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Registered Member #3900
Joined: Thu May 19 2011, 08:28PM
Location:
Posts: 600
Deodanth wrote ...
Just to be clear, I said on the HEATSINK because in EVR's kit they are attached to a big aluminum heatsink and then screwed to the board. I removed them from the board, but didnt want to unscrew them from the heatsink and peel it off of the heatsink paste.
The upside of that type of package is that you have electrical isolation from the thermal conductor. If you have any continuity between a pin and the heatsink while nothing else is connected, then toss that igbt away. You only need to remove the igbt if you have a different igbt type that has electrical contact between the collector and thermal contact. It's ok to test that type of igbt on a heatsink because of that built in ceramic isolation layer between the die and the pad.
They tend to blow in pairs, so while the other halfbridge should be fine, it's recommended to replace those as well. If EVR's design uses just a single half bridge, then you'll need to replace both devices anyways.
Registered Member #7267
Joined: Tue Oct 16 2012, 12:16AM
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 407
Yes the micro brute uses just one half bridge section (im pretty sure) so both igbt's will most likely be dead. But on the offchance that only one blew, it's still a good idea to replace them both, and just save the good one as a backup
Registered Member #9471
Joined: Thu Jan 10 2013, 09:17PM
Location: (39.41895551215511, -76.29627227783203) Grid square:FM19UK
Posts: 23
Physics Junkie wrote ...
Yes the micro brute uses just one half bridge section (im pretty sure) so both igbt's will most likely be dead. But on the offchance that only one blew, it's still a good idea to replace them both, and just save the good one as a backup
I splurged and bought 4 from Digi-key with overnight Fedex - should be here tomorrow. You guys have expensive hobbies! Wish us luck I went and had a talk with Liams science teacher this afternoon. The project is due Thursday and if there is anything else wrong other than the IGBTs I think I'm SOL. Teach said that as long as Liam can explain the project, the actual demo is not completely necessary. "Scientists have expirament failures all the time." he said.
Still - after investing hundreds in the project, I dont want to let it beat me.
Registered Member #9471
Joined: Thu Jan 10 2013, 09:17PM
Location: (39.41895551215511, -76.29627227783203) Grid square:FM19UK
Posts: 23
Physics Junkie wrote ...
If you can, remove all of the IGBT'S, check continuity between gate-emitter and collector-emitter and gate-collector on all of them. There should not be any continuity between all these pins, except for the two emitters,
I just ran the meter across all of them and I have contiuity on all of them gate - collector, Gate- emitter, etc. I hope thats all thats wrong
Physics Junkie wrote ... if this is confusing, i have a few blown IGBT's i can demonstrate this test for you if it helps. Inspect the secondary again to make sure that the damaged area is not broken again
I think its ok. The scorch looks superficial and there is continuity from top to bottom of coil. on the backup plan I found a local source for 30AWG magnet wire and they have a spool twice the size of the one that came with the kit. I think I'll go drop another $25 on that on my way home from work tomorrow.
Pray to your Gods for me that everything goes smoothly this time I really wish one of you guys lived in Maryland.
Registered Member #7267
Joined: Tue Oct 16 2012, 12:16AM
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 407
Deodanth wrote ...
I splurged and bought 4 from Digi-key with overnight Fedex - should be here tomorrow. You guys have expensive hobbies!
Still - after investing hundreds in the project, I dont want to let it beat me.
Tell me about it... i was lucky to get a batch of 12 from mouser for $16 a piece. I'm the same way, don't even want to think about how much I've put in my current DRSSTC build but im not giving up for nothing. Also learning a lot too!
Deodanth wrote ...
If you can, remove all of the IGBT'S, check continuity between gate-emitter and collector-emitter and gate-collector on all of them. There should not be any continuity between all these pins, except for the two emitters,[/quote1363120254] I just ran the meter across all of them and I have contiuity on all of them gate - collector, Gate- emitter, etc. I hope thats all thats wrong
I think its ok. The scorch looks superficial and there is continuity from top to bottom of coil. on the backup plan I found a local source for 30AWG magnet wire and they have a spool twice the size of the one that came with the kit. I think I'll go drop another $25 on that on my way home from work tomorrow.
Pray to your Gods for me that everything goes smoothly this time I really wish one of you guys lived in Maryland.
That's a safe way to go. Looking back on how many of those little 1.5lb spools I bought, I should have just bought one of those giant 15lb spools.
Good luck though. Let us know how it turns and out. If you get it working, probably would be a good idea to run the coil NOT at full power just for the presentation.. Show us some pics too!
Registered Member #3900
Joined: Thu May 19 2011, 08:28PM
Location:
Posts: 600
I don't know whether you did or not the first time, but putting a couple layers of polyurethane over the secondary seals it up both so it holds together under thermal expansion/contraction and serves as a bit of a dielectric. It'll help a LOT if you haven't already. also, a strike rail and a y capacitor from mains - to earth both help immensely when it comes to primary strikes.
Registered Member #9471
Joined: Thu Jan 10 2013, 09:17PM
Location: (39.41895551215511, -76.29627227783203) Grid square:FM19UK
Posts: 23
ben123324 wrote ...
I don't know whether you did or not the first time, but putting a couple layers of polyurethane over the secondary seals it up both so it holds together under thermal expansion/contraction and serves as a bit of a dielectric. It'll help a LOT if you haven't already. also, a strike rail and a y capacitor from mains - to earth both help immensely when it comes to primary strikes.
I Did spray it which I think might be why I'm ok right now with the current secondary coil. I might spray it again for added measure.
Registered Member #3900
Joined: Thu May 19 2011, 08:28PM
Location:
Posts: 600
Nice! looks good! just a pointer: keeping tension with the wire with one hand and using a finger on the other hand to press one turn against the previous greatly helps with the gaps in the wire.
And don't be afraid to run a coil of that size indoors, unless it hits a gas tank, there's no danger of fire(assuming you're attending it at all times). The spark may be hot, but it only lasts a few millionths of a second, and as you probably know, power = energy/time.
And I used to use the same soldering iron! I use a Weller temp controlled one now so i can do smd parts, but that's a good iron.
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