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Registered Member #61373
Joined: Sat Dec 17 2016, 01:45PM
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 87
Enceladus wrote ...
klugesmith,
Granted I have never tried this exact application with 1/4W resistors, but I have seen them used in high voltage applications such as connected across 1n4007 diode strings to ensure balanced voltage drops across each diode while they are blocking, as well as in small Marx generators and bleeders for TC primary cap banks. You can coddle your resistors if you like but I have never had any problems with 1/4W resistors at up to 1kV as long as I haven't exceed the power rating. Besides, they're like 5 cents. Who cares?
Also, I am well aware of how component tolerances work, but I was just trying to outline how to do it fast and dirty without it pouring smoke the second it's powered on. With 10X 1M there should be ample time to get a reading before it overheats.
It's a contradiction to label a 1M resistor as being rated for 1/4W and 250V. Ohm's law is pretty inflexible that way. It's got to be one or the other. It makes no sense to explicitly display one rating while secretly limiting the true rating to less than half of what it's supposed to be. If a 1M 1/4W resistor is not rated to dissipate any more than 1/16W, then it's not actually a 1/4W resistor at all, is it?
I honestly didn't even know there was such thing as carbon film resistor datasheets. They have no numbers or letters or insignia except the bands. How do you reference that?
I was thinking that a capacitive divider might also work too if power dissipation is that big of an issue (although I remain skeptical that it would be.) High voltage caps are usually a common item in high voltage hobbyist junk drawers. At 60Hz it's not at all difficult to get all the reactance you'd need to limit the current to a reasonable level with just 2 caps. Maybe something like a 200pF and a 1.8nF with the output taken across the 1.8nF. (Just a rough guesstimate)
Connecting several meters in series just seems ridiculous to me but it looks like thats what he wants to do. Good luck with that Scott. Hopefully you don't end up with a pile of dead meters. If you change your mind about building a divider Scott, you can PM me if you need help.
-J
The capacitive divider sounds interesting. At the moment I will make a voltage divider with a 12M Ohm and a 1.2M Ohm resistor (1 watt power rating). I will wrap them with electrical tape so they wont arc over from over-volt. It is a bit rigged, but hopefully this will give me some good readings.
Registered Member #2099
Joined: Wed Apr 29 2009, 12:22AM
Location: Los Altos, California
Posts: 1716
Go for it! We await your results.
Note 1. Looks like you chose R values to get an 11:1 voltage division. So we are both in the club of people who don't mind doing arithmetic to convert instrument readings to real values of the variable of interest.
Have you considered that 11:1 is the _unloaded_ division ratio, and that connecting your DMM will significantly change the ratio? The specs you pointed me to don't say whether the meter's input impedance on voltage ranges is 10 megohms or 1 megohm, and the difference is huge in this application. You can find out by measuring 120 VAC with and without the voltage divider -- a very simple way to calibrate the divider. Or by measuring a 9 volt battery directly, and with 1.2 meg in series with meter, and with 12 meg in series with the meter.
Voltage divider loading by the meter is also a consideration for capacitive dividers. With the C values given most recently, connecting a 1 megohm voltmeter (not uncommon at the low-cost end of DMM market) would make a high-pass filter with corner frequency of 80 Hz. You could still easily get accurate readings using the AC calibration trick given above. Waveform distortion probably isn't a big concern for you.
In either case, if you changed your low-side R or C to get division of approximately 100:1, the loading by meter would be that much less significant.
Note 2. I would skip the electrical tape. Arc-over is not the failure mode for the R's we're talking about, at these voltages. High temperatures and/or high electric fields, in the resistive layer and its junctions, lead to long-term resistance changes and increased failure rates.
Wrapping the 12M resistor with thermally-insulating tape will make it get hotter than it needs to be, if it's connected for a long time. That would call for derating the component power. Maybe not by much if the wire leads are left long, as a heat sink. Hypothetically, if that resistor were immersed in dielectric oil there'd be huge margins against arc-over and over-temperature. Then you could see whether 2,500 volts applied for a day, or for a year, makes the resistor change measurably. I bet you have no lack of MOT's!
Registered Member #61428
Joined: Sat Jan 14 2017, 12:39PM
Location:
Posts: 50
Have you considered that 11:1 is the _unloaded_ division ratio, and that connecting your DMM will significantly change the ratio? The specs you pointed me to don't say whether the meter's input impedance on voltage ranges is 10 megohms or 1 megohm, and the difference is huge in this application. You can find out by measuring 120 VAC with and without the voltage divider -- a very simple way to calibrate the divider. Or by measuring a 9 volt battery directly, and with 1.2 meg in series with meter, and with 12 meg in series with the meter.
This is a very good point and a good suggestion. When I suggested the 10X 1M divider, I had hoped that selecting low-ish values would mitigate this source of error somewhat and side-step having to consider your DVM input Z.
Voltage divider loading by the meter is also a consideration for capacitive dividers. With the C values given most recently, connecting a 1 megohm voltmeter (not uncommon at the low-cost end of DMM market) would make a high-pass filter with corner frequency of 80 Hz. You could still easily get accurate readings using the AC calibration trick given above. Waveform distortion probably isn't a big concern for you.
