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Registered Member #54503
Joined: Sun Feb 22 2015, 10:35PM
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 288
Benjamin wrote ...
I have good results with anvil studio, but I haven't figured out how to sync audio tracks to midi files yet.
OK, ill see if i can figure it out. It may be a good idea that we add a section here to share MIDI files and synced tracks so we can build up a good database to share with other builders. I will see how i get on.
The place i want to take my coil has a sound stage, so i might be able to plug in to their large PA system!
Registered Member #6038
Joined: Mon Aug 06 2012, 11:31AM
Location: Salado, TX
Posts: 248
You need the Pro-Mix Accessory Pack for Anvil Studio for this to work. The free version does not allow it. Once you have it installed, you can select each track in the midi file and which port it should output on. So if the guitar track is what you want the Tesla to play, select that track for Tesla Output. Then send the other racks to the synthesizer out port which you can then connect to the receiver or amp. Then play with the timing on the Tesla track and it should stay in sync. It's pretty slick.
I built a MIDI over ethernet module as I was getting too much interference with the USB-MIDI cable and notes kept hanging. Now I can operate the coil wirelessly from the laptop and theoretically control it from anywhere in the world over the internet - can you say GEEKY ?? With this config I actually have no lag at all between the different output ports. Have fun.
Registered Member #54503
Joined: Sun Feb 22 2015, 10:35PM
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 288
Graham Armitage wrote ...
You need the Pro-Mix Accessory Pack for Anvil Studio for this to work. The free version does not allow it. Once you have it installed, you can select each track in the midi file and which port it should output on. So if the guitar track is what you want the Tesla to play, select that track for Tesla Output. Then send the other racks to the synthesizer out port which you can then connect to the receiver or amp. Then play with the timing on the Tesla track and it should stay in sync. It's pretty slick.
I built a MIDI over ethernet module as I was getting too much interference with the USB-MIDI cable and notes kept hanging. Now I can operate the coil wirelessly from the laptop and theoretically control it from anywhere in the world over the internet - can you say GEEKY ?? With this config I actually have no lag at all between the different output ports. Have fun.
OK, i will check it out. I must say im having RF issues with my laptop from the tesla coil, how many metres should the laptop be away from the coil? I thought 5 metres would be sweet, even at low power, the laptop will lock up when playing a MIDI file.
Registered Member #54503
Joined: Sun Feb 22 2015, 10:35PM
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 288
OK, so i fried my secondary tonight!
Not all bad as i hope i should get by with removing the last 40mm or so off the bottom and re connect it at the base.
I heard a loud pop when i hit a high note and didnt think much of it until it did it two or three more times. I then saw a small spark at the base and realised what had happened. Its really weird, its blown off and shattered the lacquer in large flakes at the base and higher up above the burnt patch its expanded and buckled but with no sign of arcing.
I did notice some dark spots all over the secondary that were not there after i wound it a year ago. I dont know if this is some sort of breakdown on the varnish insulation and/or oxidization on the copper, but its well sealed with several thick coats of floor polyurethane.
Is bad earthing to blame for this? I earthed the secondary to my heatsink which is directly grounded to my main earth point that is connected to a copper water pipe in my basement, i thought this should be more than adequate, since it goes into the ground.
Any other suggestions? Should i use a higher quality wire next time (i was led to believe it was good quality)? Should i use epoxy resin instead of polyurethane?
Thanks for everyone's help, i hope i can still get it down to a mid winter arts festival next friday. I was blown away with the power the coil is putting out despite it running at roughly half its bus voltage. I stood some florescent tubes all around the coil and they were sparking from the base to the concrete, and thats without the streamers even hitting it!
I really dont know how i can continue to operate this in a residential area though, seriously its loud and i could hear dogs barking miles away, i will have alot of angry neighbours if i have this running every week lol!
Registered Member #6038
Joined: Mon Aug 06 2012, 11:31AM
Location: Salado, TX
Posts: 248
Horrible when that happens - but consider it a learning opportunity. I prefer to ground my coil to the mains earth wire. I have a gounding bus on the base and everything connects to that. You can't be sure the copper pipes in your place are grounded properly. I have never had an issue connecting to the earth wire - that way I can run my coil at most venues without an issue.
Always used Poly, as do others, when sealing the coil. Don't think that's the problem. If it's arcing at the base, the bottom of your coil is probably not at ground potential. Lucky that's all you fried. Remember that taking off 40mm of windings is going increase your Fres significantly. Good luck.
Registered Member #9879
Joined: Tue Jan 29 2013, 05:00AM
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 37
I had same problems, make sure mmc is connected to outer end of your coil and inverter connected to inside end. I also took one turn off the inner of my primary to lower the coupling. I then had to also raise the secondary another inch.
Registered Member #54503
Joined: Sun Feb 22 2015, 10:35PM
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 288
Graham Armitage wrote ...
Horrible when that happens - but consider it a learning opportunity. I prefer to ground my coil to the mains earth wire. I have a gounding bus on the base and everything connects to that. You can't be sure the copper pipes in your place are grounded properly. I have never had an issue connecting to the earth wire - that way I can run my coil at most venues without an issue.
Always used Poly, as do others, when sealing the coil. Don't think that's the problem. If it's arcing at the base, the bottom of your coil is probably not at ground potential. Lucky that's all you fried. Remember that taking off 40mm of windings is going increase your Fres significantly. Good luck.
OK, well i can see the water pipe going into the ground, so i thought that would be sweet. I was worried about using mains earth as others here have advised me its a bad idea and increases the risk of it damaging electrical appliances in the house. I am already still worried that its potentially striking mains cabling that is running in the basement already as its a short stud height.
Do you think it potentially could have damaged my IGBT's if it was not at ground potential? Im not worried about raising the frequency, i could afford to raise it if anything, the secondary is currently running about .6KHz lower than the primary can maxed out at 10 turns.
Registered Member #54503
Joined: Sun Feb 22 2015, 10:35PM
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 288
orac12 wrote ...
I had same problems, make sure mmc is connected to outer end of your coil and inverter connected to inside end. I also took one turn off the inner of my primary to lower the coupling. I then had to also raise the secondary another inch.
OK, thats interesting, ive got my MMC going to the centre and the other IGBT is going to the outer winding.
I couldnt find any info on this and its hard to decipher what way from the schematics ive seen.
Registered Member #54503
Joined: Sun Feb 22 2015, 10:35PM
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 288
Here is a video of my first high powered test. I think the streamers are currently capable of going much longer, its just that they want to keep hitting the steel lamp shade from the fluorescent lights in the basement, its not even grounded, yet the streamers are hitting that and not the fluorescent tube that is earthed. Bus voltage is around 240V and the OCD will kick in a fair bit depending on the tune played. Ive only set it to around 600A, but i may take it up to 750A soon and see how that plays out. At the end of the video you can hear it locking up on the same note, this is caused by RF from the coil i think, its messing up with the USB MIDI adaptor.
I wrapped tin foil round it and put in an aluminium box and that helps a little, but as you can see in the video, its still happening, any ideas?
Perhaps i will have to make a Faraday cage for the laptop.
How far do you typically have to keep your computer away?
I thought a 5M optical cable would have been plenty.
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Building my first DRSSTC - Updated thread...
