking about a spark from the toroid, becaous a strike rail stops that. But I am talking about sparks that come off of the secondary ITSELF, that spark to the primary...if you know what I mean. (I heard something about coupling?)
also, what happens if my primary's first coil is too close to my secondary? (this is not an answer to my last question, becouse at this voltage, my primary would have to be feet away not to get shocked)
what is a variac? do I need one?
also, I couldn't solder my primary!! lol. I used a torch to try to heat up what i was soldering, and the solder didn't stick. I wound up using a peice of copper pipe to "crimp" my primary coil together, it should work just fine.
once agian, thnxs for all your information. I couldn't build this coil with out it.
Registered Member #160
Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 02:07AM
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 938
EvilTesla-RG wrote ...
how do I know when my coil is tuned?
what should I set my spark gaps too? (both main spark gaps, and two filter gaps)
what keeps the secondary from hitting the primary? I'm not talking about a spark from the toroid, becaous a strike rail stops that. But I am talking about sparks that come off of the secondary ITSELF, that spark to the primary...if you know what I mean. (I heard something about coupling?)
also, what happens if my primary's first coil is too close to my secondary? (this is not an answer to my last question, becouse at this voltage, my primary would have to be feet away not to get shocked)
what is a variac? do I need one?
The coil is tuned when you get maximum spark length. It is out of tune when you get no streamers and there is a lot of noise (current) going through the spark gap.
Set the safety gaps using the NST alone. Adjust it to spark when it is on, and slowly wind it out until it just doesn't spark when you turn it on. This way, the gap should go off when the voltage rises above the NST rating.
The gap between the inner turn of the primary and the secondary should be about an inch or more. If you get a spark between the primary and secondary it will probably damage your secondary. Raise the coil to adjust the coupling and this will solve the problem.
A variac is a brand name of a variable transformer where you can adjust the output from 0-260V or whatever it is in the U.S. It really helps to have one, make sure it is rated for the current you will be passing through it.
don't use rolled caps they suck i made 2 large ones for my coil and got 2X the output with the same value with wine bottle caps they perform almost as well as a MMC,, they are just large and heavy
Registered Member #1779
Joined: Sat Oct 25 2008, 11:05AM
Location:
Posts: 32
I had experimented with different primary coils, both the 1/4 inch copper pipe and 12awg wire. For smaller coils above 12inch secondary, the 12awg wire works the best. I think this was because my 1/4 inch copper pipe was bent really badly Hehe. A way to tune my tesla with the 12awg wire is by using a soldering iron to burn holes in the wire at different tap points and using a small scissor to cut around the hole to make it larger and use a big crocodile clip to tap the primary.
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