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Registered Member #2292
Joined: Fri Aug 14 2009, 05:33PM
Location: The Wild West AKA Arizona
Posts: 795
Not sure if you have seen my most recent post on the UD2.5 but you should add a pull down resistor on the AND diode fiber junction, unless of course you bypassed the network altogether for your Toshlink RX unit.
Yes.....resistor added! you can see it just between the led connector and the 74hc14! i also cuts out the traces for the OPF optic! now i have like a single optic reciever directly to 74hc14 and diode! more easy!
Hi everyone i recently resume the project for try to carry forward.
Finally i found the HFBR 2412 RX and TX module from USA (is hard to find it in Italy, and very expensive!), and i'm rebuilding the interrupter using Steve Conner suggestions! now i need forum help to solve a problem that i seems to have in the driver.
using 2 O-scope probe (initially i had only one), yesterday i tryed to visualize the 2 output signal togheter and something strange happens! The output signal are the same in both output and not opposite! Trying to find the problem, i start to go aback with the signal and i found a strange output from TL3116! Probing the two output i found that the out at pin 7 is rigth, but the negative one at pin 8 is not negate! seems that the TL3116 give out two identical out that cause the incongruent final output ad the mosfet! First of all, i supposed the chip was broken, but in the other driver assembled last week i found the same problem! so.....or i'm very unlucky or something that i can't interpret happen!
maybe the damage was found! the TL3116 seems to be broken, i test it with accidentaly with 5v and not 1V as OCT normally give out! i'm waiting for a new one chip for replace and test it!
Finally i got my driver to fully functionality, the problem was very idiot, only my Function generator that became crazy! buu
with the driver tested, i started to design and assemble the bridge, with the two Semikron 300 series.
one my friend found for me a perfect copper bar of 4mm thick that i cut and modelling (by hand) for connect the two IGBT, Bus capacitors, and snubber!
i'm planning to use 4 Italcond 10.000uF 450V series and parallel for obtain 10.000uF at 900V. For snubber, i have 4 1,5uF 1Kv caps. maybe to much, but, in Latin "Melius abundare quam deficere"!
i don't like to solder components without PCB so i decided to create a little one for gate protection bidirectional diode, resistor and discarge diode.
next step is to fix bus capacitors, rewind the definitive GDT, and try to test the waveforms!
Registered Member #15
Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
Looks great!
Just try to add in some passive and active bleed resistors across those capacitors for safety. 900V at those energy levels will kill!
A 20k-50k passive bleeder should be good across each capacitor (size the resistor accordingly) as a backup.
And as a primary discharge, you can use a normally closed relay (which is turned ON when input power is applied) to put a smaller value resistor directly across the bus to discharge the entire bus in several seconds when power is removed. I try to size the resistor to reduce voltage to less than 30V in 5 seconds. (I believe 2 seconds is the industry safety standard, but 5 seconds is enough generally as it will take you longer to walk to the coil than 5 seconds after power is removed)
Thanks for the suggestions EVR! Yes, is a very good idea to use a relay for self discharge the bus capacitors! you know? after have tested the capacitors 1 month ago, discharged it to 0, leave it one night short circuited......when i assembled the bridge last week, the capacitors have inside 16V of charge!!! Very scary!!!
now i'm waiting for your universal MIDI interrupter to arrive! And the large ferrite! the ferrite that i have is not to large for big primary cable!
The MMC is almost ready, 380nF at 5Kv. Maybe the voltage is undersized, but are made from very hi quality PP hi current capacitors, made for industrial resonant inverter. bah, is a test, if it fails or melt, i try to find a more bigger and strong caps!
oh, i'm thinking, i can use the same relay discharge system for start up slow charge! i need only a on-delay circuit. when i turn on the power, the relay stay engaged for few seconds slow charging the capacitors, and then....open! and you are ready for use! when the power is removed...it works as discharge system! what do you think about?
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