In either case, if you changed your low-side R or C to get division of approximately 100:1, the loading by meter would be that much less significant.
I like the 100:1 idea too.
Also I see what you're saying about the voltage ratings now. Maybe I'll check out some of these datasheets you're talking about and/or or try a few real world tests.
Registered Member #61373
Joined: Sat Dec 17 2016, 01:45PM
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 87
klugesmith wrote ...
Go for it! We await your results.
Note 1. Looks like you chose R values to get an 11:1 voltage division. So we are both in the club of people who don't mind doing arithmetic to convert instrument readings to real values of the variable of interest.
Have you considered that 11:1 is the _unloaded_ division ratio, and that connecting your DMM will significantly change the ratio? The specs you pointed me to don't say whether the meter's input impedance on voltage ranges is 10 megohms or 1 megohm, and the difference is huge in this application. You can find out by measuring 120 VAC with and without the voltage divider -- a very simple way to calibrate the divider. Or by measuring a 9 volt battery directly, and with 1.2 meg in series with meter, and with 12 meg in series with the meter.
Voltage divider loading by the meter is also a consideration for capacitive dividers. With the C values given most recently, connecting a 1 megohm voltmeter (not uncommon at the low-cost end of DMM market) would make a high-pass filter with corner frequency of 80 Hz. You could still easily get accurate readings using the AC calibration trick given above. Waveform distortion probably isn't a big concern for you.
In either case, if you changed your low-side R or C to get division of approximately 100:1, the loading by meter would be that much less significant.
Note 2. I would skip the electrical tape. Arc-over is not the failure mode for the R's we're talking about, at these voltages. High temperatures and/or high electric fields, in the resistive layer and its junctions, lead to long-term resistance changes and increased failure rates.
Wrapping the 12M resistor with thermally-insulating tape will make it get hotter than it needs to be, if it's connected for a long time. That would call for derating the component power. Maybe not by much if the wire leads are left long, as a heat sink. Hypothetically, if that resistor were immersed in dielectric oil there'd be huge margins against arc-over and over-temperature. Then you could see whether 2,500 volts applied for a day, or for a year, makes the resistor change measurably. I bet you have no lack of MOT's!
I simulated this in LT Spice, with the multimeter being 1M Ohms and 10M Ohms. The 4,200v source listed is equal to 3kV RMS. I came out with 128v RMS for the divider setup in the 1M config. When I changed the multimeter's resistance to 10M, the voltage increased to 243v RMS. I made the measurement between R1 and R3 (The multimeter).
Registered Member #2099
Joined: Wed Apr 29 2009, 12:22AM
Location: Los Altos, California
Posts: 1716
>> Would this be accurate in the real world?
Yes. The exercise can be simplified, even in LTSpice, but now's not the time for details.
You don't need to quote previous posts in their entirety, especially when they are long & verbose, like some people produce from time to time.
When you get your 12 meg 1-watt resistor, I guess it would be OK to tape it before brief trials at 2500 volts AC. If it arcs internally, across the helical groove in its resistance layer, it could still fry your meter. Please be sure to tell us if that happens.
There are several kinds of overvoltage protection shunts that could be placed in parallel with the meter. I don't know how long any can carry the short-circuit output current of a MOT. Gas tube surge arrestors, and at least some of the solid-state devices, switch to a low resistance "crowbar" state when triggered by overvoltage.
Registered Member #61373
Joined: Sat Dec 17 2016, 01:45PM
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 87
I just tried it. I first tested the voltage divider with 120v, and I got a 35:1 reduction. I tested a single MOT with no caps, and got a 94v output. The meter wouldn't give me a reading with resonant caps on. I tested the meter after to see if it was shorted out, but it still works fine. Thank you for the tips
Registered Member #2099
Joined: Wed Apr 29 2009, 12:22AM
Location: Los Altos, California
Posts: 1716
Here are some traditional high-voltage resistors on Ebay, around 10 megohms, for not much money. In my experience, the seller called bloodblister is a good guy. You could get one and stop worrying about overvolting your ordinary 1-watt resistor. Or, as everyone says, use a string of ordinary resistors.
Registered Member #2463
Joined: Wed Nov 11 2009, 03:49AM
Location:
Posts: 1546
Mr. Scott could set his meter to the highest AC voltage range and make sure auto range is off.
(1)Then connect to a voltage close to maximum. (i.e. 500 V AC)
(2) Then connect s variable resistor in series until the reading is half the first reading. (i.e. 250)
(3) Leaving the now found resistor in place, go back to step 1.
Now the source of 500 V AC reads 125. then 62,5, etc.
When 500 V AC is read as 62.5, the meters maximum range has been multiplied by 8.
The loading will be the resistance found in step 1 , which is the |Z| of the meter itself, plus all the resistors strung in series.
(4) Stop process when maximum new voltage exceeds what the highest voltage range needed becomes.
At this point,the overall |Z| in of the test gear will be the sum of the resistor value found in step 2, plus the sum of all resistors used to achieve the desired ranging.
This method does need knowledge of the meters |Z| before hand.
Or, of course, you can measure Zin for yourself. If you Google for 'how to measure input impedance of voltmeter' and similar forms of words you will find enough answers to fill a wheelbarrow.
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