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Registered Member #63
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:18AM
Location:
Posts: 1425
Hehehe, I am looking for a solution (pun not intended) that will not weaken/consume/exhaust the etchant -- hence, I'm guessing, no copper or aluminium vessels?
Are there any metals safe with ammonium persulphate? I've noticed that if I tin parts of a board with lead/tin solder, then they seem very resistant to etching... of course, I can't put a tin saucepan on my stove, now.
Registered Member #509
Joined: Sat Feb 10 2007, 07:02AM
Location:
Posts: 329
BlackPlasma, I'm using a slow cooker to heat my etchant now. Using radio shack FeCl for now till I order some persulfate. The glazed ceramic in a slow cooker resists the etchant well. If I start getting into larger boards, not sure what I'm going to do, but it works well enough for now.
Registered Member #546
Joined: Fri Feb 23 2007, 11:43PM
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 239
hey PB, a "Pyrex" casserole dish and a cheapy electric hot plate from K-mart would be a much better solution than a metal pan. I'd imagine most grades of stainless woudl resist the acid for a decent amount of time, but why bother at all when a casserole dish is $5 on sale or $10 normally, and a hotplate doesn't cost more than that either. I know I didnt spend more than $20 for my warm etch bath several years ago.
Also, cover the dish to prevent evaporation of your solution....
Registered Member #193
Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 07:04AM
Location: sheffield
Posts: 1022
"I'd imagine most grades of stainless would resist the acid for a decent amount of time" I wouldn't.
Those etchants will etch most metals very satisfactorily. You might get away with some grades of stainless steel or really obscure things like tantalum but why take the risk. Glass is not expensive and it will resist these etchants for ever. A pyrex dish warmed over a pan of hot water would work nicely. (you might need a big pan for some boards).
Registered Member #530
Joined: Sat Feb 17 2007, 07:56AM
Location: Victoria BC, Canada
Posts: 178
mixing straight Muriatic acid and Hydrogen Peroxide together is actually quite dangerous. The liquids will react violently - and on metals this can destroy just about anything it touches. I saw a glass beaker (250mL) filled with Muriatic acid and 35% Hydrogen Peroxide heat up and crack the beaker and eat through an steel oil drum within seconds!! The reaction released large amounts of Chlorine.
Registered Member #1588
Joined: Sun Jul 13 2008, 05:56PM
Location:
Posts: 5
Hello everyone,I'm new to the site and have a question. I was told that if I mixed muratic acid and peroxide that I would be able to etch alumium at home for my modle cars.I also see someone above stated that this can be very dangerous.I don't know the 1st thing about chemistery.Can someone give me any info. on this.THANKS IN ADVANCE
Registered Member #1316
Joined: Thu Feb 14 2008, 03:35AM
Location: Cambridge, MA
Posts: 365
Al is eaten away extremely fast by HCl without hydrogen peroxide. However i would not advise because of the heat and the released gas that i believe to he hydrogen.
Registered Member #1630
Joined: Sat Aug 09 2008, 11:36AM
Location: Seoul Korea
Posts: 115
redd504 wrote ...
Hello everyone,I'm new to the site and have a question. I was told that if I mixed muratic acid and peroxide that I would be able to etch alumium at home for my modle cars.I also see someone above stated that this can be very dangerous.I don't know the 1st thing about chemistery.Can someone give me any info. on this.THANKS IN ADVANCE
I'll second this. Hydrogen Peroxide (35%) with HCl @ 30% is a highly unstable mixture and can start to boil on it's own, and then explode due to the heat generated ~300C. I have already experienced this several times while producing various Organic peroxides. (DON'T ASK) It can be done but you'll have to cool both to 5c or below. The reaction with Aluminum is VIOLENT and the heat generated is probably enough to start a fire. ( before this I think your containment vessel will be melted/ warped or broken. I wouldn't suggest using the mix as any sort of etchant. BTW, have you ever experienced a super hot cloud of HCl vapor? --- It is not pleasant.
Registered Member #1621
Joined: Tue Aug 05 2008, 05:26AM
Location:
Posts: 19
Sodium hydroxide (a.k.a. caustic soda) works nicely as an Al etch. Rate can be controlled by dilution. Will heat up and produce hydrogen and caustic mist so do outdoors. Keep cool with a waterbath. Just don't get any hydroxide on your skin - mind you, that applies to any of these etch methods so invest in some good rubber gloves! Won't kill you but it aint fun.
One of the difficulties with peroxide is that it is catalytically decomposed by a number of different metals or their ions ( I know iron, silver, platinum and manganese will do it at least) so any contaminants in your HCl or your mixing containers can cause trouble.
Registered Member #1630
Joined: Sat Aug 09 2008, 11:36AM
Location: Seoul Korea
Posts: 115
TwoSpoons wrote ...
Sodium hydroxide (a.k.a. caustic soda) works nicely as an Al etch. Rate can be controlled by dilution. Will heat up and produce hydrogen and caustic mist so do outdoors. Keep cool with a waterbath. Just don't get any hydroxide on your skin - mind you, that applies to any of these etch methods so invest in some good rubber gloves! Won't kill you but it aint fun.
One of the difficulties with peroxide is that it is catalytically decomposed by a number of different metals or their ions ( I know iron, silver, platinum and manganese will do it at least) so any contaminants in your HCl or your mixing containers can cause trouble.
Manganese is definately one to watch for. I think the most vilolent decomposition of H2O2 has been with Mesitylene. It will cause an instant explosion and launch the entire contents out in a geyser effect. (the two chemicals should NEVER EVER be mixed unless you want to die or get severely burned)
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Hydrogen Peroxide and Muriatic acid as an Etchant.
