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TDU Microwave/Telsa prize

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Marko

Thu Aug 31 2006, 09:50PM

Registered Member #89 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145

Yes, depending on luck motor may have a winding with easily removable wire

You can use fan motor for gap and use wire from plate rotation motor, and etc..

Nik

Thu Aug 31 2006, 09:54PM

Registered Member #53 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 04:31AM
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 638

All good ideas but now thing about what you have to work with, there arent alot of materials you can use to make the rotary gap, or even a static one for that matter. This is going to be harder then i thought.

Roger

Thu Aug 31 2006, 10:18PM

Registered Member #221 Joined: Mon Feb 20 2006, 05:36PM
Location: Chillicothe Ohio
Posts: 12

Here is an idea for creative cheating. Use something like 240v at 120 cycles per sec. as a power source instead of 120v at 60 cycles per sec. This is assuming that your microwave oven was designed for 120v 60 cps. Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm thinking that if you increase both the input voltage and the line frequency to a MOT you can get higher voltage and more power out of it.

Roger

Marko

Thu Aug 31 2006, 10:26PM

Registered Member #89 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145

TDU didn't define the power source in rules, but it's somehow logical that anything more than mains is considered as a part of coil (otherwise someone couls just bring a MOT stack or something and dumb up everything)

Variac is a more of a tool than a coil part (I would say), like you are allowed to use your soldering iron or multimeter..

...

Thu Aug 31 2006, 10:53PM

Registered Member #56 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:02AM
Location: Southern Califorina, USA
Posts: 2445

I don't have time to even start to work on something like this, so I will offer my ideas:

Secondary:
Wire-out of the table rotation motor
Former- take the manual (might need to print it off the net unless you found a brand new one

) and roll up a page or 2
Top load-big ball of wadded up wire from the motor you took the secondary wire from

Primary:
Wire: Wire- from power cord or other wiring (I am gonna say you only need 1 turn in order to try to use that 1ufd tank cap
Former: the plastic in the front door

Tank cap- the voltage doubler cap (unless there are enough caps on the pcb's to make one)

Spark gap- 2 bolts from the oven sanded to have a conical shape with the fan blowing across it

Power source- the mot (might also want to add in the diode in series with it in case it can't charge the cap fast enough, but wintesla said 1.2uf would be perfect)

If the manual is too far of the stretch for TDU I would recommend you either try to make one out of the plastic on the front door (ala blackplasma style) or if you have one with the digital timer rip the plastic sticker off it and roll it up...

Simon Barsinister

Thu Aug 31 2006, 11:35PM

Registered Member #116 Joined: Fri Feb 10 2006, 03:19AM
Location: Erie Pa, USA
Posts: 29

In my dissection of many u-waves, I found a Amana radar-range that had a seperate filament transformer. That would have yielded plenty of wire for a secondary. So keep your eyes open for a 1980's vintage Amana.
Rich

Avalanche

Thu Aug 31 2006, 11:46PM

Registered Member #103 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:16PM
Location: Derby, UK
Posts: 845

I suppose you could wind a flat secondary, totally by hand, on the plate. It would probably take a couple of days

I might have to enter this now

Tesladownunder

Fri Sept 01 2006, 12:42AM

Registered Member #10 Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 09:45AM
Location: Bunbury, Australia
Posts: 1424

Roger wrote ...

Here is an idea for creative cheating. Use something like 240v at 120 cycles per sec. as a power source ...

Really this should run on mains only as a variac gives a 10% advantage and real cost in a zero cost project. So I have changed my mind about the variac. You don't need a variac to run a MO anyway.

... wrote ...

Former- take the manual (might need to print it off the net unless you found a brand new one

) and roll up a page or 2
If the manual is too far of the stretch for TDU I would recommend you either try to make one out of the plastic on the front door (ala blackplasma style) or if you have one with the digital timer rip the plastic sticker off it and roll it up...

Manual is not on, nor is the packing box etc. Just a plain empty MO that you found on a street corner.

Simon Barsinister wrote ...

In my dissection of many u-waves, I found a Amana radar-range that had a seperate filament transformer. That would have yielded plenty of wire for a secondary. So keep your eyes open for a 1980's vintage Amana.
Rich

I'm not sure that this gives a level playing field or is in the spirit of this competition. The usual domestic MO's seem remarkably similar and fair.

There are several sources of wire in an MO, and I think enough to make it work. I have already started winding my secondary and it is not on anything mentioned yet but is part of the MO that you rarely see.

No-one has really considered the tank cap properly. You are going to have to get your hands dirty - hint.

Peter

Nik

Fri Sept 01 2006, 02:02AM

Registered Member #53 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 04:31AM
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 638

my secondary wire snapped. I wonder if there is anything in the microwave that can be used to cover a splice...

Wilson

Fri Sept 01 2006, 05:19AM

Registered Member #78 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 11:27AM
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 133

Perhaps make a plate capacitor from the door and the metal sides? ohoh, i'm not sure if this is correct, but i think i recall reading somewhere that the magetron kinda acts like a capacitor?

The fan has lots of good wire...but i guess you'll want to use that for quenching. I think the secondary would be the most challenging....seeing as you have to make ur own former...

btw nik, you could try melting some wire insulation on the broken patch ;) or just strip a thin wire, and use the insulation as a sheath.

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