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Registered Member #195
Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 08:27PM
Location: Berkeley, ca.
Posts: 1111
I am designing a fiber optic drive DRSSTC from scratch and I have enterd the stage for the primary construction. When I am ready what is the recomendation for tuning poles? I have the book "Building the modern day tesla coil" and Eastern Voltage Research said that in small ciols the primary is tuned low and does not go into larger coils. How do you guys deal with notching and large coils. If you need details of my DRSSTC let me know
Registered Member #146
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 04:21AM
Location: Austin Tx
Posts: 1055
Im sure ive explained this before, but with larger coils, i find that allowing a notch is fine (typically occurs in 6-9 cycles). The notch is then your shut off point, which maximizes efficiency overall. Its found that with big coils, you can typically drive enough energy in those 6-9 cycles to achieve good spark lengths, while little coils just cant get enough energy in that short time, so you detune very far to alter the effects of notching (it does ultimately notch, since this is a physical phenomena dealing with energy being transfered to the load).
But, you shouldnt have much to worry about designing. Make your primary have more inductance than you think you need, and then just find what tuning works best for your system since you will need to fine tune it by hand anyway.
And what exactly is meant by fiber optic drive? Just the interrupter or is the RF drive signal also by fiber?
Registered Member #195
Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 08:27PM
Location: Berkeley, ca.
Posts: 1111
thanks for the reply, I am using fiber optics to isolate 4 CM600HA-24. Each fiber runs the driver to each IGBT. I can get rise and fall times under a microsecond. Each driver uses an independent power supply (on board regulators). The same thing can be done with optos. I prefer this method to transformers because I feal it gives me more controle over the gate time. with 2 IXDD414PI I can drive the gate with less than an ohm at 28A or more.
Registered Member #89
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145
Hi! *jelaous of those beautiful bricks and drivers*
Darnit, where do you and Firkragg find this beautiful double-sided tinned donut-pad-prototype-board?
All my tinned boards are tinned on my own, they were copper before. Anyway, due to lead contet solder oxidizes after some time and still hardens the soldering... I never tried a RoHS solder yet.
Using lotlack spray would actually make soldering more easy than tinning.
I did although have some silvered and gold-plated double sided proto boards here. They are superior for soldering under any conditions! I don't have much of them left unfortunately.
Im sure ive explained this before, but with larger coils, i find that allowing a notch is fine (typically occurs in 6-9 cycles). The notch is then your shut off point, which maximizes efficiency overall. Its found that with big coils, you can typically drive enough energy in those 6-9 cycles to achieve good spark lengths, while little coils just cant get enough energy in that short time, so you detune very far to alter the effects of notching (it does ultimately notch, since this is a physical phenomena dealing with energy being transfered to the load).
I also noticed that my coil notches after just few cycles whan I tuned it for *best looking spark*. I would have to run 2 notches if I wanted 200 or so us of on time. I still need proper capacitors, calibrated CTs snd some time...
Registered Member #195
Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 08:27PM
Location: Berkeley, ca.
Posts: 1111
vector is to expensive so I use use Twin Industries [http://twinind.com/catalog.php?id=7] to do my prototype PCB's . The driver PCB is done with ExpressPCB and there free softwere package. At some point I am going to make a surface mount version of the controler. I Got 100 of the 942C caps at Richardson Electronics in two weeks
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