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Registered Member #162
Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 10:25AM
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 3141
I killed my last remaining 'good' dmm and I bought a cheap 6000 count autoranging true rms AN8002, after reading and watching reviews. Excellent value; . very clear display w/backlight, stable readings, all ranges tested so far well within specifications e.g. Weston Cell, 1.01859 V reads as 1.017 ... one digit / 0.1 % error vs spec. of 0.5%. the capacitance range is useful and accurate. All ranges auto-zero. comes with thermocouple probe and a cute bag so you don't scratch your cute meter. Fuses on volts and amps terminals, tested on 240 Vac no problem. If you are looking for a cheap but good dmm, I recommend the AN8002 (no, I'm not getting any reward for promoting it :)
Aneng AN8002 = Zotek ZT102 = KASUNTEST ZT102 = other aliases eBay, Amazon, Banggood etc. all sell it.
There are other models in the range, e.g. the AN8008 10,000 count, 1 uV resolution BUT 10mA and 100mA ranges absent !
and for those who are interested, banggood.com ; AN8002 = £10.33/USD12.99, AN8008 = £14.13/USD17.77
Registered Member #27
Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 02:20AM
Location: Hyperborea
Posts: 2058
What kind of fuses does it use? I have a meter that is marked Cat IV that have those tiny glass fuses that will go off like a bomb if subjected to a huge short circuit current.
Registered Member #72
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:29AM
Location: UK St. Albans
Posts: 1659
Before I rush out and buy one, would you do a quick measurement for me please?
I notice it takes 2xAAA batteries. If you have a second working meter (doesn't need to be very 'good') and a variable supply to hand, at what battery voltage does (a) the low battery indicator come on and (b) the reading start going high as the internal reference collapses. I measured this for all my various meters and was quite surprised. There was a large variation in what they thought was a low battery, and more than one went wrong by many counts before the low batt indicator went on.
Registered Member #162
Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 10:25AM
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 3141
Bjørn, I have not opened up the meter (yet) but I've watched YouTube dissections; The fuses are tiny 10x3 mm ceramic. The printing on the meter is 600V CAT III, 1000V CAT II, If true then each is one category down from my Fluke 87, I think that it is ok for domestic and hobby use, but I would not want to regularly use it on 415V 3-phase supplies for example. To replace the fuses, or the range knob, of my Fluke 87, costs more than this meter, so don't expect too much. I once had a cheap dmm explode with the probes in my hands (hobby, not professionally) so the Fluke101 size and shape initially put me off, but now I like it enough to recommend it ... it's cute _________________________________________________
_________________________ Dr. Slack, Low battery indication at 2.4 V, shutdown at 2.1 V, it seemed more like an orderly shutdown than erratic chaos. What is typical ?
I only gave close-enough readings and casual observation but if it is important to you then I can measure parameters more carefully before you consider buying, but I can't be ar$£d to open it up and close it again so external measurements only please.
I'm using a Fluke87 (with a makeshift knob) for measurements, Weston Cell reads 1.018 V.
Registered Member #96
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:37PM
Location: CI, Earth
Posts: 4062
What did you do to it? My last "fried" meter recovered after all its contacts were cleaned and two bad high precision resistors changed. Its been recalibrated and seems fine.
Registered Member #162
Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 10:25AM
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 3141
Conundrum wrote ...
What did you do to it? My last "fried" meter recovered after all its contacts were cleaned and two bad high precision resistors changed. Its been recalibrated and seems fine.
Recently I lost my personal RS232-interfaced DMM at work, I may find it someday, I gained a Fluke87 from work due to a broken range knob vs repair cost vs capital writedown, my backup analogue multimeter (ex-Post Office AVO12, older than half of the members here) started to give erratic readings and I wanted a new reliable dmm, but cheaply. (I'll fix the Post Office meter and another old analogue multimeter - one day) The cheap dmm refered to was £2.99 ... on the 2000 V dc range it did not enjoy measuring a mmc of photo-flash caps above 1200 V (even parts of the probes and leads 'disappeared') So now I have the AN8002 and a Fluke87 with a makeshift knob, one missing dmm, and two faulty analogue multimeters that may never work again. I imagine that there are many meters waiting to be revived by 4HV members :)
Registered Member #72
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:29AM
Location: UK St. Albans
Posts: 1659
Sulaiman wrote ...
What is typical ?
That's what surprised me. I have several meters that take PP3 9v batteries, and the question was 'if LO BATT' is not shown, is the reading reliable?
Three things happen as the power supply reduces
(1) Lo batt gets shown.
(2) The displayed reading rises as the internal reference drops as there's insufficient voltage to keep it alive. I measured this by reading a constant input voltage (just a battery) and noting when the reading had risen by 1% as I dropped the meter supply voltage.
(3) Something goes 'wrong', perhaps the display fades, or stops updating, or is erratic, so that's it's obviously failed.
Effects 1 and 3 are visible, effect 2 is silent. The question was, in what order do they happen? One of my meters went inaccurate at 7v and showed lo batt at 6.5v, another showed lo batt at 4v and was still accurate to 3.8v. What further surprised me was the second was a very cheap meter indeed. It didn't occur to me to reduce it further to the shutdown stage. Obviously for a meter you can trust, 1 must happen before 2, and should happen before 3.
2.4v is quite a high end point for AAAs, which suggests short battery life, but as they're not as expensive as PP3s maybe that's a reasonable trade. I need to get around to replacing one of my meters anyway, and this looks as reasonable as any.
Registered Member #72
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:29AM
Location: UK St. Albans
Posts: 1659
Unfortunately a gain error doesn't show up reading 0v, that's why I did it measuring a voltage input occupying most of the full scale. In this case, a 1.5v battery on the 2v range. Of course while an AA battery is not a 'reference', it moves around a lot more slowly than a varying power supply to the meter. I used a 1% increase in reading as a limit for 'accuracy' due to reference error.
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