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Registered Member #1829
Joined: Sun Nov 30 2008, 01:06AM
Location: Raleigh N.C.
Posts: 74
Yeah, the brass is supposed to act as a ground plane. Because this is a battery powered coil, there's not any connection to the real world ground and without any ground plane the secondary capacitance is way too low. I suppose I could improve the energy characteristics by cutting a circle or some slits in the plane underneath the coil itself if I do another revision. As far as the breadboard goes, I haven't seen any problems on the HV side of the CW generator. The gap only fires at about 1.5 to 2 mm or less and I think the breadboard plastic has been handling that voltage pretty well. I think in the near future I might get some more cameras or possibly wind my own boost transformers for a 5 or 9 volt supply and get some custom PCBs made. Incidentally, I did a preliminary search for 'smallest tesla' hoping to find a thread for a smallest tesla coil competition and didn't see one. Has anyone seen anything like this around?
Registered Member #1551
Joined: Wed Jun 18 2008, 06:21PM
Location:
Posts: 7
On your tutorial which cap are you referring to when you say the 1nF@600V on the flash board? I think your talking about the little grey or sometimes yellow ones, Am I right?
Registered Member #1551
Joined: Wed Jun 18 2008, 06:21PM
Location:
Posts: 7
Myke wrote ...
I think those are usually 22-33nF 330V caps, right?
Well the flash caps are rated at 330 and somewhere around 120µF. But as for the silver ones which can be seen in the picture i'am not sure what they are rated at. But maybe someone else can tell us what they are rated at.
Registered Member #1733
Joined: Thu Oct 02 2008, 03:17PM
Location: Hamilton, ON, Canada
Posts: 100
Tesla C wrote ...
Well the flash caps are rated at 330 and somewhere around 120µF. But as for the silver ones which can be seen in the picture i'am not sure what they are rated at. But maybe someone else can tell us what they are rated at.
The large flash caps are 300V to 330V, and 120uF to 160uF. The caps in the multiplier (yellow or silver) are 1nF @ 200V, or 1nF @ 400V (I have seen both the 200V and 400V varieties.) and are easily damaged. Excessive heat (from de-soldering and re-soldering) has caused breakdowns between the layers, which can then be seen arcing internally.
I couldn't find my specific part numbers online, so I took one to my electronics shop, found an equivalent cap (by package) and compared the identification. They are most likely identified like 103k200 which breaks down as (iirc):
1 = (capacitance in nF) 03 = multiplier factor k = ? 200 = voltage
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Small Tesla Coil using disposable camera transformers
