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Registered Member #3700
Joined: Sat Feb 19 2011, 12:59PM
Location:
Posts: 107
Hi Zamboni,
In this project I think the best approach shall be separate the pendulum device from the light flash. Once we " dominate " and solve the flashing light issues them we may return our attention to the pendulum and integrate both into devices the battery.
Answering your questions: 1- Yes the spark gap is the best switch for discharge 500V from the cap / battery into the coil and diode. Note that the cap is connected in parallel with the battery all time.
2 - I try to understand your schematic and I am not sure it works. I will try post the schema showing what could work.
The diode could be a 1N4007, as tested and approved by Antonio's video. Two 1n4007 connected in series can handle 700V or more. during the switching the diode may comutate 2-10mA or more (for very short time).
I dont't think that the idea can work in this way. But your schematic shows something that was forgotten in the previous discussions. The swinging pendulum is not short-circuiting the battery, but just taking a small charge from one terminal of the battery and, after swinging, returning the charge to the other and taking a small opposite charge. A possible solution is then to increase the charge that goes to the pendulum by adding a capacitor connected to it (by a thin wire that can be its support), and make the charge pass through a "floating buck converter", as in the picture. Another capacitor is connected across the battery, that has the negative terminal grounded. The LED will flash when the pendulum touches the positive terminal.
Antonio, Your idea is quite intriguing. The only problem is that in my Device, nothing can touch the Swinger. The Swinger is held under a sapphire V jewel by a magnet. Any additional friction will stop it dead. I had thought about holding the needle directly on the magnet, but, because the Device rotates about 14 million times a year, the needle will "drill" into the magnet very quickly and cause the Device to stop. I had to add a sapphire bearing to reduce the friction enough to keep it going.
Thank you for you ideas. Matt has used your calculations in his circuit.
The idea to “dominate†the method, and then try to get it working on my Device is a good idea. To that end, I connected a 3.3NF 2Kv capacitor to both the battery and my “Plexiglas and screw†spark Gap. The small neon bulb was connected through the spark gap. The thought was that the battery would fill the capacitor, and then the capacitor would discharge through the spark gap into the neon bulb.
I figured that I would add the additional circuitry, once I verified that the concept was sound.
It worked. About every minute, I got a very visible flash of light. I, foolishly, used one of my “good†batteries (1700 volts) to test the theory. Turns out that even though the theory worked like a charm, the patient died.
I will explain, using my less than perfect knowledge of these batteries. As noted by another member, my dry pile batteries have about a 300 Giga-ohm internal resistance. The 3.3 NF capacitor has a substantially lower (though still very high) resistance. The end result was that, from the batteries point of view, the capacitor is a direct short. These batteries are extremely sensitive to direct shorts. I only had the battery connected for about 30 minutes. During that time, my 1700 volt battery Device drained down to a 1500 volt Device. Bummer…
I should have thought of this, I am painfully well aware of the sensitivity to “short circuiting†the battery.
I have researched “Glass capacitorsâ€, that have 100 Giga-ohm resistance, but even they would appear as a short circuit. My conclusion is that I can’t ever have a capacitor directly hooked to the battery.
Has anyone ever of a capacitor that has greater than 400 Giga-Ohms of resistance? It would be nice to have a Tera-ohm of resistance.
The idea of using the “transferred†4 Nano-amp charge that the Swinger moves from terminal to terminal is still viable as a concept. That concept requires a way of keeping the transferred charge in the capacitor. The negative terminal must remain at or very near zero. I am guessing that the leakage back through the diode would be large.
Without about a Tera-ohm of resistance, there can be no direct connection to the battery. Direct hook up to the battery will cause failure…quickly.
The only thing that I can safely connect to the battery, is an Electrostatic voltmeter. The one that I have has a 1 X 10^15 internal resistance. I have left batteries hooked to the meter for weeks, with no damage whatsoever.
I have enclosed pictures of the Electrostatic voltmeter, the setup that I used and the spark gap that I made.
Registered Member #4266
Joined: Fri Dec 16 2011, 03:15AM
Location:
Posts: 874
Hi Zamboni Can you recharge or remove salt production, by running for a short time ac voltage source throught it, not 100% sure it will need a high ac source thought?Maybe have two piles, when one fires the otherone fires reverse porilty into the tempary low first pile as a ac source, and vice verser. You could try instead of paper, titanium dioxide or caliucium copper titanate, so the pile capance matchs closer to the cap your trying to charge.
Nice work. May I suggest you to use some high-efficiency LEDs for your experiments?
I have built a test circuit, controllable current source, connected to some various high efficient LEDs and cranked the dial down to observe the minimum threshold I could see the LEDs light. It was as low as 10 nanoamps recorded by the camera, but in practice, in a complete dark room the light is quite visible with the naked eye down to 5 nanoamps. I have been home-testing the following LEDs:
WURTH ELEKTRONIK 151053GS03000 green, 10.000 mcd, 522nm KINGBRIGHT L-2523QBC-D X-BRIGHT blue, 2.300 mcd , 465nm AVAGO TECHNOLOGIES HLMP-EG1A-Z10DD red 21.000 mcd 630nm OPTOSUPPLY OSW54L5111P white 75.000 mcd CREE C503B-RAN-CY0B0AA1 red 23.500 mcd, 630nm
The LED's arrived today. I hooked them up and they work the same as the other LED's. There was no discernible difference. Still far too dim.
Hi Zamboni Can you recharge or remove salt production, by running for a short time ac voltage source throught it, not 100% sure it will need a high ac source thought?Maybe have two piles, when one fires the otherone fires reverse porilty into the tempary low first pile as a ac source, and vice verser. You could try instead of paper, titanium dioxide or caliucium copper titanate, so the pile capance matchs closer to the cap your trying to charge.
I actually tried Titanium dioxide several years back, the output was lower than what I am using now.
It may be possible to recharge them, but I think I will cut my losses and be happy with 1500 volts.
Registered Member #834
Joined: Tue Jun 12 2007, 10:57PM
Location: Brazil
Posts: 644
Normal commercial capacitors really don't have a very high parallel resistance, specially due to surface leakage. When I use them in experiments the first thing to do is to clean their exterior carefully, apply some wax, and dry everything with a hair dryer. You can make a Leyden jar capacitor using a HDPE plastic pot, that has very low leakage. Can these batteries can be recharged?
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Light LED with 4 nanoamps
