If you need assistance, please send an email to forum at 4hv dot org. To ensure your email is not marked as spam, please include the phrase "4hv help" in the subject line. You can also find assistance via IRC, at irc.shadowworld.net, room #hvcomm.
Support 4hv.org!
Donate:
4hv.org is hosted on a dedicated server. Unfortunately, this server costs and we rely on the help of site members to keep 4hv.org running. Please consider donating. We will place your name on the thanks list and you'll be helping to keep 4hv.org alive and free for everyone. Members whose names appear in red bold have donated recently. Green bold denotes those who have recently donated to keep the server carbon neutral.
Special Thanks To:
Aaron Holmes
Aaron Wheeler
Adam Horden
Alan Scrimgeour
Andre
Andrew Haynes
Anonymous000
asabase
Austin Weil
barney
Barry
Bert Hickman
Bill Kukowski
Blitzorn
Brandon Paradelas
Bruce Bowling
BubeeMike
Byong Park
Cesiumsponge
Chris F.
Chris Hooper
Corey Worthington
Derek Woodroffe
Dalus
Dan Strother
Daniel Davis
Daniel Uhrenholt
datasheetarchive
Dave Billington
Dave Marshall
David F.
Dennis Rogers
drelectrix
Dr. John Gudenas
Dr. Spark
E.TexasTesla
eastvoltresearch
Eirik Taylor
Erik Dyakov
Erlend^SE
Finn Hammer
Firebug24k
GalliumMan
Gary Peterson
George Slade
GhostNull
Gordon Mcknight
Graham Armitage
Grant
GreySoul
Henry H
IamSmooth
In memory of Leo Powning
Jacob Cash
James Howells
James Pawson
Jeff Greenfield
Jeff Thomas
Jesse Frost
Jim Mitchell
jlr134
Joe Mastroianni
John Forcina
John Oberg
John Willcutt
Jon Newcomb
klugesmith
Leslie Wright
Lutz Hoffman
Mads Barnkob
Martin King
Mats Karlsson
Matt Gibson
Matthew Guidry
mbd
Michael D'Angelo
Mikkel
mileswaldron
mister_rf
Neil Foster
Nick de Smith
Nick Soroka
nicklenorp
Nik
Norman Stanley
Patrick Coleman
Paul Brodie
Paul Jordan
Paul Montgomery
Ped
Peter Krogen
Peter Terren
PhilGood
Richard Feldman
Robert Bush
Royce Bailey
Scott Fusare
Scott Newman
smiffy
Stella
Steven Busic
Steve Conner
Steve Jones
Steve Ward
Sulaiman
Thomas Coyle
Thomas A. Wallace
Thomas W
Timo
Torch
Ulf Jonsson
vasil
Vaxian
vladi mazzilli
wastehl
Weston
William Kim
William N.
William Stehl
Wesley Venis
The aforementioned have contributed financially to the continuing triumph of 4hv.org. They are deserving of my most heartfelt thanks.
Registered Member #40981
Joined: Thu Nov 21 2013, 08:40AM
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 12
My DRSSTC is always tripping the fuse, but i've checked the wiring numerous times and ive probed almost everything no shorts or anything. It tripped the breaker once but that was due to a faulty IGBT, after replacing it, all 13 A fuses go off, any ideas guys?
Ill answer any questions about my coil asap if any
Registered Member #40981
Joined: Thu Nov 21 2013, 08:40AM
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 12
Ok so yeah I said I would give out any details you guys needed I just didn't know what to give.
Everything is almost based on Steve's schematics. Bridge: Driver: Grounding:
Rectifier used: GBPC2504W ( Having 220V input but somehow I find it rectifying to 200V for some reason, any ideas?) Datasheet:
Smoothing Capacitors: B43740A9108M000 (3 of them connected in parallel, giving 3000uF @ 400V ) Datasheet:
IGBTs: FGH80N60FDTU ( 80A 600V ) Datasheet:
Coil specifications:
-Tank Capacitor: 940C series ( 0.1uf, 2000v ) Total Rating: 0.2 uF @ 4kv ( A little bit worried this is too low but on a budget :/ )
-Secondary Radius: 2 inches | Height: 25 inches ( Approx 2000 winds using AWG 30 enamled Cu wire )
-Primary Radius: 5 inches ( Vertical Coil ) | Height: 3 inches ( Calculated 4.5-5 windings required for resonance, Standard 1/4" Cu Tube )
-Toroid: 5 inch minor, 14 inch major ( Used the cheap method of buying some Al air duct and using conductive tape to smooth it )
All the circuitry is wired as the above schematics and I've probed everything with my multimeter from taking apart the bridge to reassembling it there are no shorts whatsoever.
Here is a picture of the final build:
Most of my build progress that I documented is on that site. Hope you guys can help me!
Ps: Somehow the links don't work when I click on them ( some plugin error ) so just to be sure just copy them and paste it manually
Registered Member #1403
Joined: Tue Mar 18 2008, 06:05PM
Location: Denmark, Odense C
Posts: 1968
I fixed the links in your post, if you use the [_link_] tags, write your url where it says url and the link text inbetween, else just write the url and it turns into the green arrow by itself.
Looking at your bridge PCB I noticed there are some places with very short distance between DC+ and DC-. Are you sure there is not some place it can arc over? There is a small black spot on the side of the caps between the traces.
Are you using silpads on all the IGBTs?
Is there missing a IGBT? I see no legs at one of the spots for the switches in the picture of your bridge.
Registered Member #40981
Joined: Thu Nov 21 2013, 08:40AM
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 12
Hmm black spot can you point out where it is ? I can't seem to find it.
As for the IGBTs yes I have mica sheets on them and the heatsink themselves have the black insulation paint. And those photos of the bridge are only partially populated since I had a shortage of the IGBTs at the time.
Ive been thinking about the arcing, how much of a gap should I leave because the PCB wasn't really the best, I guess I'll use a cutter or mill and widen the gaps manually.
Though I suspect I wired my GDTs wrongly which can lead to wrong phases etc and cause shoot through? though I don't think this is the problem as I have powered up the bridge separate from the driver yet it the problem persists
Registered Member #40981
Joined: Thu Nov 21 2013, 08:40AM
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 12
I think the black spot is just my marker line outs and i have as according to schematic have zeners back to back and 2.1 ohm resistors on the gates. I'll try removing the washers and widening the gaps and see how it goes.
And yes it blows the fuse immediately after i give power to (with interrupter disconnected) it so I'm sure there is a short somewhere but I just cant seem to find it.
Place an ohm-meter across the DC rails, it should present a very high resistance. If it presents a low resistance or short, it is time to start removing components one by one until the resistance goes high.
I would remove the GDT first, then the IGBTs one by one, then the diodes, then the caps. If the board is bare and still showing low impedance, you know that it has to be at fault.
Registered Member #195
Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 08:27PM
Location: Berkeley, ca.
Posts: 1111
is this a solder bridge?
you could use a incandescent lamp or a series resistor in combination with a variac till you get a handle on it. If it were me I would go over the bridge closely to make shore the way you've laid out the bridge because it looks like a short. In bridges when one fet goes the other does.
This site is powered by e107, which is released under the GNU GPL License. All work on this site, except where otherwise noted, is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.5 License. By submitting any information to this site, you agree that anything submitted will be so licensed. Please read our Disclaimer and Policies page for information on your rights and responsibilities regarding this site.