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this is what I meen by phasing. when you connect them the way you have it the case of one transformers will be at 2100vac which can flash to the mains if it arcs. keep the 3rd mot for a ballest but remove it if you want more power.
those caps should work fine and even better if it was a ac setup. I relise that you are trying to use a dublier to increase your voltage for your spark gap. When using dc a rotery spark gap might be necisary. your caps are a pulse caps. if you are willing try a ac setup reduce the amount of gaps you have till you get to start arcing. if you can't get it to start make some gaps with smaller spacing. Ither way it will take some tinkering
I believe I have that similar set up. If I make a better video of the transformer set up, would you be willing to tell me if it is accurate?
I actually run a rotary gap now, I find that over 40% on a 140v variac powering a 10krpm grinder not much happens, I think the electrodes are simply spinning too fast? I have tried the stationary gap using copper tubes in PVC (eventually had to go to wood as the PVC melted fast, and the wood was not much better, it would catch fire fast). I find the RSG to be easier to adjust. I am more than happy to try anything you tell me to do. Just tell me what to build and I will do my best to deliver. My problem shows constantly to be heat. Up until the RSG I have melted or set most things on fire that I have tried. I even discolored the copper pipe used from the heat and because it burned the wood the bolts got loose and everything came out of alignment. But again, I am happy to try anything lol. Next time I am able to do some coiling I will experiment with different tap points to see if the coil is, in fact, tuned. I covered my topload in Al tape, it seems that may not have been a good idea as the tape underside is not conductive.. This I found out AFTER I finished the tape job. But this was only testing at whatever voltage my multimeter reads for continuity, I figure at many thousand volts it wont matter..
Registered Member #195
Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 08:27PM
Location: Berkeley, ca.
Posts: 1111
Try this if you are interested, try a rotery gap or even a point gap. To tune adjust the caps you have by puting them in series to adjust capacitance when they are in series the capacitance will divide evenly between them an din parallel they will multiply capacitance if you want something refined you can put 2 in parallel and two seriesed ones in parallel so if one is .1uf you should end up with .25uf. this is so you can refine the resonance of the pimary circuit to closer mach the seondary resonance.
Try this if you are interested, try a rotery gap or even a point gap. To tune adjust the caps you have by puting them in series to adjust capacitance when they are in series the capacitance will divide evenly between them an din parallel they will multiply capacitance if you want something refined you can put 2 in parallel and two seriesed ones in parallel so if one is .1uf you should end up with .25uf. this is so you can refine the resonance of the pimary circuit to closer mach the seondary resonance.
Sorry it has been a while since I responded :/ been crazy busy which is hopefully a good thing, we will see ha ha..
Anyways, I see the inductors but they are apparently there for the protection of the transformers which in my mind do not need any protection whatsoever. Do they serve a different functional purpose here?
Also I am finding that I am destroying my wires that go from the power supply to the primary, I presume the HV is breaking down the insulation?
As for the inductors, if they are necessary for some sort of resonance thing, is there a way to make them out of 24awg wire instead? I have a great deal of it in stock from the secondary unless magnet wire is not necessary and in that case i am sure I can find 26 somewhere in the house to use. Never having built inductors like this before I am not sure as to what their purpose is.
Went down to 50nf and 25nf HOLY HELL over double length at 50 and 25 saw marginal improvements but arcs werent as strong so I prefer 50. Seems like it may be time to call up CDE about some different caps. My big boys deserve a different home I think. Video to follow soon!
Registered Member #195
Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 08:27PM
Location: Berkeley, ca.
Posts: 1111
The inductors intension is to protect the transformers fron high voltage kick back that is generated from the tesla primary. How long of sparks did you get? it sounds you are having a hard time with those caps is that true? do you have any pictures
The inductors intension is to protect the transformers fron high voltage kick back that is generated from the tesla primary. How long of sparks did you get? it sounds you are having a hard time with those caps is that true? do you have any pictures
Man those MOT's are freaking bullet proof, they did get a bit warm on the core, maybe 100 on an 80 degree night?
Sparks were about 2ft, thick at 50nf with 4.3 turns. At 3 caps in series which I think is 33nf no? arcs were a bit longer, maybe an inch but they were thin and it was hard to get the RSG to catch initially. I decided on 50 to be best as it caught almost immediately and it can run at high or low BPS.
The caps are working great for what they are. but at 100nf a piece they are simply too big and too expensive for a project like this. For me to use 2 of them here I feel would be a waste of a damn good capacitor. I could easily contact CDE and get the MMC caps most guys use, the 942 series if I am correct? but I do really like these especially if I half wave double the coil (which I want to do at some point) as they can easily handle the load.
I do not have any pictures of the coil completed I believe, I will do my best to remember in the morning to get some pictures for you. Anything in particular that you would be looking for?
Registered Member #195
Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 08:27PM
Location: Berkeley, ca.
Posts: 1111
if you want to try new capasitors you could try thease in a series parallel configuration.they are relitvly afordable if they selfe desruct
I have not tried this but others have.
you could also replace your grinder weal with a peace of lexan plastic. be carfull about your setup with the grinder one miss revolution it could become a missle
also hold onto those caps if you want to do teslas
if you want to try new capasitors you could try thease in a series parallel configuration.they are relitvly afordable if they selfe desruct
I have not tried this but others have.
you could also replace your grinder weal with a peace of lexan plastic. be carfull about your setup with the grinder one miss revolution it could become a missle
also hold onto those caps if you want to do teslas
While nice caps those are large in capacitance, 2.2uf if I am correct and I feel like I would need a bunch to get a good enough result.
I do plan on replacing it. I recently got access to an 80watt laser cutter (hopefully I will be able to use it) and I want to make a new rotor that way, and engrave it, well, because I can.. The grinder wheel is surprisingly good, I left plenty of material and my holes are within 1/64th of an inch from perfect. It does have some odd harmonics, but thats fine for now, it is temporary. I have tested it to be safe (full 10k rpm for a minute surrounded by granite blast shields) and I dont stand anywhere near it when testing anyways. If I cannot get the lexan piece I will probably have to keep the grinder wheel for now as while I am accurate with a drill press, I am no CNC laser cutter.
those caps are 2200pf or .0022uf and 6 bucks for 25 isn't to bad
You are correct, sorry about that, thought the p was an n.. not sure why. I will try less capacitance tonight with the caps I have and see where that goes. 4 caps in series tonight. It seems that the lower the capacitance the closer I have to put the electrodes on the RSG to a point where the slight off balance in it causes the electrodes to collide.
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Dual MOT doubler woes
