 Tesla Gun Duel
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HV Enthusiast
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Registered Member #15
Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
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Posts: 3068
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For the cooling you should look into what is called "pool boiling." This is commonly used in high voltage power supplies using fluorinert and is very effective in removing heat without having to pump fluorinert through manifolds or other transport mechanisms. The fluorinert resides enclosed in a sealed tank and as it boils, it transfers the heat from its "steam" to the sides of the container.
Fluorinert is expensive, and also extremely volatile. Leave a bottle of it with the cap accidently removed and it will be gone the next day!
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Phillip Slawinski
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Registered Member #1732
Joined: Thu Oct 02 2008, 02:34PM
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 112
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EasternVoltageResearch wrote ...
For the cooling you should look into what is called "pool boiling." This is commonly used in high voltage power supplies using fluorinert and is very effective in removing heat without having to pump fluorinert through manifolds or other transport mechanisms. The fluorinert resides enclosed in a sealed tank and as it boils, it transfers the heat from its "steam" to the sides of the container.
Fluorinert is expensive, and also extremely volatile. Leave a bottle of it with the cap accidently removed and it will be gone the next day!
Interesting idea, but I think in this case it would not be practical (or feasible for that matter!) to have a tank of Fluorinert in the backpack. The pack changes orientation frequently which could lead to some of the IGBTs not being fully submerged.
The cooling copper cooling block we used works well. The block has enough thermal capacitance to run for a few seconds at 25% duty (around 3500W input power). Once the block reaches 30ºC the cooling system kicks in for a few seconds and then the cycle can repeat. My experience is that my arm tends to wear out before any real heat gets in the system.
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