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Registered Member #1408
Joined: Fri Mar 21 2008, 03:49PM
Location: Oracle, AZ
Posts: 679
I'm not sure if it was at the AZ Teslathon...but I think I remember hearing about someone putting together a seriously large coil using a large pig... (I wasn't there but there was a post about all the really BIG STUFF)...
At THAT level of power, wouldn't the frequency/power of a coil (the size of a battleship from the looks of that thing) interfere with a whole neighborhood (or acreage, if rural)? Where I'm going with this is that since even a moderate size coil can run riot with radio signal; would not something of THAT size act like a "Jammer" or the type that th Soviets used against Radio Free Europe in the 1960's?
And on a serious note, if this is possible, wouldn't that be a concern for emergency services located in proximity?
I'm not making any back sided criticism, I'm actually just curious.
Registered Member #1107
Joined: Thu Nov 08 2007, 10:09PM
Location:
Posts: 792
Were i live i have no neighbors but i still dont think it would interfere that much with communications because think about lightning that is over 500x more powerful and it doesent mess with anything to much.
Registered Member #15
Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
dingo27 wrote ...
i will never ever touch that (even if i coud get money )...
what is HV output and input? i am interested, because i never heared about that. Is it some kind of HV transformer?
If you touch the output of a pole transformer, if you are lucky, you'll die instantly. Otherwise, its going to blow your arm right off.
Also, regarding Power Factor correction, its not really needed with the pole transformer. Again, as someone said, if you are running a pole transformer, then you are running it off a 240VAC line that is sized for lots of current (i.e. 50A or 100A line)
PFC is typically on used for NSTs where you are running on household 15A or 20A lines.
Registered Member #477
Joined: Tue Jun 20 2006, 11:51PM
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 546
Nice looking tranny. Pole pigs are good for all kinds of mischief, but beeeeeeee careful!
There are lots of things you can do for a beefier ballast, as you've probably read, and as others have commented:
It used to be that you could just grab two 500ft rolls of #10 wire off the shelf at Home Depot or a similar store here in the U.S., put them both in series with you pig, and you'd be all set for short 9-10kVA runs (resistive component gets in the way a bit with 1000ft of wire). Now the copper prices make that approach a bit prohibitive. I think it would cost most of $200 now! If you have that kind of money to spend on your ballast, you might consider fetching (and possibly modifying) a large variac to ballast your pig, which is what I have lately done.
Shorted MOTs work well too, and MOTs (in microwaves) can often be found on Craig's List in the Free Stuff category, so all you have to do is pay for gas Shorted NSTs work fine too, but then if they're the right voltage, it would probably be easier to power your coil with them than with a pig! Still, that would be a fine way to test your pig. Many coilers ballast pigs with shorted arc welders. The old "Buzz Box" kind work great. Not the modern DC kind.
Another DIY approach is sliding chokes. A friend of mine here in Seattle ballasts his big coil that way. Some people go to a lot of trouble to build the cores of their sliding chodes. My friend just uses ceiling wire taped in a bundle. It does get warm, but not prohibitively so. His sliding choke consists of two layers of #6 AWG wire on a 4"x3' section of PVC (approximately), and will do 100A for short periods with all the core material withdrawn. We've made some fantastic Jacob's ladders that way!
As I mentioned in an earlier post in this topic, I started out with resistive ballasts, which are usually the easiest to buy/build, but are certainly less efficient, power-wise. Small space heaters work fine. I did my first pig coiling using a plastic garbage can full of water as a ballast, and that worked great. The water did get quite warm after a while, but I think I paid < $30 to build that ballast with all new parts, and it worked fine up into the 7.5kVA range (more would have been possible with different electrode spacing).
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