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Registered Member #2939
Joined: Fri Jun 25 2010, 04:25AM
Location:
Posts: 615
I don't see the problem - I've made boards using a Brother printer (copier/fax/printer actually). Also used HP and Sharp printers. What sort of transfer paper are you using? I use the mylar based blue stuff - by far the best in my experience.
Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
2Spoons wrote ...
I don't see the problem - I've made boards using a Brother printer (copier/fax/printer actually). Also used HP and Sharp printers. What sort of transfer paper are you using? I use the mylar based blue stuff - by far the best in my experience.
the later verisons of the early to mid 2000's (2004-ish) brother printers started using 370 degree F toner, which needed different temp and or pressure points to fuse to surfaces, compared to normal printers of every other type and maker. its widely known to be crap toner for PCB but quite good for text and graphics....
Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
Soldering went well, got 4 out of 4 leds to work. the low temp solder definately helped. im happy with the result, and it all works, ive made the measurements of V sub f and current to make sure ive got the LEDs bright enough without exceeding the datasheet absolute maximums. The purpose of these LEDs is to indicate the machine states of my drone while in flight, since we multi-rotor pilots dont really have any conventional flying instruments. I dont dare take my eyes off a machine in flight to look at a tablet or laptop screen, for human safety reasons.
test board pics...
I forgot Brother toner wont work for TT.
Drafting it all.
Crude surface mount board
Etching with HCL and Perioxide.
Measurments.
Measurements
F
G
H
lipo LiPo battery for drone. Should hover 1.5kg for 7+ minutes, out of ground effect.
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Low Melting Point (281F) Sn/Bi Solder for SMT.
